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That pre filter works excellent. I would highly recommend The uni foam filters used with oil … they are pricey but Reusable?? No brainer. Foam with oil is the best protection you can get. Clean it 2x and that’s the cost of 2 stock paper filters … 3x and your saving money.
 

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too blow out the filter and rinse the Filterware cover after each ride.
blow out the oem filter before each trip.
Using compressed air to clean a filter is a bad idea. It can weaken the paper element and allow dirt to pass through it into the engine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Using compressed air to clean a filter is a bad idea. It can weaken the paper element and allow dirt to pass through it into the engine.
I do it from a distance, with low pressure to make sure I don't blow through the filter. Just removes the loose dust. Done it for years with all of my UTV/ATV and car filters with no issues. I could see where you could get carried away and damage the filter.
 

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Has anyone tried this filter: MinStar Air Filter Replace #715900394 CM-8016
Stick to OEM.

No reason to cheap out on an air filter. Especially the one listed above with sub-par reviews. Go with a proven filter and one recommended by BRP.
 

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Yea, after I posted this I started to think the same thing. A $14k machine and a $44 filter, no comparison. I did get the Filterwares pre filter in the mail today. I do like it a lot. It's more like a pretty tight mesh rather than the pre filter that K&N sells that is a bit "air tight" IMHO. I'll give the Filterwares a try and see how it goes.
 

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I bought the Filterwears and used it over the OEM filter on a 60 mile trip, mostly on dusty gravel roads/trails. Upon installation I was pleased with the Filterwears, but it turns out that it's mesh size is too big for the very fine dust we have here in SW Idaho. It caught almost no dust, and the OEM paper filter was very very full. I blew it out with an air compressor and was shocked at how much came out. I've read that using an air compressor to blow out the paper filters can damage them and cause them to be less effective. That's probably true and I'm planning to do this as seldom as possible. I also ordered the Twin Air foam filter, will see how well this works and how easy/hard it is to keep clean. But at $85 plus tax for the Twin Air, it's a hard buy. Then again, the OEM paper filters are up to $45 these days, ouch. I don't see a good and reasonably priced solution out there.
 

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I bought the Filterwears and used it over the OEM filter on a 60 mile trip, mostly on dusty gravel roads/trails. Upon installation I was pleased with the Filterwears, but it turns out that it's mesh size is too big for the very fine dust we have here in SW Idaho. It caught almost no dust, and the OEM paper filter was very very full. I blew it out with an air compressor and was shocked at how much came out. I've read that using an air compressor to blow out the paper filters can damage them and cause them to be less effective. That's probably true and I'm planning to do this as seldom as possible. I also ordered the Twin Air foam filter, will see how well this works and how easy/hard it is to keep clean. But at $85 plus tax for the Twin Air, it's a hard buy. Then again, the OEM paper filters are up to $45 these days, ouch. I don't see a good and reasonably priced solution out there.
Thank you for sharing with us your review of the Filterwears filter. I also have one installed but I am not sure how fine the dust is here. I clean it every 4 rides or so, but will check how much dust the paper filter has next time and go from there.

We are also really interested in your review of the Twin Air when it's ready.

As for the OEM paper filter, it's $39.82 + tax on Partzilla: https://www.partzilla.com/product/can-am/707800371
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
I bought the Filterwears and used it over the OEM filter on a 60 mile trip, mostly on dusty gravel roads/trails. Upon installation I was pleased with the Filterwears, but it turns out that it's mesh size is too big for the very fine dust we have here in SW Idaho. It caught almost no dust, and the OEM paper filter was very very full. I blew it out with an air compressor and was shocked at how much came out. I've read that using an air compressor to blow out the paper filters can damage them and cause them to be less effective. That's probably true and I'm planning to do this as seldom as possible. I also ordered the Twin Air foam filter, will see how well this works and how easy/hard it is to keep clean. But at $85 plus tax for the Twin Air, it's a hard buy. Then again, the OEM paper filters are up to $45 these days, ouch. I don't see a good and reasonably priced solution out there.
Where did you get the Twin Air for $85 plus tax? Part number I see on their website says P156066P? Is that correct? I usually see them listed close to $110 but maybe that is the CanAm labeled TwinAir filters.
 

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It sure is nice to be a member of this forum. And thank you PaulMoll. I use my Defender Limited in dusty conditions frequently, and I do not think the stock air filter is adequate. I had also wanted to change to an oiled foam filter for my Defender, so earlier this week I stopped by my local Can Am dealership and asked them if I could order an oiled foam filter, either Twin Air or Uni, for my Defender Limited. The parts guy looked through his books and said no one make one for that machine. Ok, so much for the dealership route. I just ordered the Twin-Air filter on the link PaulMoll posted at Rocky Mountain ATV. It cost me $58 because I had $33 in "RM Cash" on my account from years ago when I had last ordered something from Rocky Mountain ATV, and had completely forgotten about.
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Thanks for the link. Have you received and installed the TwinAir filter yet? Just curious on fitment and overall feedback? I ordered a dual Fleetguard filter (inner and outer), but thinking I may be better off investing the money into the TwinAir. Waiting to see if I can cancel my other order. If so, then I will grab the TwinAir. Nice to be reusable.
 

