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Discussion Starter #1
I have seen the videos and a light bar looks to throw out several times more light then the OEM twin halogens. Night vs Day is the difference.

I will be happy with a single bar about 12 inches.

The one thing that is a must is a nice clean install. I cringe at the thought of a bunch of extra wires all bound up, and shoved into an available space. So some extra electrical connections will be essential as I cut every wire to a proper length.

Nilight 12" bar --> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE46ZWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Nilight Wiring Harness --> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZPX32N/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

And I like the idea of a better switch, metal that I can wire to glow when off or on in some combination.
The better switch --> Amazon.com: HiLetgo Latching Pushbutton Switch 16mm 5/8" 12V-24V 5A Power Angel Eye LED Light Metal Toggle Switch with Wire Socket Plug: Industrial & Scientific

I am thinking it would be nice to use this removable button for the switch. If it is 19mm or 16mm the "better switch should just pop in, no drilling

CIMG4561 (1024x768).jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I am fishing for ideas or confirmation that this is the way to go. Years and years ago I mounted some lights on a roll bar on a 1/2 ton Chevy, and I have no memory of what I did. I probably did it wrong (no relay), but it worked.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm like you, I always do extra clean installs.
All you need is a wiring harness with a light switch!

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I am still doing the research. Just about there. I wish I had done this a month ago. Subzero weather is a coming this weekend, and after that probably more of the same. Can't work for long in the garage without gloves.
 

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You're 100% on the right track, Montana. Adding a supplemental light bar is super basic. Power, relay, switch, done.

Think of taking advantage of existing wiring harness loom/routing on the bike, to hide your auxillary wiring. Has anyone run their light bar harness through the factory metal tubular rack? That'd be stealth yeah
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You're 100% on the right track, Montana. Adding a supplemental light bar is super basic. Power, relay, switch, done.

Think of taking advantage of existing wiring harness loom/routing on the bike, to hide your auxillary wiring. Has anyone run their light bar harness through the factory metal tubular rack? That'd be stealth yeah
This is beginning to look more and more like a spring/April job. Engine Oil, gear oil, front and back differential, aluminum shifter bracket, and now the light bar.

I am soon to be logging more hours working on this machine, then I have ridden it. :geek:

Just waiting on snow, then this quad will be a daily rider. (y)
 

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Having just installed a light bar on my machine, I'm gonna say I had a tough time taking a drill to the panel to mount a switch. I found a handlebar mounted switch that fit the bill and am soooo happy I didn't have to drill. Also I went with a single row light bar that fit under the rack quite nicely, while leaving the rack fully functional. I put a post up on it a month or so ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Having just installed a light bar on my machine, I'm gonna say I had a tough time taking a drill to the panel to mount a switch. I found a handlebar mounted switch that fit the bill and am soooo happy I didn't have to drill. Also I went with a single row light bar that fit under the rack quite nicely, while leaving the rack fully functional. I put a post up on it a month or so ago.
I agree. That little button just beneath the instrument panel is key for me going ahead. If a cool switch fits nicely in there and behind it is enough room for the body of the switch then it is a GO.
 

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Guy you are over thinking this. You can get a nice 12" bar, wire harness and switch off Amazon for $60. I ran the 12" auxbeam on my 570 for 2 1/2 yrs, 3000 miles and a lot of night riding and it worked awesome. Should take you only a hour from start to finish to install. The thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Guy you are over thinking this. You can get a nice 12" bar, wire harness and switch off Amazon for $60. I ran the 12" auxbeam on my 570 for 2 1/2 yrs, 3000 miles and a lot of night riding and it worked awesome. Should take you only a hour from start to finish to install. The thing.
Who is over thinking "this"? $30 for what I listed above. Another $6 if I upgrade the switch. A light bar is very affordable. The only thing that poses a challenge is doing a clean install. A quick and dirty install, is almost no time at all.
 

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Having an LED lightbar made all the difference in night time riding, I get home after dark a lot and the LED light 12 inch bar helps big time. I ran the wiring harness down through the rack under the panels and fed my wires through existing areas, keeping in mind you don’t want the wires to rub on other engine components and remember to use lots of zip ties to keep the harness looking clean inside the panels. The lightbar also doesn’t kill my engines voltage while it’s running so an FYI nothing but positives having one.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Key on only activation.


And handlebar on/off switch seems more attractive too.

These handlebar switches are offered in double and triple switches also. Might think about a rear safety strobe light for night plowing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have been watching some Light Bar installs on YouTube, and see people run the power wires all the way back to the battery. It occurred to me that I did that not to long ago. Rather then run more wires along the same route, better to take the power right from the winch solenoid, which is a short distance from the fuse box, where ideally I would like all the electronics to be located.

Now I am thinking of just making my own harness. I do like having a fuse built right into the 12V40A Relays, which I don't see available in prebuilt readily available harnesses.
 

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Check out what Kusa posted,complete original wiring"explained", even highlighted the most important.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
All good, but knifing into pre-existing wire bundles is not something I like to do. With a light bar there is little reason to piggy back on existing circuitry. Once you get power it can all be stand alone. The only exception would be to tie it all into the highbeam switch. I have kinda nixed that idea.
 

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All good, but knifing into pre-existing wire bundles is not something I like to do. With a light bar there is little reason to piggy back on existing circuitry. Once you get power it can all be stand alone. The only exception would be to tie it all into the highbeam switch. I have kinda nixed that idea.
I understand that,but Kusa shows original auxiliary connectors,so no need to split into wirings.
Look again,i think that this is really the 100% "professional " way to go.
(But i cheated as you can see🙈)
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I am pretty sure that DC5 is the auxilary connection used for the winch and remote winch switch. It is pretty nice and can be used over and over again, in a daisy-chain fashion with this connection. --> Amazon.com: Aokus 1pcs for Maverick X3 Accessory Wiring Pigtail for Can Am Maverick X3: Automotive

I was going to go this route, but it seems that is not necessary as the low amp line to the on/off switch can come from the relay.

DC6 is another more general connection, but not of use to me in this case.

At least that is what I currently understand.
 
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