Renegade maintenance

2323 Views 16 Replies 8 Participants Last post by bigred1xxc, May 12, 2015

TravisH3

Discussion Starter · Apr 22, 2015

Hey everyone, I'm wanting to do fluids, filters, plugs and everything front to back on my 2010 renegade 800. I bought it used so I want to make sure I know what's in there.

Is there a list of all the fluids, how much, parts needed to do this? Not sure if there is a thread I missed with this info. Do yall recommend I go to dealer on use a name brand from my local auto parts store for fluids and what not?

Secondly, I read about greasing my one way bearing? Bike has 800 miles and I'm not sure if it's ever been done. The dealer did the maintenance up until I bought it recently buy not sure if that's something they do or not.

Thanks

Status: Not open for further replies.

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

LouisianaJake

· #2 · Apr 22, 2015

Definitely just use a good oil from your local walmart or auto parts store. Oil filters can be bought on eBay for much cheaper. Hi-flo 152 if I remember right..

Grab 3 quarts of syn engine oil, a few bottles of 75w140 syn for the diffs and trans and 6 pack of your choice.

?

Reactions: 1

jmason

· #3 · Apr 22, 2015

You will need Isoflex grease to properly do the clutch bearings. Its quite expensive, but a little goes a long way.

Kluber Isolflex NBU 15 (50 gram tube) 004026-221

styk

· #4 · Apr 23, 2015

Get a service manual, can save you a lot of frustration.

DaveB

· #5 · Apr 23, 2015

Manual states 75/140 for rear diff and gear case...75/90 for front diff. I don't buy into the high-end oil argument....but I do believe in running synthetics in everything as synthetics are more tolerant to water contamination.

LouisianaJake

· #6 · Apr 23, 2015

DaveB said:
Manual states 75/140 for rear diff and gear case...75/90 for front diff. I don't buy into the high-end oil argument....but I do believe in running synthetics in everything as synthetics are more tolerant to water contamination.

Yeap that's right. Sorry about that.

TravisH3

Discussion Starter · #7 · Apr 25, 2015

Alright thanks for all the info. Can someone point me in the right direction for the greasing of the one way bearing? Is there a how to video? Or something. Thanks!

styk

· #8 · Apr 25, 2015

Lots of youtube videos. Here's a link to replacing them, same process is followed to grease them, best write up I've seen.

TravisH3

Discussion Starter · #9 · Apr 27, 2015

styk said:
Lots of youtube videos. Here's a link to replacing them, same process is followed to grease them, best write up I've seen.

Awesome write up, my renegade has like 600 miles. Should I replace the bearing or just grease it. I do hear a whine when in park or neutral. Not sure if that means the bearing is bad or just needs greased.

Thanks for the help

DaveB

· #10 · Apr 27, 2015

If it's hard shifting, or tries to move when in neutral, the bearings need servicing. The whine is normal.

Big Shook

· #11 · Apr 28, 2015

don't forget to grease suspension and u-joints on a regular basis too. I think the G1 has eleven?? 8 in front suspension and 3 joints if I remember correctly?
Definitely try and get a manual and you'll never have to go to the dealer again unless its something that requires the BUDS.

TravisH3

Discussion Starter · #12 · Apr 28, 2015

Oh I always hit all the grease fittings every ride, I use our teal kubota grease we use for all our construction equipment. It does a real good job. Thanks for all your guys help. I'm ordering that grease for the one way now and gonna do all the fluids this weekend prolly and head to brimstone next weekend hopefully.

TravisH3

Discussion Starter · #13 · May 10, 2015

where did you all buy the bolt for the secondary clutch to remove the belt? m8x1.25 and needs to be 3" or longer with threads all the way. I went to my local hardware/fastener store and they had them but threads only went about half way. dealer told me they dont sell it when i was there today?

Ram Man

· #14 · May 10, 2015

TravisH3 said:
where did you all buy the bolt for the secondary clutch to remove the belt? m8x1.25 and needs to be 3" or longer with threads all the way. I went to my local hardware/fastener store and they had them but threads only went about half way. dealer told me they dont sell it when i was there today?

Use threaded rod and nuts. Dirt cheap. With a $5 investment I made enough to hand out to my friends. There is a thread here somewhere as well.

bigred1xxc

· #15 · May 10, 2015

there are 11 zerks, 8 front, 3 u-joints, front tricky, if have stock air box need to replace with foam filter, need kit: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/can-am-outlander-800-air-filter, stock bushings don't last very long, bead locks need to be checked very couple months, deflate tire and snug evenly from side to side, try not over tighten, manual has specs, radiator sensitive and needs to be thoroughly cleaned after each ride, avoid mud pits, steering stem bolt needs to be checked and tightened, if bike turned over oil will get in air box, no big deal just clean it out. wrap exhaust pipes. maverick heavy duty belt recommended, avoid after market belts. there aren't many sources to check kyb settings, there a few threads on this board, google: " how to adjust kyb atv shocks" for the list

TravisH3

Discussion Starter · #16 · May 12, 2015

Ram Man said:
TravisH3 said:

where did you all buy the bolt for the secondary clutch to remove the belt? m8x1.25 and needs to be 3" or longer with threads all the way. I went to my local hardware/fastener store and they had them but threads only went about half way. dealer told me they dont sell it when i was there today?

Click to expand...

Use threaded rod and nuts. Dirt cheap. With a $5 investment I made enough to hand out to my friends. There is a thread here somewhere as well.

Another hardware shop had a piece of all thread I needed so I welded a nut on it and problem solved!!! Thanks man

bigred1xxc said:
there are 11 zerks, 8 front, 3 u-joints, front tricky, if have stock air box need to replace with foam filter, need kit: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/can-am-outlander-800-air-filter, stock bushings don't last very long, bead locks need to be checked very couple months, deflate tire and snug evenly from side to side, try not over tighten, manual has specs, radiator sensitive and needs to be thoroughly cleaned after each ride, avoid mud pits, steering stem bolt needs to be checked and tightened, if bike turned over oil will get in air box, no big deal just clean it out. wrap exhaust pipes. maverick heavy duty belt recommended, avoid after market belts. there aren't many sources to check kyb settings, there a few threads on this board, google: " how to adjust kyb atv shocks" for the list

You are the man! I'm good on the zerk fittings, I've already got foam Uni filter that I cleaned and oiled and have a prefilter for it. I need to re torque my beadlocks since mounting them, I used a torque wrench and set them at factory specs. Thanks for all the good info.

bigred1xxc

· #17 · May 12, 2015

anytime, enjoy

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

Status: Not open for further replies.