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I have installed the Twin Air. It fits pretty good I think. When I went to put on the filter box end cap I thought the filter was too long. But now I'm thinking that is correct so that it is definitely pushed up against the inner end and makes a good seal. I've read recommendations to put some grease on the inner end to make a better seal. I did that with a bit of spray lithium grease that I had, but it did absorb into the foam and now that I see how tight of a seal that end is I don't think it's necessary. I did run the Defender and I all can say is that it seems fine. But of course the real test comes after a long dusty ride to see how full the filter is. I bought a gallon of paint thinner (mineral spirits) and the oil from Bel-Ray (was recommended by several Youtube folks who claim to have been using Twin Air filters for years). There will be a hassle with cleaning and oiling it when the time comes. I've got an oiling container (plastic box with lid to keep it sealed when not in use), but don't have a good/practical/cheap cleaning container yet. Most people seem to be letting the cleaning solution (mineral spirits, kerosene, ....don't use gasoline) sit for a while to let the debris settle, then they pour the bulk of the solution back into the original container for future use. Then they wash the filter with kitchen detergent and water profusely. A universal advice is to not twist or "wring" the filter as that can tear the glued joints, rather just squeeze it to get mineral spirits or detergent water out. I'll let y'all know how the first cleaning goes.

With the finding of the two stage paper filters at a cheaper price I'm not yet convinced that the Twin Air is the best way to go. I'm also not yet convinced that the best ultimate solution wouldn't be a snorkel. I'm still thinking of making my own. The tantalizing aspect is that the air inlet tube is exactly in the right location to accept an extension tube going up to the roof level right behind the cab. Seems to me that a shop vacuum wand/pipe and some hose clamps (and even re-using the OEM 90 degree rubber tube that would be removed for this project) is not only practical but also the "final solution". Thoughts on this appreciated :)
 

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I have installed the Twin Air. It fits pretty good I think. When I went to put on the filter box end cap I thought the filter was too long. But now I'm thinking that is correct so that it is definitely pushed up against the inner end and makes a good seal. I've read recommendations to put some grease on the inner end to make a better seal. I did that with a bit of spray lithium grease that I had, but it did absorb into the foam and now that I see how tight of a seal that end is I don't think it's necessary. I did run the Defender and I all can say is that it seems fine. But of course the real test comes after a long dusty ride to see how full the filter is. I bought a gallon of paint thinner (mineral spirits) and the oil from Bel-Ray (was recommended by several Youtube folks who claim to have been using Twin Air filters for years). There will be a hassle with cleaning and oiling it when the time comes. I've got an oiling container (plastic box with lid to keep it sealed when not in use), but don't have a good/practical/cheap cleaning container yet. Most people seem to be letting the cleaning solution (mineral spirits, kerosene, ....don't use gasoline) sit for a while to let the debris settle, then they pour the bulk of the solution back into the original container for future use. Then they wash the filter with kitchen detergent and water profusely. A universal advice is to not twist or "wring" the filter as that can tear the glued joints, rather just squeeze it to get mineral spirits or detergent water out. I'll let y'all know how the first cleaning goes.

With the finding of the two stage paper filters at a cheaper price I'm not yet convinced that the Twin Air is the best way to go. I'm also not yet convinced that the best ultimate solution wouldn't be a snorkel. I'm still thinking of making my own. The tantalizing aspect is that the air inlet tube is exactly in the right location to accept an extension tube going up to the roof level right behind the cab. Seems to me that a shop vacuum wand/pipe and some hose clamps (and even re-using the OEM 90 degree rubber tube that would be removed for this project) is not only practical but also the "final solution". Thoughts on this appreciated :)
Very good detailed write up. But honestly, what a hassle! haha

Me? I have the OEM filters on hand and switch out when needed. 4 years strong and so far so good! 😎
 

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@AZ8: do you blow out the paper filters between use? I was told to be careful doing that as air compressor air can damage the fine fibers of the paper element. Just curious.

I sure would like to get out of this a) expensive paper filter; b) laborious foam filter mode. Call me cheap and lazy....please :)
 

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@AZ8: do you blow out the paper filters between use? I was told to be careful doing that as air compressor air can damage the fine fibers of the paper element. Just curious.

