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Discussion Starter #1
ImageUploadedByOff-Road Forums1464636505.506339.jpg
These bolts/nut was so loose the sway bar would rattle around.
I think they use child labour in Mexico. They can't tighten bolts enough. Atv is a 2016....
I can deal with a few of can am problems. No bike is perfect but I hope my safety isn't compromised doing 100k...
 

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That the torque for those bolts I see?? It's more pointing at the zerk...
Yes, that's the torque for the bolts. You wouldn't torque a zerk that high or it would strip out.
It shows to use new nuts, but I would torque them up and see if they loosen first.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That the torque for those bolts I see?? It's more pointing at the zerk...
Yes, that's the torque for the bolts. You wouldn't torque a zerk that high or it would strip out.
It shows to use new nuts, but I would torque them up and see if they loosen first.

Actually check this out.... It is the zerk lbf•in.
As per circled.... It's •in though ImageUploadedByOff-Road Forums1464648904.862460.jpg
 

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Actually check this out.... It is the zerk lbf•in.
Wow, I totally missed that it was inch pounds.:0s0_th_doh:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wow I'm a donkey .... Are these the famous loose bolts ?? I've been checking the wrong ones. I tightened these and it rides like a dream with no more clacking at all!! Damn I'm happy.
 

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when I rock mine from side to side it snaps maybe that's the trouble with mine too
 

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Good luck trying to torque the bolts on the rear sway bar. I had to use the two wrench method on some. Took side panels off and it help. They are very hard to get at. Put some blue lock- tight so they can't come loose, but still can be removed if needed. Even after I installed new bushings from Garage Products the bolts still came loose, so I added the blue lock-tight. I also mark nut and end of bolt so I can tell if they move. Did 60 mile ride on weekend and no movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the tip. I just got my bushings in the mail. Did you use a torque wrench or just snugged em up?
 

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I don't have a small torque wrench, so I snugged them up. If you remove the floor boards it would also open things up, but I didn't want to go there. Also if you got the new blue rear bushings, you will see you just coat them with SYNTHETIC grease and install. I phoned John from Garage Products with some questions and he was very helpful.
 

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My 2016 Renegade swaybar bolts were also loose makin that clunking sound. Tightend them up. Seems to be god to go now. Gotta go out and beat on it some and see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Do you really have to remove the muffler as per manual to get the sway bar out to change the bushings ?? I'm just reading things over before starting
 

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I didn't have to remove muffler. You don't have to take out sway bar to change bushings. Sway bar will slide to one side, do one side at a time. Also remove the sway bar links and get them out of your way. They can be done later when sway bar is back in its place.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thread update ....
So it seems the best I can get is a few thousand klms before aftermarket bushings have slop too. Maybe a bit of a design flaw? Or is this typical on atvs? I've never had a sway arm on a quad before.
Also I bet many are driving around with plenty of slop also. So I wonder how much ok really. Of course the more there is it must be hard on the trailing arm link bushings of course....
Ignorance would be bliss with friggin things like this!
 

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Phone John at Garage Products, maybe he can help. Some of his first blue rear bushings were not 100%. Talk to John and see if you got some bad ones.
 

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The snappin you hear is the bolts circled above.
 
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