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Discussion Starter #1
So after waiting 2 weeks to get my diff situation fixed I,m having more electrical problems. I noticed while I was waiting on the diff I had some wires messed up going into the fuse box so I cut open the tubing, aped over some wires that were missing insulation, used wire caps to join back some broken wires. And everything worked fine. Until I took it riding yesterday and towards the end of the day it just shut off. I got it started, moved about 10 feet and then it shut off again. luckily i wasn't in any if the deep water when this happened so I drug it onto high ground and unhooked the battery, cleaned/dried the connections, jiggled some of my crummy electrical connections and it started up and ran for a little bit, but when I tried driving it was skipping really bad. It sounded exactly what it sounds like in reverse without pushing the over ride. So I fiddled with the battery some more, charged it over night, now it wont even try to start. The dash would just flicker but I got it to where it will light up like normal but the fuel pump wont prime nor will it attempt to turn over
 

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Discussion Starter #2
one more thing. Not sure if this is relevant or not. But the dash is always saying its in park
 

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Sorry to hear of your troubles. These wire caps, were they crimp style or twist on.

Wouldn't recommend the twist style in a mobile application, good recipe for an intermittent connection.

Crimp style connectors can also be problematic if not crimped well. I see this alot in my line of work as my company like many companies seeks the cheaper route when possible. Some of our crimp tools when issued to techs that won't use them a lot will be the $20 version as opposed to the $200-$600 versions.

typical low usage issue, crimp, strip and cut small machine screws.



The problem with this is the terminal portion that the wire fits gets flattened and the wires splayed out resulting in a loose crimp. Test by wiggling the wires and connector, if loose it needed to be redone, preferably with a better tool.

Luckily, better tools are now available at reasonable cost.

For insulated terminals, I paid $30 at Canadian tire







for uninsulated terminals.....



If your soldering skills are good, consider using heat shrink tubing and make a soldered connection instead of crimping.

Also, if you found wires with worn through insulation, best to check the entire harness. Buddy of mine lost his bike to fire because of worn insulation. Another spot that seems to be problematic is where the wires com into the rear of the fuse box and connects to the fuse and relay sockets.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the connectors are twist on. I'm not a huge fan of them either but it was the only thing I could find around the shop and it gets the wires pretty tight. I did however unscrew them and replace them with cleaner ones and that's when the gauge pod started lighting up correctly
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok so I got bored and broke out the trusty voltage meter. And the post on the solenoid connected to the battery was showing about 30v. But the other side with the key on was showing nothing, maybe about 0.3. Beginning to lean towards bad solenoid
 

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Sounds like you should find a shop that you can pay to help diagnose a few of your issues. If you are gonna try to fix the wire harness and use, "what you can find around the garage", you will end up chasing your tail. Hope you get it running.
 

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Get a shop manual. Start chasing to find all the correct Voltages. I'd try swapping out to a Known good battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's a brand new battery. I re did my crappy wiring job with crimp connectors and made sure it was sending 30 volts from the battery post all the way up to about the front of the gas tank on the red wires coming out of the fuse box, and the gauge pod wont even light up. Is 30 volts too low???? Anybody got any ideas?????????
 

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No, 30 volts is rather high, should be around 13 volts. Is that with the bike running or just the ignition switch turned on?
 

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If your wiring harness is a mess then I would consider replacing the harness. I'm sure they're not cheap but if your having to splice stuff back together and your still having issues then you may be better off in the long run starting fresh. Wires break down under the insulation that are a PITA to find. Wires that have gotten over heated start to corrode especially if they get wet I.E riding in water. Bad wires burn up electrical parts like ECM's or the whole damn quad in worse case. I don't know how bad your harness is but it don't sound good to me. I would recommend a new wire harness and be done with the chasing and splicing. :smilietwocents:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That's just sittin with the battery hooked up. It measured 30 when I tested the battery, battery lead on the relay, fuse box wires, fuses, and running wires running up to the front of the bike. The bike won't run because when you turn the key on it does nothing. Won't attemp to turn over, fuel pump won't prime, gauge pod won't light up. Almost as if the battery is disconnected. But it's showing its pumping out 30 volts through the fuses
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If your wiring harness is a mess then I would consider replacing the harness. I'm sure they're not cheap but if your having to splice stuff back together and your still having issues then you may be better off in the long run starting fresh. Wires break down under the insulation that are a PITA to find. Wires that have gotten over heated start to corrode especially if they get wet I.E riding in water. Bad wires burn up electrical parts like ECM's or the whole damn quad in worse case. I don't know how bad your harness is but it don't sound good to me. I would recommend a new wire harness and be done with the chasing and splicing. :smilietwocents:
I was kinda thinking the same damn thing. Only problem is I couldn't find a new one but I did find one on ebay
 

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I agree. Just make sure it is the same one.
 

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Call your local dealer and confirm.
 

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If your meter is set wrong it may give a false reading of 30v . So if a circuit should read 5v and your meter is set wrong you wont be getting a correct reading which in turn will cause you to chase a ghost thats not really there. mabey double check your settings and re test then go from there.
 

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Agreed if your using a meter thats reading 30v on a 12v battery your not gonna get too far, if its an analog meter usually the needle is adjustable but to adjust it you really just want to make sure its zeros correctly, if its on 0 properly and your still reading 30v dc look for another meter, but with all that said im with the rest on looking for a new harnesd
 
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