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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I lost high beams on my last fall so I attempted to rebuild my existing handlebar switch assembly however; after losing some small pieces during the disassembly I decided not to hunt for them and just order new. I received my new switch and it looks totally different. I like the layout much better and the high / low beam part of the switch looks like a much better system but my question is, is this the write one? Being winter and the fact I have an LED light bar on the front I am not going to jump into this project until spring. Has anyone here changed out this component and experienced this? Also, do you guys with 15's and 16’s; does your switch assembly look like the one on my handle bar or the one in my hand in these photos?
 

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Well, it has all the required switches so you should be good to go. If your running a LED bar through the highbeam switch, i would recommend adding a relay and drive both the high beams and LED bar from the relay. My high beams are starting to act up so I am going to go that route before adding a LED bar.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info! My original thought was to wire the light bar with a relay powered from the high beam side of the switch however; I decided to wire my light bar with its own switch thinking it would be a nice to have it separate in the event I did lose something in the Can Am lighting circuit. Don't to be left in the dark. I did not have the light bar on the quad when I lost my high beams so it was only low beams for the rest of the trip. :pi_sunglasses:
 

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I had to repair my light switch. Lost hi and lo beam. After I disassembled the switch I saw that the small contacts no longer made contact. After finding dropped small part I sanded and moved the contacts so they would make. A couple hours and a few tries with very small tools. Now it works fine. The switch is cheap and assembled in Mexico. And there lies the problem.
 

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Thanks for the info! My original thought was to wire the light bar with a relay powered from the high beam side of the switch however; I decided to wire my light bar with its own switch thinking it would be a nice to have it separate in the event I did lose something in the Can Am lighting circuit. Don't to be left in the dark. I did not have the light bar on the quad when I lost my high beams so it was only low beams for the rest of the trip. :pi_sunglasses:
The switch that feeds power to the aux lights can get it's power from the 12volts going to the factory switch or from the power to the high beams. I had the same thought.

Now the hard part is to access the plug which looks like it plugs into the harness under the dash support. looks like the front end needs to be removed to get at that. As a Newfie would be sayin....Lard tundering JEsus, what da Hell were day tinkin?
 

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Yes, that is the new switch design. I rolled my new 650 and busted the switch and when I ordered the original part number they shipped me that switch with a different part number. When I looked into it I was told that the original one was discontinued and replaced with this new one. Wiring wise to plugged right in. HOWEVER, you need a new bracket for the winch switch. This new switch is taller than the old one so the old winch brake will not work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the info! My original thought was to wire the light bar with a relay powered from the high beam side of the switch however; I decided to wire my light bar with its own switch thinking it would be a nice to have it separate in the event I did lose something in the Can Am lighting circuit. Don't to be left in the dark. I did not have the light bar on the quad when I lost my high beams so it was only low beams for the rest of the trip. :pi_sunglasses:
The switch that feeds power to the aux lights can get it's power from the 12volts going to the factory switch or from the power to the high beams. I had the same thought.

Now the hard part is to access the plug which looks like it plugs into the harness under the dash support. looks like the front end needs to be removed to get at that. As a Newfie would be sayin....Lard tundering JEsus, what da Hell were day tinkin?
Yes, I startling looking at this project this weekend and agree.....they have not made what should be a simple job easy by locating the plugs where they did. :th_smiliefrustrated If anyone has any tricks to accessing these please chime in.
 

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I thought about ordering a new one since my high low switch burned up.. Tore it apart and it usually work 85% of the time.. I just leave it on high's now that I have an led bar im not gonna worry about replacing the switch.
 

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What is the part number for this new switch?
 
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I lost high beams on my last fall so I attempted to rebuild my existing handlebar switch assembly however; after losing some small pieces during the disassembly I decided not to hunt for them and just order new. I received my new switch and it looks totally different. I like the layout much better and the high / low beam part of the switch looks like a much better system but my question is, is this the write one? Being winter and the fact I have an LED light bar on the front I am not going to jump into this project until spring. Has anyone here changed out this component and experienced this? Also, do you guys with 15's and 16’s; does your switch assembly look like the one on my handle bar or the one in my hand in these photos?
How well does the new switch hold up with your LED bar connected to the new hi-beam switch?
 

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Resurrecting this thread...so was someone able to connect an LED light bar so it comes in with the high intensity light? I'm trying to do this on a 2001 Traxter, but so far no luck.
 

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A better solution would be to tap into the high beam power just to trip a solenoid, which would then trigger your light direct from the battery.
 

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My traxter doesn't have a separate high beam light. "High beam" is achieved by the MPEM sending more voltage to the single filament headlamp when the "high intensity" button is pressed, thereby resulting in a brighter light. What I tried to do was tie the switch wire from my relay to the "high beam" indicator light so it would serve as the switch which activated the relay, powering the light bar from the battery. When that didn't work...the indicator light and the light bar stayed in all of the time and didn't respond to the high beam button...I found the indicator light was ground switched. I then reversed the wiring on the relay so that it would operate on a ground switch. Then nothing would come on. Ultimately, I just installed a separate switch, but if I learned how, I still would redo it.
 

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Hi, As many I need to replace the original multifunction switch on my Outty 1000 XT 2012. I had a look at the setup and still wondering what is the best/easyest way to get access to the connectors... Not a lot of room to play around the connectors and my hands are not on the small side.

Any advice?
Thanks,
Max
 

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Old thread I know, but for those who have replaced the old switch with this new style switch and have the winch control under it, do you also need to get a different bracket for the winch control, as mentioned above? My low beam started acting up and needs to be played with in order for my low beams to work, so I ordered the new switch. There is a post above which mentions needed a different winch bracket in order to mount the winch control. Can one just order one from the 2016 model?
 

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Mine came with the new winch bracket. However, if your having troubles with your low beam portion of the switch, that probably means you have blown the bypass fuse or it was never installed. Normally, when the key is in the headlight ON position, the low beams are always on. That is accomplished by a fuse that is wired parallel to the low beam switch. The fuse is in the front fuse box. 15 amp, FP1.
 

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