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Discussion Starter #1
I watched a youtube video of how to remove the primary clutch the proper way. The guy says he uses a locking bolt to lhold the crankshaft in position. I cannot find where he puts this bolt in the motor to hold it into position. I have the online manual and it dose not show that technique being used. I started to clean my clutches but stopped short of removing the sheaves because of lack of confidencein what im doing. Is it really necessary to lock the crankshaft or is the right way to do it. I also dont see that bolt in the repair book, maybe for earlier models or larger than the 650. The other part that confuses me is when removing the secondary clutch ,,then re insatlling it the put a screwdriver in the back of the helix and spring, what are they trying to do here, anybody know, let me know thanks.
 

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HI, I just use a 3/8th drive extension to remove the primary,it works well. Just slide it deep into the cooling fins at the back of the primary and let it rest against the lower brackets of the machine it will hold it well. For the secondary I just made a tool using the two unused bolt holes in the secondary clutch right beside the one you use to spread the clutch to replace the belt. The screwdriver they are sliding into the back helix of the secondary it does the same job of holding the clutch so you can remove the bolt. The secondary is only torgued to about 48lbs or so ,so it comes apart fairly easy. Hope this helps.
 

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Look in your service manual and find the part number for the correct tools. I know that jamming a screwdriver or wrench or some other tool into the fins on the clutch can work, BUT if you happen to crack or break off a fin or damage the clutch, it's way more expensive than getting the correct tools. Also having the right tools makes it more inviting to do scheduled maintenance on your clutch (i.e. cleaning & greasing the 1-way bearing). I mean you have a 10k machine and cheap out on a tool to keep it in top condition.
 

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Look in your service manual and find the part number for the correct tools. I know that jamming a screwdriver or wrench or some other tool into the fins on the clutch can work, BUT if you happen to crack or break off a fin or damage the clutch, it's way more expensive than getting the correct tools. Also having the right tools makes it more inviting to do scheduled maintenance on your clutch (i.e. cleaning & greasing the 1-way bearing). I mean you have a 10k machine and cheap out on a tool to keep it in top condition.
Chief is right, if its in your reach there is no substitute for the correct tools. Plus you need in there a fair bit if your going to use that bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes the correct tools are the way to go. but still trying to find an answer about putting that bolt into the crank case to hold the motor in place while removing the primary clutch and also what about that screwdriver lodged in behind the helic and sprind, what is the purpose of that, they are puuting the clutch back together not pulling it apart. In my repair manual the guy showing how to properly take the clutch apart uses a bolt to lock the engine in place, in my repair book it does not show that tool, or states what it is for, still confused..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also when i was searching for ways to clean the clutch i noticed in my online repair manual that it does not show how to remove the inner primary sheave, it just says to lock it and remove it, and dose not show how to reinstal the nner sheave, how can you hold it with out locking it. Met a fellow at a party last night and he was telling me how his renegade clutch blew apart on the trail, dealer serviced,, so i want to make sure i know what im doing but this manual that i bought seems to miss some steps.
 

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Yes the correct tools are the way to go. but still trying to find an answer about putting that bolt into the crank case to hold the motor in place while removing the primary clutch and also what about that screwdriver lodged in behind the helic and sprind, what is the purpose of that, they are puuting the clutch back together not pulling it apart. In my repair manual the guy showing how to properly take the clutch apart uses a bolt to lock the engine in place, in my repair book it does not show that tool, or states what it is for, still confused..
Again, he is jamming the screwdriver in the helix to hold the secondary from turning while he loosens it and tightens it. As far as the bolt to hold the crank, not sure I don't have a 650 and use a 3/8 th socket extension as mentioned. Some of the guys say some of the clutch bolts are single torgue so watch for this also.
 

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Is this the bolt you are referring to? This bolt is used to remove the primary back sheave.
HEAVY DUTY PRIMARY DRIVE CLUTCH PULLER CANAM OUTLANDER MAX 650 800/R 850 07-17 | eBay
I have a 1000xt and am not sure if yours would use the same tools, but mine has a clutch holder (P/N: 529 036 238) which holds the primary clutch to the secondary clutch so they can’t move and you can remove the center bolts on both the primary & secondary clutches, a clutch puller (P/N: 529 035 746) which is inserted into the bolt hole on the primary so you can remove the back sheave, and a Puller/Locking tool (P/N: 529 036 098) which is inserted into one of the three holes around the main bolt on the secondary (on mine only one of those holes is threaded) and it will push the sheaves apart so you can remove the belt.

Like Hardly said, make sure to check and see if the bolts holding your clutches on are stretch bolts, if they are they cannot be reused. On my ride the primary is good to be reused, but the secondary is a stretch bolt and to reuse it would be courting disaster.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok guys i found the video on youtube where they use this tool or bolt to lock the engine or crankshaft in place while you remove in inner primary clutch sheave. I still cannot find this in the repair manual, they do not show that step, or i cannot find it. If you go to youtube,, or Servicing maintain canam clutches it should come up it was done by MechMike watch for the bolt he uses to to lock the crankshaft at top dead centre. Let me know what you think.
 

