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Discussion Starter #21
On my 2016 650, it's 450ml for the gearbox, 250 for the rear diff and 500 for the front diff.

At $1600, it's basically daylight robbery

Very happy for you. Keep us posted.

No kidding.


Well, it was almost dark by the time we got there to pick it up. 馃槀

Appreciate the info again on the fluids, she鈥檒l be getting all 4 changed out. 馃憤
 

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if anything, rebuild the motor and put a big bore kit in there! Or just a normal rebuild depending on the block, and you are still ahead on money wise for a low mileage/houred machine!
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
I managed to get to the front brakes this morning before heading out to work this afternoon, both sides were basically gone. The lefts were worn well into the metal backing plate for the pads. The right side... well, they were literally gone! The only thing left of them was the forward rings that the retaining pin goes through. :rolleyes: The rotors actually don't look bad, other than the surface corrosion. If I had to guess, I would say they were probably the stock pads.

The right wheel bearing is shot too, which in turn appears to have been what took out the right pads. I've got 4 wheel bearings on order, didn't check the rears yet. Looks like we'll be diggin in this weekend!

Here's a few pics of what I found. I now have a little (and I mean a little) bit of braking when actuating the lever. Looks like it needs some fluid in the reservoir, not sure if that'll give me more braking or not. They may need to be bled too, no telling what all has happened with them... although, we know it's not maintenance! :ROFLMAO:


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Wow, lol, mine were bad, but not THAT bad....

Be mindful you'll probably want to unbolt the RF caliper if you need to bleed the lines, the nipple in its location on that caliper is useless. I fought my handlebar lever a good few hours before I said "this just ain't right, how can that work?" eying my RF caliper.

Glad you're rehabbing it! Love stories like this(y)
 
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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Wow, lol, mine were bad, but not THAT bad....

Be mindful you'll probably want to unbolt the RF caliper if you need to bleed the lines, the nipple in its location on that caliper is useless. I fought my handlebar lever a good few hours before I said "this just ain't right, how can that work?" eying my RF caliper.

Glad you're rehabbing it! Love stories like this(y)

Appreciate it Bomb!

It鈥檚 odd, but the brakes seemed to have some how gotten better over the last day or so. Not sure how, but now I have braking action after 2/3鈥檚 or so of lever pull. Bought some DOT4 today, I鈥檒l be topping off the master cylinder tomorow.

Had a weird issue come up while letting it run at idle today though. After a few minutes of run time while running nice and smooth, it just died. Several start attempts resulted in no start... as in no turning over at all, not even trying. Dash was lit up nice and bright, just no rotation what so ever. I noticed the cooling fan never kicked in while idling, so I assumed it may be a heat issue. I鈥檝e never heard the fan kick in on this bike, but my 1000 kicks on while idling routinely.

Figured I鈥檇 let it sit for 30 mins or so and try again. After letting it sit, it tried to start but the battery was dead. :rolleyes:

I think I may be chasing a couple issues this weekend. The fan not kicking in has had me wondering since I got it running... need to look into that. And the new battery dying has me wondering... need to check the charging system too I guess. 馃槓馃嵑馃憤

More to come... 馃榿
 

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Sitting for as long as it did, I wouldn't be surprised if you found some electrical corrosion/gremlins to exorcise. I know mine won't even attempt to turnover if the killswitch is off. I've caught myself looking at the green button "why aren't you doing anything?" dash all lit up, then remember to throw the killswitch back over. Yours might be corroded over or intermittent.

Air could be "self-purging" up the brake lines into the handlebar MC, giving you that better lever action.

I don't think these bikes will shutdown in an overheat situation, tho it's likely the fan may have issues, it could just not have been hot enough to demand on.

Sounds like you're well on your way tho, to sorting it all. Good deal
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Let鈥檚 try one more time... :rolleyes:


Sitting for as long as it did, I wouldn't be surprised if you found some electrical corrosion/gremlins to exorcise. I know mine won't even attempt to turnover if the killswitch is off. I've caught myself looking at the green button "why aren't you doing anything?" dash all lit up, then remember to throw the killswitch back over. Yours might be corroded over or intermittent.
The multi-function switch did have some issues. I could push on the red ignition switch with the key on and make the power cut in and out. I鈥檝e remedied all of it by shooting some Houdini lock lube into it and actuating the switches back and forth really quickly. It works great now, that stuff is awesome and you can buy it at Lowe鈥檚.


