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Ordered the teryx one. I tried to just bolt the clutch back one but now it seems there is nothing there to grab. Maybe its just far enough off to reach.
It's either on or off. Thousandths of an inch. I wouldn't doubt you may have screwed the threads on the crank.....hope not!$$$$$$
 

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I ordered one of those and it ruined the threads inside the clutch. I had to tap it out to accept my CVTech puller.
 

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I thought John was now offering a heavy duty puller?
 

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Will the water method not work on the VFJ clutch?

Put some water in before the puller. wrap the threads of the puller with teflon plumbers tape and thread it in. water will not compress, so as the pressure builds, the clutch pops off. Just use an air hose and blow the water out when you are done. Also, you will need to tip the bike up on its right side so the water will go in. doesn't take much water to do the trick.
 

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So without reading through 83 pages, how are these clutches holding up? Would like to put one on my Maverick
 

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So without reading through 83 pages, how are these clutches holding up? Would like to put one on my Maverick
Can't answer the question, but like mentioned above, they are currently unavailable.
 

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Have mine on my BBK rene, its done a few hare scrambles, weekend trips with drags involved, fast trail riding. I have had zero issues. I don't mud, I avoid it. I just like to go fast.
 

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Why are they not available anymore?
The manufacture of them (Team) has OEM ones to make which take precedent. That's what John told me. He hopes they will be back to producing them later towards the end of the year.
 

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Is the VFJ primary needed for primary lockup in the Maverick Max Turbo? Not the XDS or XRS Turbo, but the base turbo Maverick Max. I have read the Turbo XDS has a locked primary, but I don't know about the base Turbo Maverick Max Turbo. I'm talking about this one.

Maverick MAX TURBO | Can-Am

If the primary is a locked primary in this Maverick Max turbo model does it have any short comings? Is the VFJ primary better?

I have also read the Maverick (all models) have a roller secondary. Is this true?
 

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Qsc....Stm....Cvtech
 

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OK Copy and paste this if needed.

or just link back to this.

Some people you can't get thru to. Those are the ones that will experience the thrill of doing a modification that truly does nothing. Making a steel center section over the stock aluminum to "lock the spider" isn't that the OEM maverick tried to do and still failed?

Why not just go buy a maverick spider. they are direct bolt on to a commander clutch. VOILA. instant "lock up mod"

Here's what the LOCKUP MOD does NOT do.


Here are my top 10 Reasons to replace that heavy junk problematic OEM clutch.

#1. IT does not Reduce 5 -6 POUNDS off the rotating mass of the primary. Aftermarket does....:clapsmilie:

#2. DOES NOT Start the belt .75 inches off the centerline (1.5 diameter center on aftermarket vs stock 2.25 inch center) more initial gearing. Try peddling your 10 speed bicycle in 3rd gear vs using 1-2. it's noticeable and easier on the belt. Aftermarket starts off in a lower gear. but still retains all the top end gearing...:yahoo:

#3. OEM clutch is still NOT a locked 1 piece unit. Still clamped together parts like OEM. :sad:

#4. No adjustability. Get out another 300.00 and Spend more money on an adjustable clutch kit. :sad::sad: Aftermarket is fully adjustable.

#5. Still has Problematic OEM spider rollers that flatspot. Lockup mod does not change these worn out parts. IT still uses problematic OEM unit. Again, you'll need replace them with Aftermarket for more money if the spider goes bad as that's where the lockup mod is done.:th_smiliepullhair: More money....

#6. Lockup mod RETAINS problematic 1 way center bearing in OEM clutch. Eliminate this...:th_smiliefrustrated

#7. Freewheeling, You can't do this with the OEM clutch unless you blow out the 1 way. :aniwheeler6: Aftermarket can freewheel and engine brake stronger than stock any time you want.

#8. You still retain the OEM durability. If your clutch sheave isn't slipping, what are you gaining??? What changes?:sad: Nothing!! (your pocket is 300.00 lighter)

#9. You still have your OEM USED CLUTCH. SO what... it's locked. What if the sheaves are worn and grooved, spider rollers are shot, spider buttons fall out, weights are egged out and the pins are seized. How can this benefit a unit like this? :th_smilieboohoo:

#10 No resale value for removed parts with a lockup mod. You can sell that stock crap clutch when you replace it with an aftermarket clutch. :smilietwocents: Now where's the real value?


However. The aftermarket primary I sell does all of that....

Lets compare. Lockup mod vs Team primary.

Lockup is 300.00 + Shipping to and fro, Plus a clutch kit vs 650.00 for all the above on my aftermarket unit.


What are you saving??? maybe 50 bucks. But you still have all those worn parts and it's not as adjustable as the aftermarket unit.

BUT THEN PEOPLE REALIZE......IF you get aftermarket clutch, You can SELL your stock primary clutch to these fools that want to do the lockup clutch mod. IT's got to be worth 250-350 bucks used. SO 650-350.00 is......300.00 for a totally new un used clutch

for 300.00 give or take You can have all the above, full adjustability, 5 POUNDS less than stock, Plus a more reliable LOCKED unit. not a bolt together modded OEM unit.

If you want a locked spider, buy the maverick OEM spider with the steel center section. install the stud and nut. they don't slip that way. it's the same as the lockup mod.

If the OEM clutch doesn't slip. what the difference?

There is a substantial difference between a non slipping OEM clutch and my aftermarket unit. my renegade OEM clutch never slipped. I had it marked. I gained 3-4 Lengths in 300 feet with this aftermarket unit vs the stock clutch.

John
so you sell the TEAM primary? or any after market primary you would recommend?
 
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