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OK, found the crankshaft locking bolt, in my service manual it is P/N: 529035617. It is not used in conjunction with removing the clutches (at least not in my manual). It looks like the hole for this tool is located on the front of the engine under the oil cooler. Not sure why the individual in the video referenced it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thankyou Chief,, trying to find out about the bolt was going to drive me crazy, i could have sworn i saw it in my online manual, but maybe it was for somewhere else. So i guess to remove the primary inner sheave you just use a impact gun to remove it, and a clutch holding tool to install it. I see the logic behind locking the crank up to put it back together, but will do as everyone else does right or wrong, thanks again for taking the time to try to make sense of it all.
 

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To remove the back sheave of the primary clutch you need a clutch puller (P/N: 529 035 746) which is the long bolt like tool that I posted earlier, which is inserted into the bolt hole on the primary and screwed in (some people use an impact gun to do that) and it will release the back sheave. The clutch holding tool holds the primary and secondary together stationary so you can properly torque the bolts.

Good Luck
 

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I recently replaced my clutches with aftermarket and the inner sheave on the primary gave me issues as well. I finally found that on the other side of the engine is a cover that takes a 14mm Allen key. Removing that exposed the other end of the crankshaft, which thankfully also took a 14mm Allen key. I put a buddy on that side with a breaker bar and Allen socket, then I slowly tightened the removal tool on the inner sheave, gradually increasing the torque on my impact driver until it popped off.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I recently replaced my clutches with aftermarket and the inner sheave on the primary gave me issues as well. I finally found that on the other side of the engine is a cover that takes a 14mm Allen key. Removing that exposed the other end of the crankshaft, which thankfully also took a 14mm Allen key. I put a buddy on that side with a breaker bar and Allen socket, then I slowly tightened the removal tool on the inner sheave, gradually increasing the torque on my impact driver until it popped off.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Its strange that they don't really tell have to take the inner sheave off in the repair manual, and nobody on this form really does not know the proper technique or they are not letting anybody else know i really don't want to start pounding away with the impact, so i will continue to try how to lock up the motor to remove the innner primary sheave, when i find it i will post it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
locking crankshaft to remove inner primary sheave

Ok i found what i was looking for. to lock the crankshaft. if you have the brp repair manual it is under subsection XX (bottom end) i will try to post a picture and description of the procedures when i figure out how to do it. the crankshaft locking tool or bolt is P/n 529035 617 and this is on page 17 18 in that section,,,it is still hard to see where you insert the locking bolt into the motor but i can see this being a much better way and less chance of damaging something in the clutch area.. Like i said i will try to post when i can. hope this helps all the guys like me who really don;t know the proper way to do things and are nervous about breaking something.
 

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Once again, you do not need to lock the crankshaft to remove the back sheave of the primary (any more than you need to lock the crankshaft to remove the rear wheels). You can do it and it shouldn’t hurt anything, just an exercise in futility and a waste of time. There is only one line in the drive pulley section in my service manual on removing the fixed sheave (I would assume that the procedure is the same on all their machines) : 9. SCREW CLUTCH PULLER IN FIXED SHEAVE TO REMOVE FIXED PULLEY. FYI when I removed fixed sheave on mine it was not quite that easy as screwing the clutch puller in and removing fixed sheave as the fixed sheave was kind of stuck on and it took a little persuasion before I was able to remove it, and in the research that I had done, that was common. As far as damaging anything, what could you damage? If you screw the clutch puller in and it bottoms out and you keep turning then the crank would turn over, however if the crank is locked in and you keep turning you may damage something then (i.e. strip the threads or break the clutch puller). Remember, just because someone put something on youtube does not make it gospel. If your service manual does not mention locking the crankshaft to remove the primary fixed sheave it is because it is not necessary. Anyway, good luck on however you do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Your right, i will try your way, looks easier are quicker, maybe i look to deep into things that only require a quick glance, thanks again for you help.
 

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Good luck on your project-im in the same boat with my 16 defender-the removal tool took the stationary sheave off but now it won't back out-i just keep focusing on the 100 dollar bills im saving by doing it myself.
 

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Its strange that they don't really tell have to take the inner sheave off in the repair manual, and nobody on this form really does not know the proper technique or they are not letting anybody else know i really don't want to start pounding away with the impact, so i will continue to try how to lock up the motor to remove the innner primary sheave, when i find it i will post it.
How did your project conclude? Taking off the fixed sheave was a stressful situation and I gave up. Tried holding the crank with a 14mm hex but stopped that as I felt a softness to the hex key on the crank. Was thinking of locking the crank but did not follow through with the idea. The manual states to NEVER use an impact driver. I believe this will cause stator issues. I've asked on this site to people with stator issues if they used an impact on their clutch but no replies. Currently the fixed sheave has been on both 2013 XTPs and I clean it with acetone. Look forward to your reply
 
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