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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was riding my 2006 800 max and it shut down on me smell of oil like maybe it was hot but shouldn't have been tried to start wouldn't let sit for few minutes and it started sounds like something is rattling around in the motor hardly had any power made it the 1/4 mile back to house it will start and idle I haven't reved it up and haven't let it run very long it has 8300 miles and 495 hours had it almost a year runs like a new one but something is rattling around in the motor I'm getting ready to tear into it just wondering if any one might have an idea the problem
 

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2016 Outlander Max XT 650
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I was riding my 2006 800 max and it shut down on me smell of oil like maybe it was hot but shouldn't have been tried to start wouldn't let sit for few minutes and it started sounds like something is rattling around in the motor hardly had any power made it the 1/4 mile back to house it will start and idle I haven't reved it up and haven't let it run very long it has 8300 miles and 495 hours had it almost a year runs like a new one but something is rattling around in the motor I'm getting ready to tear into it just wondering if any one might have an idea the problem
Sorry to hear that. I would say start by removing the valve covers and taking a look. Check your oil dipstick (and oil filter) as well to see if there are any metal shavings already.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
oil looks good on dip stick haven't pilled drain plug yet . could the water pump have went out could that be the noise I'm hearing. it starts up fine don't let it run for very long I don't know pulling plastic off going to tear into it noise is coming from bottom of the motor
 

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Regular Joe
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Those very early V-twins unfortunately were known to suffer from bottom end bearing and timing chain guides issues. I hope I'm wrong, but I wouldn't be surprised in the least if you're gonna find a new crank and timing components to be the remedy.

There are more than a few threads on here about those early early V-twins:


oh, slim chance the water pump is making any noise, it's a plastic impeller.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well I feel that you're probably right I just wanted to hear it from one else . but in it's defence it does have 8300 miles I probably put 3000 on it the guy that bought it new raced it in mud bogs but I'm going to find out for sure have plastic off waiting on friend of mine with little more knowledge about motors than me and let you guys know
 

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Yeah, not that it helps, but at 8000+ miles, some of which were mud bog races, it's past due for overhaul
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok so pulled valve cover on front head timing chain was really loose and it jumped time got everything back in time adjusted valves tighten chain tensioner started up ran fine rattling noise was gone thier is a slight tick in the motor but running good revs up. so what do you think I should do put the plastic's back on and ride or is thier other things I should check. how much to rebuild it $600 to 800 or more?
 

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Regular Joe
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Well..... guess that's kinda up to you

If you want to look at it from the lens of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", you at a minimum should change out the timing chains and guides, for continued run time.

If it's running fine, y'know, good power, no piston slap or bottom end issues, maybe don't go into the crankcase yet. Your call
 
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At least replace chains and guides as @BombardierBomb said. Also there should be an allen bolt (not the regular drain bolt) that you can remove. If that is filled with plastic you will need to split the cases to clean the oil pump screen. If there is just a little plastic you can just do chains and guides and should be good to go.

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I would do a compression and especially a leakdown test. Some times a tooth off causes no issues on other times the valves are hitting the piston and can bend losing valve seal. If compression and leakdown are good then as bomb mentioned change out the cam chains, sliders and tensioners. something caused the failure if you do not fix the cause it is likely to happen again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was kinda thinking the same thing about changing the chains and guides but the guides don't look all chewed up they have been replaced before and the cam is not stock I guess the original owner put bigger cam in. I pulled cover off the rear cylinder everything is good and tight. I've have another outlander to ride so I'm going to check into replacing the cam chains and guide I don't know if I need to mess with the valves and and stuff I'm not a mechanic I can change some parts and do simple stuff if it comes to spliting the case that is way over my head. anyhow I appreciate all the help. and can am does make a very powerful quad the torque on these 800s is crazy that is what sold me on them but they are so over complicated I miss my 350 two stroke and I have been thinking about going back to the Japanese side
 

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Funny different applications make, cam chains only lasting 8300 miles would be considered a major failure on street/race bikes. I wonder if it is the start stop cycles or simply too low quality chains chosen.
 

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Well, imho, mileage on an ATV is somewhat comparable to like, dog years, where it's not a 1:1 ratio.

Sure, some of 'em can clock relatively easy highway miles, but I'd say that's the exception, not the norm.
 

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No doubt!
looking at the use and abuse some of mine suffered I would say it is a hard thankless life.

That said, chains should be automatically adjusted and I see nothing different in the loads or design over motorcycles. In fact more motorcycles run higher rpms (getting close to 18,000rpm) and others live at atv low rpms (5000-6000 range) both typically see tens of thousands of miles before wearing. It might simply be price point where they do not expect to see high miles and do not want to waste money on parts that should outlast the rest of the machine.

Other parts are the sprocket, tensioner and slider quality. weakest link wears the rest prematurely so it could be the other components letting down a otherwise good chain. Not that I expect the need to "upgrade" but then I am new to ATV's and am still very much learning, will be for a while more. Thanks for the heads up.
 

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That said, cam chains should be automatically adjusted and I see nothing different in the loads or design over motorcycles. In fact more motorcycles run higher rpms (getting close to 18,000rpm) and others live at atv low rpms (5000-6000 range) both typically see tens of thousands of miles before wearing.
I agree. I have been conditioned by years of experience with Japanese sports motorcycles, mostly Kawasaki and Suzuki. Flogged my GSXR for 73000 kms and it never required anything but tires, drive chains and sprockets. The engine was amazingly reliable. The Rotax is not in the same class. Maybe they should run a team in MotoGP for development purposes.
 

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I agree. I have been conditioned by years of experience with Japanese sports motorcycles, mostly Kawasaki and Suzuki. Flogged my GSXR for 73000 kms and it never required anything but tires, drive chains and sprockets. The engine was amazingly reliable. The Rotax is not in the same class. Maybe they should run a team in MotoGP for development purposes.
This is a completely different scenario. Rotaxs in spyders go over 100000 fairly easily from what I have seen on forums.

I have seen 900 rangers with 20000 miles and chain and guides in good condition. I have seen others that dusted the motor, and the chains and guides were trash. It is hard to keep dust out of an off road engine and they usually have been ran a little hot or overheated a few times because a radiator was plugged. They are usually neglected on oil changes too.

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You cannot compare a road bike motor with a quad. A lot of quads are thrashed, radiators get filed with mud, and motors often overheated. Water and dust often enters parts of the motors. And to top it off quads are often not maintained due to the work they do, rather than on Kms or time. Keep the oil clean and the motor run at the right parameters. A well maintained can-am will do high kms without major problems if maintained right.
 

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So it sounds like it is the owners who cause the problems... lol
I can totally see that as it is common to hear threads on...
buying cheaper oil not better oil.
machines only being serviced when they break, the old " I think it needs a tune up it stopped running"
The heat surely is a issue but mostly effecting the oil used, otherwise the engine growth would mostly show up in bad engine seal and burnt oil. Note if you are burning up your oil try a different oil.
Water I could see diluting your oil and losing protection but I would think that would show up elsewhere first.
I am not sure how you would get dust or mud inside your cases except through crankcase vents that are not sealed. That would make the most sense if someone submerged a machine in mud and sucked the mud into the lower end. Of course at that point you are running lapping compound through your whole motor so I would expect the damage throughout .

It would be interesting to know the percentage of failures after submerging and not doing a good flush afterwards.
 

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the guy that bought it new raced it in mud bogs
I guess the original owner put bigger cam in.
Since this is not 'normal' treatment so there is no comparison of reliability possible with other quads or motorcycles in general. My 450 has been totally reliable through some fairly rough but not extreme riding.
 
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