I sure would like to get out of this a) expensive paper filter; b) laborious foam filter mode. Call me cheap and lazy....please :)
Never.

I just hold it at an angle and as I rotate the filter, gently tap the rubber edge on the driveway. Gently.

My prefilter really makes a difference. I make a habit of cleaning it after every ride and it really doesn’t become an issue. Just make sure it’s sealed well in the air box and keep up with the general maintenance. Inspect and replace when needed.

I ride in severe dry and dusty conditions. About as bad as it gets. We have dirt here we call “moon dust” it’s so fine. Literally like brown flour! Lol

I’ve been happy with the OEM filter. Couldn’t imagine cleaning my filter with chemicals/cleaning solvents and applying oil after every ride. Yuk! 😎
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I have installed the Twin Air. It fits pretty good I think. When I went to put on the filter box end cap I thought the filter was too long. But now I'm thinking that is correct so that it is definitely pushed up against the inner end and makes a good seal. I've read recommendations to put some grease on the inner end to make a better seal. I did that with a bit of spray lithium grease that I had, but it did absorb into the foam and now that I see how tight of a seal that end is I don't think it's necessary. I did run the Defender and I all can say is that it seems fine. But of course the real test comes after a long dusty ride to see how full the filter is. I bought a gallon of paint thinner (mineral spirits) and the oil from Bel-Ray (was recommended by several Youtube folks who claim to have been using Twin Air filters for years). There will be a hassle with cleaning and oiling it when the time comes. I've got an oiling container (plastic box with lid to keep it sealed when not in use), but don't have a good/practical/cheap cleaning container yet. Most people seem to be letting the cleaning solution (mineral spirits, kerosene, ....don't use gasoline) sit for a while to let the debris settle, then they pour the bulk of the solution back into the original container for future use. Then they wash the filter with kitchen detergent and water profusely. A universal advice is to not twist or "wring" the filter as that can tear the glued joints, rather just squeeze it to get mineral spirits or detergent water out. I'll let y'all know how the first cleaning goes.

With the finding of the two stage paper filters at a cheaper price I'm not yet convinced that the Twin Air is the best way to go. I'm also not yet convinced that the best ultimate solution wouldn't be a snorkel. I'm still thinking of making my own. The tantalizing aspect is that the air inlet tube is exactly in the right location to accept an extension tube going up to the roof level right behind the cab. Seems to me that a shop vacuum wand/pipe and some hose clamps (and even re-using the OEM 90 degree rubber tube that would be removed for this project) is not only practical but also the "final solution". Thoughts on this appreciated :)
If you read the end of this thread below you will find alternatives to the original oem filter. An internal and external filter setup (but maybe that is what you are referring to the 2 stage setup). In all reality it can be a 3 stage (run the two inner and outer filters along with the pre-wrap). I ordered the Fleetguard filters, but then cancelled my order after thinking of buying the TwinAir foam filter once the discounted price was posted. I clean my oem filter after every combined camping trip out (which isn't often enough). I lightly blow off the loose dust. This has worked well for me and is easy. The TwinAir seems like a nice option, but it does add the little bit of extra hassle. So decisions....decisions.

On the same note, I did remove the feed hose that runs into my air intake. I replaced it with a clamp-on UNI filter to be somewhat of a pre-filter in itself. I've always run it dry since I was worried it might be too exposed and cake with dirt too fast. It has worked okay dry to reduce some what gets to the main filter. Maybe one of these trips I'll try running it oiled and see how it does.....

 

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Not really interested in this thread, but browsing it, and the issues y'all are facing made me think of so many of those precleaner bowls I'm familiar with running on the dirt equipment I've overseen in my career:


Think something like that would help the primary filters last longer/not fill up so fast? Works for all of the backhoes/dozers I've ever been around.....
 
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I ride in severe dry and dusty conditions. About as bad as it gets. We have dirt here we call “moon dust” it’s so fine. Literally like brown flour! Lol
We call it "bug dust"...extremely fine silt. This year has been so dry the trails have all turned into silt beds. In places so deep the bottom of the machine is pushing dust.

The engineers who designed the Defender air intake systems - for belt and engine - must never have ridden in dusty conditions or they wouldn't have designed the intakes the way they did. Right now they are in the worst possible location, exposed to all the dust churned up by the tires. The intakes should be up front somewhere, breathing clean air.

A couple days ago I ended up on a two-track that was deep silt for miles. My check engine light came on. I figured I knew why...and sure enough, when I pulled out the air filter, it and the housing were full of the silt. After cleaning everything...tapping the filter against the front tire of the Defender caused a huge amount of dust to fall out of the filter pleats - and reinstalling the filter the check engine light went back out.

I will be working on an air intake relocation of some sort. The OEM location only works for pavement pounders...Can-am engineers - are you listening??
 
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