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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally, got mine installed today. Zero drilling, everything hidden. 2020 Can-Am Defender XMR10

Brackets: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GYHLYZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Light: https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-ZH40...0577ba&pd_rd_wg=x4zDF&pd_rd_i=B07TDJP5W3&th=1


Bracket install:

If you have the pop-up windshield you will need to cut about half 1/2-3/4" off the corner of your roof. I measured up 3/4 cut straight over an inch and then angled back down toward the windshield. I used a cut-off tool with a metal blade and then filed the edged.

Pro Tip: If you have any quick squeeze grips, you can use these to clamp your clamps to the roll cage to pre-fit. This is how I found how much clearance I needed. If you don't have the popout windshield then install them to your liking.

1. Place the brackets where you want them.

2. Secure the brackets. I couldn't get the included rivets to work, so I went with Hillman #12x3/4-in Socket Hex-Drive stainless self-taps. Found them at Lowes in the Hardware section in those pull-out drawers.

3. Secure the light to the brackets.
NOTE: If you use the brackets and light bar above, I cut that included rectangle rubber piece in a circle and placed it between the bracket and lightbar. I thought maybe this would 'bite' those grooves on the light bar so it wouldn't move.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-14-x-3-4-in-Socket-Hex-Drive-Sheet-Metal-Screws-5-Count/3012378

Wiring/Power:
You can do this 2 different ways.

A. Install on the (always on power) under the hood.
Requires you to either use the dead white wires that already run through your firewall. Easiest
or
Remove your wheel wells to access the hole that goes through the firewall, which has a rubber grommet in it.

OR

B. Install on Key Power only (ACC) located behind the diff lock switches. (This is what I did, instructions below).

1. Open the hood.

2. Remove the 2 plastic rivets (Drivers side) on the upper colored plastic piece that sits under the hood. The entire piece doesn't need to come off, you just need to be able to flex it to the side.

3. Remove the Front Drivers' side wheel fender flares, using star bit. Remove that pop-out glove box on the left hand of the steering wheel. Just open and twist, it will pop out.

NOTE: You will have 2 holes on the bottom roll cage bar where it bolts onto the frame. You'll need to flex that top plastic over to see it. Either will work:

4. Take a fish and insert it into the top side of the roll cage next to the headache plate, forcing it down the roll cage until you reach the 2 holes.

NOTE: The 2 holes are on the upper portion of the roll cage. The 'lower part' extends down a few inches where it's bolted. Make sure the fish doesn't go down there, where there is no holes. This takes some patience but twisting the fish and jerking it back and forth took me a few attempts.

5. Pop out the control panel that has key & diff locks. It only has a few tabs. Take a flat screw driving and force it open.

6. Take your wiring harness or wires that will run up to the light bar. Start them under the dash next to the acc posts, back behind the steering column, and behind that pop-out glove box on the left-hand side of the steering wheel.

7. Bend the plastic back again. If you put your finger in the larger round hole on the side of the cage by the dash, you can feel another hole leading into the buggy behind the steering column. Fish your wire through those holes.

8. Attach to the fish tape, using electrical tape.

NOTE: Make absolute sure what you tape together will fit through that rounded rectangular hole on the upper part of the roll cage by the headache plate. Seriously... make sure!! My wiring harness had connectors on it. I cut them off, so the wire would fit. If you decide to cut them, you'll need the same size quick connectors to attach to the two that go on the light bar wire side included in the package.

Pro Tip: Use dish soap around the connection and wire you are pulling through.

9. Pull wire through and connect to light bar.

10. Connect + & - ring Terminals to the ACC posts exposed behind diff lock panel. Positive in the one on the right, should have red tape on it.

NOTE: You'll need Metric #6 nuts. Depending on the size of your ring terminals, you'll need washers too.

11. Choose where you want the toggle switch to go. I put mine to the right of the headlights.

12. Make sure you wire your toggle to light up with the key (always on when the key is on) or only when the light is on.

13. Remove the false plate and snap in your toggle, connecting it. If using the harness, disconnect the connector, install and reconnect behind the dash.

