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Discussion Starter #1
Searched and couldn't find much to any info on this. I have attached pictures of the area.

No noises, nothing wrong while driving. Parked in the shop overnight and see oil on the ground. Look under the quad and see that oil has been sprayed on everything coming from the rear diff area. Looks to me like it is the oil seal part# 30g.

Could anything have caused this or is this just a random deal? Can you just pull the driveshaft away and fix or do you have to remove the differential?

Would appreciate any help..

2019 XMR 850
 

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2015 Outlander XMR 650
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Removing the diff isn't that hard, honestly, and it'd make replacing that seal easier than fighting it in the bike.

Couple things come to mind- while it COULD just be a random seal failure from age/use/etc, it could also be a driveshaft u-joint going out, wobbling the shaft, allowing for gear oil to sneak past the seal.

That's the beefy "true XMR" diff, so you shouldn't be plagued with the same bearing and internals issues as the weaker Gen2 diffs, but anything's possible. Check your backlash n all, while you've got it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didn't realize its that simple to remove, that's good to hear.

I appreciate all that info. Shaft and u-joints seem tight and what makes it weird to me is it was 0-100. Absolutely no leaks until I find oil sprayed all over the machine today from last night's 15 minute ride. Wondering if I could have even had a stick or cornstock tear it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Now I do notice that the shaft joint that connects to the diff does have some play buy I'm not sure how much would be deemed as normal?
 

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You can do it without removing it by just removing all of the bolts, unhooking the vent line and slide it back while flipping it over so the seal side is facing the back. That will save you the hassle of dealing with the axles. Definitely check your driveshaft out though and I would just go ahead and pull it to change the wear ring while I was in there if I was you.
 

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Come to think of it, I don't think you can pull the driveshaft out, without moving the diff back, so there's your answer right there. Should be 6 bolts or so, securing the thing to the frame back there. Other than that, the CV axles you'll pop out as you pull the diff back. You'll of course have to remove the bolt holding the rear yoke to the pinion snout, but that's it, diffs in your lap.
 

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Yeah, last few I have done I did it without even popping the axles out. I just did it right in the machine with it facing the back. Much easier than the first time I did it where I pulled everything off the rear lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah guys, I was wrong. My bad. I compared the slack to another Outlander and the u-joint is for sure shot in the rear and the front one wiggles as well. The shaft joint on the rear doesn't look healthy either where it slides over the splines. I am going to buy all new parts after pulling this diff out. I'll update soon. Any better places I can get cheaper u-joints though? Wow they're spendy.
 

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Any better places I can get cheaper u-joints though? Wow they're spendy.
Grit your teeth and buy the OE joints . Cheap ones are ...just that .
Don't forget to heat the yoke bolt and clean the female threads . Loctite upon installation.
They like to work loose .
One more tip , a thin 13mm ratchet/box wrench will save you from flipping a regular one over 451 times to get the yoke bolt out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Invaluable info. Thank you!!!

Does that oil look a little fishy or are some fine shavings normal for 1200 miles?
 

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Might be cheaper/worth your time, to just replace the entire driveshaft assy. Think the canampartsguy has 'em for a decent price.
 

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Invaluable info. Thank you!!!

Does that oil look a little fishy or are some fine shavings normal for 1200 miles?
Possibly "normal", esp if that's the first time you've changed it. Bear in mind, if oil's getting out, muck is getting in. Not real sure there's any need to "overanalyze" or worry about going any further into the diff than just addressing what you've discovered. Check your fresh gear oil in 50-100 miles or so, see what that tells you.
 
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X2 ^
Replace the oil along with the new seal then change it one more time after a couple hundo and , like Bomb says ...see what it tells you.
-Bonz
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Luckily hasn't been in mud since its been leaking! Perfect. Thanks for all the help everyone.
 

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Can Am Parts guy has nice u joints that are easily serviceable. That's what I did when I swapped mine out.
 
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I compared the slack to another Outlander and the u-joint is for sure shot in the rear and the front one wiggles as well.
How many hours and miles on this machine and were you greasing the u-joints regularly enough before?
 
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