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Machine starts up and then dies after initial movement

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1.9K views 5 replies 2 participants last post by  Chief...  
#1 ·
Just finished moose season here in Alaska and my 2018/6x6/1000cc Outlander has thrown me for a loop on a weird problem. I would start it up in the morning and either put it in reverse or low to pull away from the cabin or at my hunting spot location and it would start up, but when I would shift out of that gear (P/R/L/N) and go to a new selection and take my thumb off the throttle and start to shift, it would die. Then it would turn over forever and not even try to start. Eventually while troubleshooting in the field, I decided that when it died i would let the LED screen go blank and it would start right up and I wouldn't have any issues until it sat for awhile. But I have two of these machines (identical) and for kicks I swapped gas caps, but I was grasping at straws and didn't that the cap would do anything.

This machine had the gearbox side u-joint replace in the spring and as anyone who has done this, I had to tear the machine apart to replace (separate gearbox and engine and remove the gearbox and loosen the engine mount bolts. So a lot of stuff was removed to facilitate this. i will look it over again to see if everything is installed right and I also had a fuel pump blowing fuses and changed out the pump tree assembly....just tell the forum everything that has happened with this machine. If everything looks good, I am going to be looking at the TPS (throttle position sensor)

But I wanted to throw this out to the forum for anyone that has went thru this. The local service manager was even scratching his head. Appreciate anyone's opinion...thanks

2018 Can Am 1000cc
5000 miles
 
#2 ·
When I have problems after make repairs like you described, I usually assume that the new problem has to be associated with what I had just done, so yes go back and ensure that every thing was put back together correctly.
Was the fuel pump blowing fuses before you worked on the u-joint?

I keep thinking that it may have something to do with your fuel pump. When you 1st turn on your key, the fuel pump primes (you can hear it running), when you try to start it again after it dies, do you hear the pump running? When you let the LED screen go blank and try it again, do you hear the pump running?
 
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#3 ·
Hi Chief, was wondering how you've been doing. The u-joint that broke caused the shaft to flail around before I could get it stopped last Fall (2023) and it tore up the bottom of the gas tank (didn't rupture, but really dug into the plastic. I had the Eagle River dealer change out the tank and swap over the gas tank parts, (I did all the other repairs). First ride out on the season (July) is when I got the problem with the fuel pump blowing the fuse and I changed the unit myself...seemed pretty straight forward and had no problems.

I hear the pump prime when i bump the starter. I really didn't listen for the pump on the 2nd restart after i let the system shutdown and reset, because is starts so quick I just pressed on with my destination. I know for sure I hear it on the first start up and it does start and idle just fine, it is when I start moving and then let off the throttle to shift is when it dies and won't start up. Then I let the system reset and starts up and I don't have the problem until I shut it down for awhile (3-4 hours) and it didn't do it everyday, maybe every other day or sometimes twice a day. So it was sporadic.
 
#4 ·
Yeah, being an intermittent problem really makes it hard to pin point what is happening.

Going back and checking to see everything was put back together correctly (what you did and what Team CC did), is a start. Then I think I would check the fuel pressure (leaving it on and shifting to see the reading when it dies.

Have you tried to pull the codes? As you know, it will only pull up active codes, so if you don't get anything at first, you may have to pull codes when it actually happens.

Another thing is to check all your connections, paying attention to the pins for any corrosion.
 
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#6 ·
Yeah, the nice thing about having a diagnostic tool would be that it would pull both active and non-active codes, but I would try the procedures for pulling it yourself first and then if that didn't work, then I would try to duplicate the problem and when that happened I would try the procedure again for pulling the codes yourself.

But having those tools they provide you a lot more than just the ability to pull codes, and if your in it for the long haul it might be well worth your investment.
 
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