14. Clean up the wires using zip ties.

15. Clean up your mess.

16. Enjoy cold beverage.
 

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Registered
Joined
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Finally, got mine installed today. Zero drilling, everything hidden. 2020 Can-Am Defender XMR10

Brackets: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GYHLYZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Light: https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-ZH40...0577ba&pd_rd_wg=x4zDF&pd_rd_i=B07TDJP5W3&th=1


Bracket install:

If you have the pop-up windshield you will need to cut about half 1/2-3/4" off the corner of your roof. I measured up 3/4 cut straight over an inch and then angled back down toward the windshield. I used a cut-off tool with a metal blade and then filed the edged.

Pro Tip: If you have any quick squeeze grips, you can use these to clamp your clamps to the roll cage to pre-fit. This is how I found how much clearance I needed. If you don't have the popout windshield then install them to your liking.

1. Place the brackets where you want them.

2. Secure the brackets. I couldn't get the included rivets to work, so I went with Hillman #12x3/4-in Socket Hex-Drive stainless self-taps. Found them at Lowes in the Hardware section in those pull-out drawers.

3. Secure the light to the brackets.
NOTE: If you use the brackets and light bar above, I cut that included rectangle rubber piece in a circle and placed it between the bracket and lightbar. I thought maybe this would 'bite' those grooves on the light bar so it wouldn't move.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-14-x-3-4-in-Socket-Hex-Drive-Sheet-Metal-Screws-5-Count/3012378

Wiring/Power:
You can do this 2 different ways.

A. Install on the (always on power) under the hood.
Requires you to either use the dead white wires that already run through your firewall. Easiest
or
Remove your wheel wells to access the hole that goes through the firewall, which has a rubber grommet in it.

OR

B. Install on Key Power only (ACC) located behind the diff lock switches. (This is what I did, instructions below).

1. Open the hood.

2. Remove the 2 plastic rivets (Drivers side) on the upper colored plastic piece that sits under the hood. The entire piece doesn't need to come off, you just need to be able to flex it to the side.

3. Remove the Front Drivers' side wheel fender flares, using star bit. Remove that pop-out glove box on the left hand of the steering wheel. Just open and twist, it will pop out.

NOTE: You will have 2 holes on the bottom roll cage bar where it bolts onto the frame. You'll need to flex that top plastic over to see it. Either will work:

4. Take a fish and insert it into the top side of the roll cage next to the headache plate, forcing it down the roll cage until you reach the 2 holes.

NOTE: The 2 holes are on the upper portion of the roll cage. The 'lower part' extends down a few inches where it's bolted. Make sure the fish doesn't go down there, where there is no holes. This takes some patience but twisting the fish and jerking it back and forth took me a few attempts.

5. Pop out the control panel that has key & diff locks. It only has a few tabs. Take a flat screw driving and force it open.

6. Take your wiring harness or wires that will run up to the light bar. Start them under the dash next to the acc posts, back behind the steering column, and behind that pop-out glove box on the left-hand side of the steering wheel.

7. Bend the plastic back again. If you put your finger in the larger round hole on the side of the cage by the dash, you can feel another hole leading into the buggy behind the steering column. Fish your wire through those holes.

8. Attach to the fish tape, using electrical tape.

NOTE: Make absolute sure what you tape together will fit through that rounded rectangular hole on the upper part of the roll cage by the headache plate. Seriously... make sure!! My wiring harness had connectors on it. I cut them off, so the wire would fit. If you decide to cut them, you'll need the same size quick connectors to attach to the two that go on the light bar wire side included in the package.

Pro Tip: Use dish soap around the connection and wire you are pulling through.

9. Pull wire through and connect to light bar.

10. Connect + & - ring Terminals to the ACC posts exposed behind diff lock panel. Positive in the one on the right, should have red tape on it.

NOTE: You'll need Metric #6 nuts. Depending on the size of your ring terminals, you'll need washers too.

11. Choose where you want the toggle switch to go. I put mine to the right of the headlights.

12. Make sure you wire your toggle to light up with the key (always on when the key is on) or only when the light is on.

13. Remove the false plate and snap in your toggle, connecting it. If using the harness, disconnect the connector, install and reconnect behind the dash.

14. Clean up the wires using zip ties.

15. Clean up your mess.

16. Enjoy cold beverage.
 
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