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Renegade bogging / stalling after 2 hrs of riding.

9763 Views 18 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Rene800X
Ok I bought this thing 5 months ago and I will say even with all the struggles I have had its still my favorite toy I have ever had. So when I bought my Renegade the first ride I went on it ran amazingly. The next ride we are riding and after about 2 hrs it starts bogging down after about 2 hours of riding but it would never die it would just idle, once you turned if off and turned it back on it would run for about 30 seconds then bog again. I initially thought it was just a loose ground but I tightened and greased the ground went on a ride that didn't work. Long story short I figured out it was a bad fuel pump. I replaced that and cleaned the tank put new fuel in and she ran like a dream, for 3 rides that is. Now she is doing something very similar but also different..

After about 2 hrs or so she starts stalling, but now it does it when you let off the throttle, and try to get back on it. And it will not idle for very long it will just end up stalling it's self out.. It's not throwing any codes, when it's running it runs better than ever. I guess the fuel pump could of gone bad again but that seems unlikely and when you turn the key and you can hear the pump prime it sounds normal. Anybody have any ideas on what this could be
It's stating to make me sad that I cannot go on a ride without it having problems. Sorry that was a really long read, thanks for sticking it through. Here is a video of what she is doing. Thanks guys.

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Valves may need to be readjusted or it's getting to much air and not enough fuel.
Valves are usually the opposite tho. It seems if valves need adjusted then it's hard to start when it's cold but once it's warm it's fine.. Maybe I'm wrong. And yeah but why isn't it getting enough fuel? What sensors could be causing this TPS? Could the ECM be acting up when it gets warm? Whatever it is, it takes it 2 hrs to get hot / tired enough to start acting up. And all that without the computer knowing it's doing it. Since there are no codes.
If there are no codes my guess is you got a bad replacement fuel pump and during the 2 hours the motor is getting enough fuel to keep it running for short periods but not enough for it to run consistently.
I would check the valves too, check the rear valve cover for leaks also.. my rear valve cover was actually melted from the exhaust pipe and let water in.. is the oil clean after the 2 hrs of riding?
Let's hope it's not a pump. That's a pain, but it would certainly be better than valves. And I have not checked the oil in the last couple rides. It leaks no fluids when it sits in the garage. But I will give it a look when I get home tonight.
Throttle position sensor. Idle bypass valve. Valves. Fuel pump.
I installed a "T" in my fuel line so I can add the pressure gauge anytime without much work. If the fuel pump is the culprit, the pressure will be way down when it acts up. Harbor freight has an inexpensive pressure gauge kit. I terminated the "T" with a schrader valve and metal cap.
Alright looked her over and started screwing with it now I have a couple questions. I noticed when I turn the key to the on position the idle air control valve is making a ticking type noise is this normal? Also I heard these are finiky electrical systems. My battery was flashing low on the last ride due to having to use the winch 5 times and the problem started shortly after that. Could it be that the battery is not putting out t right voltage and screwing things up? It was not saying low battery when I was having the problems.
Definitely wouldn't help. Battery should be about 12.4 volts when the ATV is off and 14-15 volts at 4000 RPM.
I guess i will replace the TPS and put a T in my fuel line and check the fuel pressure if it acts up again.. I unplugged the TPS just to see how it would act and it acted very similar to how it was when it was acting up this weekend. That idle air valve is making some noise i'm not sure if that's normal or not but i unplugged that to see what would happen and it ran fine. Just had the check engine light come on. If the TPS doesn't work and the fuel psi is normal and it still acts up i guess we will move on something new. What should the fuel pump be putting out psi wise? Thanks guys
51 psi. If the TPS is moved at all it needs to be reset via the dealer. Take air valve off and try cleaning it. May be full of carbon/crud.
That's annoying. Seems I will likely have to take it to the Stealership at some point. I will clean the air valve and throw a fuel pressure gauge on and take her for a ride this weekend and see what happens. Thanks.
Check your kill switch! My Outlander did the same thing twice, one ride after 100km it started to do that, let it rest for about an hour and when got back to the bike it worked normal. Other ride it started to do the same thing after 40km, got to a car wash (I'm in Europe) washed the bike and worked fine till I got home.

Took the kill switch apart, clean it and put some electric spray on the switch and in the last ride, about 200km, didn't have any problems. Could be luck but it don't cost a lot to try.
I will look into it, thanks.
Ok so I was looking around the four wheeler and I noticed somebody replaced the fuel pump fuse with a 10amp, and it is supposed to be a 7.5 so I guess the possibility of it hurting it's self is there, I replaced it with the appropriate fuse. I installed a fuel pressure gauge and at idle it's saying 49psi but while it's idling every so often it will drop to 45psi for like half a second. Is this normal? I know it's supposed to be running at 51psi but it's a Harbor freight piece that I then proceeded to drop on the ground. So we will assume the gauge is very slightly wrong. Also I was going to take it on a ride and see if I could get it to act up, so I could check the fuel pressure. But I decided to replace my coolant and now one of my thermostat covers is stripped where the bleeder screw is. So I guess it will have to wait till next week.
Still waiting on my thermostat cover but I decided I would install my new temp controller. And I noticed now the fuel pump is only running at 39-42 psi at idle now. If I Rev it up it will go back up to 49 but then just goes back to like 40 once I let off the throttle.... So I guess I will pull the fuel pump tomorrow and try to get it warrantied out. Which I doubt they will... Could it be anything else? Is there a fuel pump regulator or anything else that could cause low / fluctuating psi? Thanks guys
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I'm having the same problem. I ordered a pump from eBay.

See this topic
Yeah i replaced the fuel pump 3 rides ago. It could be bad again but i think i found out whats wrong... Something is wrong in my Electrical system. When i first start the four-wheeler the pump is running at like 50 psi then when the cooling fan turns on it drops 10 psi. Then if i turn the lights on it drops another 10 psi. I measured the voltage and at idle with nothing electrical on it is at 14 Volts. But as soon as the fan kicks on or i turn the headlights on the voltage go's nuts. Then it says low batt and the idle kicks up 200-300 RPM. So im thinking that is directly related to my dieing problem after 2 hrs. I hope at least. I also noticed the voltage regulator is getting very hot, very quickly not sure what the problem is yet. Voltage regulator, bad battery, stator? i just dont know.
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