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So a outlander 500 is a 650?
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So a outlander 700 is a 650?

Integrated transmission, like the 450 had?

Calibrated for low end torque, makes sense as a large bore single makes low end torque not high rpm power.

Utility calibrated suspension, what does that mean?
stiff springs that carry loads but are stiff? I might like that anyway.
 

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So a outlander 500 is a 650?
also
So a outlander 700 is a 650?

Integrated transmission, like the 450 had?

Calibrated for low end torque, makes sense as a large bore single makes low end torque not high rpm power.

Utility calibrated suspension, what does that mean?
stiff springs that carry loads but are stiff? I might like that anyway.
Yep, the 500/HD5 (40HP) and the 700/HD7 (50HP) are both the same 650cc motor. They have different cams and some detuning to account for the power differences. The cylinder is angled to the rear, so it's supposed to be much cooler on the legs.
I would imagine the utility calibrated suspension means stiffer springs considering the Pro has 13" of ground clearance and the 500/700 XT has 12". Same with the gearing, the Pro and the XMR are described as having an "Extra Low" gear. Pros also get 12" rims with 6 Ply tires.

I love the extra storage and the high air intake.

I am putting in an order for a 700 Pro Hunting Edition. Sounds perfect for what I need. Just gotta add heated grips.
 

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So a outlander 500 is a 650?
also
So a outlander 700 is a 650?

Integrated transmission, like the 450 had?

Calibrated for low end torque, makes sense as a large bore single makes low end torque not high rpm power.

Utility calibrated suspension, what does that mean?
stiff springs that carry loads but are stiff? I might like that anyway.
Yup both 650s. Can-Am forgot that the size usually means cc of the motor....

Integrated like the 450s yup.

They released the parts diagrams today for them. They unfortunately are using sliders in the secondary clutch. Wish they used rollers. Then they would have an excellent clutch combination.

The lower steering stem is now on a bearing instead of a bushing. The upper is bushing but hopefully it is better?

They took the Polaris route and the shims are now part of the bucket so you can't just replace a shim you have to replace the whole bucket to adjust valves.

The driveshaft is different and there is no longer a setup where it slides into the diff and uses a wear ring or the yoke seals oil. It is now splined on and then clamped on to the shaft.

I cant tell if the brake lines have splits or not, still just has 3 calipers.

Just a couple observations.
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Jewellery


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Not a fan of buckets as shims, due to cost for no benefit. Honda has done the same in the past, shims were $20.00 instead of $2.00.

I can guess the layout and cost savings were the reason for unit construction, I don't see it a bad thing but high sheer oil will be important.

I have not experienced both clutch types so no ill will toward either ...yet.

Do you think the driveshaft change will be a problem?
 

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Not a fan of buckets as shims, due to cost for no benefit. Honda has done the same in the past, shims were $20.00 instead of $2.00.

I can guess the layout and cost savings were the reason for unit construction, I don't see it a bad thing but high sheer oil will be important.

I have not experienced both clutch types so no ill will toward either ...yet.

Do you think the driveshaft change will be a problem?
Exactly and the Polaris buckets are almost $30. Oh well you don't have to do it often it is more just annoying for me when someone brings one in. Then I measure everything and tell em to come back when the new ones come in.

The only problem with the slider secondary is wear parts. You will have to keep an eye on the little sliders. A good roller secondary like in the defenders or mavericks will last 10k+ miles.

I think the driveshaft will be a good thing, especially if they allowed it to compress enough to slide out with sliding the diff back. It looks well enough designed also with pinch bolts. I get tired of sloppy Polaris stuff with no pinch bolts and terrible tolerances that are sloppy from new and get worse with a few miles.



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2016 Outlander Max XT 650
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The only problem with the slider secondary is wear parts. You will have to keep an eye on the little sliders. A good roller secondary like in the defenders or mavericks will last 10k+ miles.
What about performance? Which one will perform better? Result in smoother operation?
The lower steering stem is now on a bearing instead of a bushing. The upper is bushing but hopefully it is better?
Now that's an improvement! Is the upper bushing the same part number as the older models or a new part number?
I think the driveshaft will be a good thing, especially if they allowed it to compress enough to slide out with sliding the diff back. It looks well enough designed also with pinch bolts.
Will this result in no more need to replace wear items, such as the oil seal and wear ring of the old design, when they wear out? In other words, are there new wear items in this design?
 

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"The lower steering stem is now on a bearing instead of a bushing. The upper is bushing but hopefully it is better? "

So my concern here would be use and owners....
bearings have moving parts and need to be greased,lubed somehow. Many of this type of machine see water and mud enough they could wash the lube away, worse still pressure washers. Owners like to clean their machines with water pressure because it is satisfying how well it works. I replace steering head bearings (tapered rollers and caged ball) more on clean bikes than dirty ones, because the people who blast bearings push lube out and water in which destroys bearings . Seals can not hold back pressure and once inside it often can not get back out.

What are your thoughts on the rear suspension change?
durability?
tire wear?
function?
 

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"The lower steering stem is now on a bearing instead of a bushing. The upper is bushing but hopefully it is better? "

So my concern here would be use and owners....
bearings have moving parts and need to be greased,lubed somehow. Many of this type of machine see water and mud enough they could wash the lube away, worse still pressure washers. Owners like to clean their machines with water pressure because it is satisfying how well it works. I replace steering head bearings (tapered rollers and caged ball) more on clean bikes than dirty ones, because the people who blast bearings push lube out and water in which destroys bearings . Seals can not hold back pressure and once inside it often can not get back out.

What are your thoughts on the rear suspension change?
durability?
tire wear?
function?
I know what your saying about the lower steering bearing but the g1s never had squeaky steering and I've never seen one need replaced. Well see I guess.

Not a huge fan of the suspension change. Felt like they followed the pack a little. Durability will probably be a wash depending on how the new greasless bushings last. They look pretty solid and more automotive like. The gen2s were solid though and nothing really goes wrong other than sway bar bushings.

Tire wear also a wash. As long as everything stays tight that is.

Function I think depends on riding style and preference. The swing arms don't always have the highest clearance in the center of the machine but they don't have anything hanging below the axle vs the a arm is below the axle taking up overall clearance. Handling and smoothness is pretty dependent on shock package.


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