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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to remove my primary and it wouldn't come off. Tool wouldn't go in any further. Backed it out and this is what it looked like.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
N/M I guess it's not that uncommon. I'll be calling MRRPM tomorrow and ordering his, and calling QSC to see if I can get a refund on that bent one. Man that's a bummer, got this beautiful new clutch just sitting there.
 

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Happened to more more then once on my sled.... Haven ´ t remove my quad clutch yet
 

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Trying to remove my primary and it wouldn't come off. Tool wouldn't go in any further. Backed it out and this is what it looked like.
I ordered one from Amazon.com. Used it the other day and it worked great. Looks a lot more beefy than the one you have. A little expensive, but worth it.
 

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It's happened before.. Call adam @ Qsc and he will either refund your $ or more than likely overnight u another one. His customer service can't be beaten!
 

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Are you trying to remove the stock primary? I just swapped out mine and had the same bottoming out issue, when i felt alot of resistance with my impact i stopped forcing it and tapped on the shaft with a malletand it popped right off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Renee: That's what I tried before I backed it out, but nothing.

I'm sure QSC will refund me for the tool but I'll order a better one from somewhere else. Seems a lot of people have bent these. Pretty sure that tool is just a BRP part and not a QSC part. Clutch looks awesome though, even though it's just sitting on my workbench :-/
 

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Always apply liberal grease to the tip and the threads of the puller ... makes a world of difference. I've never used an impact because it's not advised but never had a problem by hand and maybe a light tap on the bolt head when necessary ... done probably 50 of them and they always pop right off. Lucky I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I used grease on the threads, and every video I watched used an impact. Doing it with a ratchet was just spinning it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The mrrpm clutch puller popped it right off.
 

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Renee: That's what I tried before I backed it out, but nothing.

It was too late for the mallet tap by then. You had already crushed it so there was no more tension stored to pop it off.
Proper use of this tool and all like it is to tighten until tension is felt then mallet tap.
Works everytime.
 

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I agree you never just keep tightening until the clutch pops off. You turn the puller in until it bottoms out put some perload on it and hit it with a brass hammer and it should pop right off. To many people on YouTube using pullers the wrong way. I personally never use an impact on any type of puller or compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I did tap before trying to tighten it more to pop it off. Didn't work. I've been an aircraft mechanic for 14 years, so tools aren't a new concept to me. Thank you for the tips though, it could help the next guy out.
 

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Wow never had one stick that bad. You might want to try to get some penetrating oil on the spot where the clutch goes on to the pto it might help loosen it up or loosen up any rust if any. I use a peice of vacuum hose and get it right on top of the pto and spray down the hose. This way I don't make that much of a mess. I have also used a little heat on the sheeve this helps take some pressure of the steel post. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wow never had one stick that bad. You might want to try to get some penetrating oil on the spot where the clutch goes on to the pto it might help loosen it up or loosen up any rust if any. I use a peice of vacuum hose and get it right on top of the pto and spray down the hose. This way I don't make that much of a mess. I have also used a little heat on the sheeve this helps take some pressure of the steel post. Good luck.
Thanks, it already came off though. 1 hit with the MrRpm clutch remover and it came right off. I think that BRP tool was just weak or defective.
 

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Kawasaki puller work too.

I got my BRP puller from Adam at QSC. Stock clutch didn't want to come off for me either. I used the water method. Tipped the bike up onto the right side, poured a little water in, wrapped some teflon plumbers tape on the threads of the puller to get a good seal, threaded it in, and it popped right off. Then just blew the remaining water out with an air hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yep, had to use that method for other things in the past.
 

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I purchased the EPI puller made for the Kawasaki teryx. Apparently the kawi version has more meat on it which makes it more durable. Worked perfect for me.
 
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