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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've got an 09 outlander 800 with a HMF swamp series slip on and a snorkel kit. . Ran good until cousin overheated it twice in the woods and now there's almost no engine power oil is foamy and smells like gas and exhaust smells rich. But there is no engine light on at all. . And some times hard start when cold...thinking the rings are washed out
 

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Ya, overheating them caused major internal damage.
I would start ripping it apart and inspecting what it needs and go from there.
 

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Don't rip motor apart yet! Change oil and filter check your plugs. Many on this site have had over heat issues and I haven't heard of anyone needing engine overhaul. Did bike go into limp mode when your cousin overheated?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There's is nothing on dash at all. Wasn't home when it happened... if you throttle it easy will go about 10mph I f throttle hard or quickly it'll die and starts hard
 

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I'm sure there are others with much more expertise withatvs then me but, I always break it down to air, fuel, spark . Check your air filter maybe even remove it or disconnect inlet to throttle body so you know fresh air is not an issue and see how it runs( don't go driving it in loose gravel or dirt etc as no filter);if no change put a fuel pressure gauge in line (free rental at auto zone) and see what your pressure is at idle but also what is it doing at part and full throttle? (Change your filter first then run bike if that doesn't work then check fuel pressure); sounds like fuel pump may be your issue; if fuel pressure is good check your coils with ohm meter ( check your plugs before you do any of this as sometimes they will tell the whole story if your plugs r fowled etc) check plug wires too a melted or cracked wire can cause your symptoms.
 

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low fuel pressure will cause it to run terribly and also the plugs would need changed.
Have you changed the oil to see if there is any coolant in it?
Possibly a blown head gasket or both if there is.
I would for sure change the oil to inspect it and change the plugs.
 

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Still check fuel pressure even if it is at idle and for a moment when you hit the throttle (changed the filter first takes five dollars and two min) then check fuel pressure very easy to do and if it is low you know the pump is shot. I had to do mine bought it from auto parts store, it wasn't difficult at all. Low fuel flow WILL cause your machine to run hot! So change that filter and check fuel pressure.
 

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Don't underestimate the possibility of this being a fuel flow issue; if filter was clogged or pump not maintaining proper pressure it would cause machine to over heat like it did to your cousin.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The oil isn't milky it's just very thinned out from fuel...and.. exhaust smells super rich ..I'll check fuel pressure Friday when I wrench on it for a bit after I finish the wiring on my rhino. ...what's specs on fuel pressure...where's a place to get a good service manual for this quad at...thanks for the help guys
 

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I want to say it is 51psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I did some wrenching today and got no where ...dam computer controlled junk... well I've got 120 psi on both cylinders good spark and fuel ...still no start...I need an in line fuel pressure tester to check pump...but it seams weak to me and I hope that's all it is ...but still don't understand why the fuel in the oil
 

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You gotta check that fuel pressure not sure where your from but we have auto zone and advance auto that both do a free tool loan you leave a deposit and get it back as soon as you return tool.
As far as fuel in your oil here is my theory; when bike is running very poor and stalls etc your injectors are still squirting fuel into cylinders but proper combustion is not happening, that excess fuel finds its way past rings into your oil, remember, rings have a gap that fluid can find its way around.
 

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Found this it's from a can am service bulletin
WHEN THE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE IS REAL COLD ON AN ENGINE THAT DOESN'T START GOOD. (THE ISSUE HERE IS THAT THE ENGINE NEVER IS ALLOWD TO WARM UP). Not all the fuel is burnt, it goes past the rings into the crankcase. If the engine is started time and time again, and not allowed to warm up, fuel will eventually contaminate the oil. This will happen to any 4 stroke fuel injected engine. The engine must be allowed to warm to operating temperature at all times.
So if engine is outrunning properly excess fuel can find its way past rings, even in a healthy( good compression) motor
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well it's not liking good for team Can Am in Ohio. ...with leak down test it verified my thoughts. ..90psi on control gauge 15 psi on deferential gauge on both cylinders. ...time for rebuild
 

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15 is GREAT, not poor. Even a fresh rebuild will have 15-20% on leak down test. And high leak down % doesn't automatically mean motor has to come apart; leak down should only be used to determine where leak is, ie exhaust valve (no big deal), rings ( unless very high no big deal) and intake ( if high enough may warrant a look). Proper use of leak down test or compression test is comparative; so unless you have a baseline from when engine was new and perform test with same gauge same way at same operating temp it's all but impossible to tell just how much wear you have. That's why blanket statements on what readings are ok can be very misleading. Engine temp and even what pressure you perform leak down at can influence the outcome; as will your gauge or buddy's gauge, we would always rock crank back and forth a little while at top dead center with test pressure in cylinder in order to properly seat rings as rings need that pressure to properly seal, these variables will influence out come.
Again though 15% is great for these engines a rebuild is not called for! If test was performed properly your motor is very healthy.
 

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If you have good compression, and 15% on leak down yes your good. Your testing after letting motor properly warm up 15 to 20 min (acc to can am.) TDC of compression stroke etc
 
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