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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 outlander 400 xt that wouldnt go in and out of 4 wheel drive consistently. I verified that the 4 wheel drive switch is good from voltage tests to the actuator connector and I could hear the actuator was working by pressing the 4 wheel drive switch with the engine not running.
I pulled the actuator and I can see there is a broken pin on a part refered to as the slider in the parts breakdown. This is the part that the actuator moves to engage and disengage the spline shaft for the front wheel drive. In order to get to that I need to remove the housing that the actuator is bolted to. Does anyone know the next step to get to that part? Can I take the front axel apart? or? The service manual is not real clear.
I currently have the left and right plastic removed and the actuator is removed. The housing the actuator is in is unbolted from the motor.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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I would think once you get the actuator off the housing it would be right there. How did this break did you shift into 4x4 while moving?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I let some one else drive the machine. They probably did shiftto 4 by 4 while moving but cant be sure. the part we need to replace is in the housing. Wrenching on it right now. Its looking like we need to take the right front axel out and then move the front differential to get the part out of there. i am hoping to find some one who has done this already.
 

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I replaced the seal on the shaft between the motor and front diff . I think i just unbolted the front diff and slide forward enough to get it out.i do not remember taking the front axle out .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
We tried that but with the brake disc in there we cant get the differential bolts loose. do you rememrber if you have some sort of tool that made it possible?
 

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can you get to them buy turning the wheel so you can go thru the rotor . I forget how i did it know maybe i just loosened up the rotor .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
After looking at it a while it looks like we might be able to take the caliper and disc off and then get to the bolts on the differential. The concern we have is if the front axel is pulled out will we be able to get it back in with out removing one of the front drive shafts. It sounds like that worked for you.. The shop manual says to pull the entire right front side apart to do this. That include the wheel, wheel mount, Aarm, shock mount and brakes. then is says to pull the right drive shaft out. Then roll the differential forward to remove the front axel like you did. Once we get the front axel out we can get at the part that needs to be replaced. We are thinking this over because of all the tools required. Not sure its a home garage project.
We were looking at ways to cheat since all we have to do is get to that pin, The housing doesnt necessarilly need to be removed completely to get at it.
Thanks for you input! it gave us some other ideas.

I will update the posting when and if we do this ourselves.
If anyone else has done it advice would be appreciated.

On a side note. This is a good lesson for those that say its ok the shift on the move. It wont be happening with my machines again. And another side note, A good lesson for the discussion about others riding your ATVs.
One flip of the switch at the wrong time.. could be about a 1000 dollars of dealer work. And you will never know for sure if it happened.
 

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you should be able to get the front drive shaft free by unbolting the front diff and then move it forwards and rotate out of the way, I do believe if you remove the right front wheel and then put a jack under A arm to put the axle back to a position this allows the diff to swing foward and out of the way. I found this out when I was putting it back together as I could not get it to swing back into place but when I got the weight of the bike on the A arm it gave the axle enough room to allow the diff to swing easy into place, I had to replace my seal on that drive housing and did not take anything apart, I can not remember taking the rotors off, I think the left one would let the bolts come out if removed, you may want to put in a new seal at the time you are there as if it should now start to leak you will have to get it done anyways and a parts supplier should be able to match a seal up easy and it was not that expensive. I did not have a seal installer so I used a hydralic bottle jack and piece of steel I had on the seal and thick plywood under housing and put jack under my trailer hitch of truck and jacked seal in to place smooth and square and controlled, it slid right in square, no leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you. another great tip. I ordered the parts including the seal yesterday. you have to remove the seal to get to the pin that the slider (that is broken) slides on so we are putting new seals and o rings on everything including the actuator as long as we are in there. I found it interesting that the slider part is no longer available and can am has replaced it with another part number, my guess is its a newly engineered part because of problems with the old one. When the parts arrive we are going to give it a try. I will be watching for more tips and update the posting with what we find so other can am owners can utilize this for future reference.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
400xt,
Thanks for the tip and getting us going in the right direction.
Over50,
Thanks for adding to the information and making the job a lot easier.

As over50 said, we were able to jack up the bike, remove the right front tire and then lower the right wheel on to a jack stand. This relieved pressure on the front differential and we were able to roll it forward. We did remove the calipers and discs to get them out of the way when removing the differential bolts to avoid any damage to the discs if a wrench broke loose. We figured it was worth the time not to accidently break a disc. it was our call and we went that way because parts can be expensive.
Once the differential was rolled forward we were able to put the axle forward and remove the housing that the actuator was attached to, remove the seal from the housing and remove the pin and then replace the slider. Putting the machine back together we replaced all the used seals and orings and put everything back together in the same order we took it apart. We used a big socket and jack to press the housing seal in place. and Resting the right wheel on the jack made moving the front differential in and out of place very simple. Again, Thanks for that tip over50.

The pin on the slider that the actuator pushes back and forth to engage/disenage 4 wheel drive was completely broken off and we found it in the actuator when we took it apart. Apparently some times it would catch and do the switch to 4 wheel drive and other times not which explained the symptom I was having.

A side note, The shop manual doesnt tell you to drain the motor oil before pulling the actuator housing. We did have some oil leak out and ended up draining the oil after making a just a little bit of a mess.

I hope this is helpful for other members with similiar problems.

My thanks again to 400xt and over50.

Back on the road with dependable 4 wheel drive just in time for prime whitetail bow hunting in MN.
 

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Great info...
 

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400xt,
Thanks for the tip and getting us going in the right direction.
Over50,
Thanks for adding to the information and making the job a lot easier.

As over50 said, we were able to jack up the bike, remove the right front tire and then lower the right wheel on to a jack stand. This relieved pressure on the front differential and we were able to roll it forward. We did remove the calipers and discs to get them out of the way when removing the differential bolts to avoid any damage to the discs if a wrench broke loose. We figured it was worth the time not to accidently break a disc. it was our call and we went that way because parts can be expensive.
Once the differential was rolled forward we were able to put the axle forward and remove the housing that the actuator was attached to, remove the seal from the housing and remove the pin and then replace the slider. Putting the machine back together we replaced all the used seals and orings and put everything back together in the same order we took it apart. We used a big socket and jack to press the housing seal in place. and Resting the right wheel on the jack made moving the front differential in and out of place very simple. Again, Thanks for that tip over50.

The pin on the slider that the actuator pushes back and forth to engage/disenage 4 wheel drive was completely broken off and we found it in the actuator when we took it apart. Apparently some times it would catch and do the switch to 4 wheel drive and other times not which explained the symptom I was having.

A side note, The shop manual doesnt tell you to drain the motor oil before pulling the actuator housing. We did have some oil leak out and ended up draining the oil after making a just a little bit of a mess.

I hope this is helpful for other members with similiar problems.

My thanks again to 400xt and over50.

Back on the road with dependable 4 wheel drive just in time for prime whitetail bow hunting in MN.
Do you know what part number this would be? I can't seem to find it, and I need to replace mine as well.
 
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