Air could be "self-purging" up the brake lines into the handlebar MC, giving you that better lever action.
That鈥檚 exactly what I was thinking. I left the parking brake set for several hours and it got even stronger, we鈥檒l see if they鈥檙e good when I get it rolling... hopefully soon. 馃槓


I don't think these bikes will shutdown in an overheat situation, tho it's likely the fan may have issues, it could just not have been hot enough to demand on.
Unfortunately, I think the shut down may have been more of an issue than I thought. Since the battery was showing low after it shut down, I disconnected it and charged it overnight. Fast forward to this evening... I decided to do some troubleshooting on the charging system to verify if it was working or not. After checking the resistance and continuity on the stator, I reconnected the battery and started the bike to check the AC voltage on each of the yellow terminals going to the rectifier. They鈥檙e all good showing over 9 VAC on each leg, but the bike sounds terrible now! :rolleyes: Sounds like a bad bearing or something has let go internally. I know the fuel in the tank is bad, not sure if that鈥檚 what鈥檚 causing it or not (most likely not). I鈥檝e pulled most of the plastics off now and pulled the primary cover. Thought maybe it was coming from there because it has a squeak/squeal to it, but everything in there looks good from what I can tell.



View attachment 100034



I did verify that the fan works by jumping the contacts at the relay connector. May have a bad relay or temp switch... need to figure this crazy noise out first though. Out of daylight again, so I鈥檒l pick back up tomorrow. I鈥檓 going to change all of the fluids, interested to see what the gearbox fluid looks like. The oil still looks clean on the dipstick, we鈥檒l see what the filter looks like.



View attachment 100035




View attachment 100036






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I would start with pulling that bolt on the primary and checking the bearings in it.

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Discussion Starter #30
I would start with pulling that bolt on the primary and checking the bearings in it.
Never pulled one apart, got a few rookie questions...

What鈥檚 the torque process when going back on with it?

Will I need the tool to hold it while torquing, or is there another method that can be used?

I鈥檓 assuming I need to check the one way bearing, any others I can check in there?

Can I run it with the belt and primary off?

I know the spring is there and it鈥檚 under pressure, shouldn鈥檛 have an issue with that. Main concern is not having something needed to reinstall it.



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Never pulled one apart, got a few rookie questions...

What鈥檚 the torque process when going back on with it?

Will I need the tool to hold it while torquing, or is there another method that can be used?

I鈥檓 assuming I need to check the one way bearing, any others I can check in there?

Can I run it with the belt and primary off?

I know the spring is there and it鈥檚 under pressure, shouldn鈥檛 have an issue with that. Main concern is not having something needed to reinstall it.



D
I believe the torque on that bolt is 87 plus minus 2.

I personally use the tool as I do enough of them it is just easier, but you can use a ratchet strap around the primary to hold it or a board to wedge it.

You can watch a couple of videos on youtube but there are two bearings in the one way. One on front side and one on rear. There are two little pins that give it the one way action that you will need to make sure not to lose. You spin that one way assembly a certain direction (I can't remember which way as I usually don't even pay attention) and it will slide off.

Yes you can run it with the primary off. Although it may die if you rev it up and it is coming back to an idle. The extra rotating mass helps the motor keep momentum. You actually won't take the whole primary off just the outer half. You need a special tool to take the inner half off.

The spring is actually not that stout and you will be able to push it on with one hand and thread the bolt in with the other.

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The other thing to check ia the weights in the clutch and the rollers they ride on. Make sure no flat spots and that they move freely.

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If you are going to inspect/clean/replace the One-Way bearings, check this DiY thread:
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Appreciate the help guys!

So, after doing a lot of research and watching several videos on the primary, I figured I鈥檇 pull it and lube the one way. Unfortunately, the tube of ISO Flex won鈥檛 be here until tomorrow, so figured I鈥檇 press on with the other maintenance items I planned on doing.

Figured I鈥檇 go ahead and change the gearbox oil next... wow! When I pulled the fill plug, it came pouring out. It was way overfilled and somewhat milky. This had me thinking... maybe the squeal was coming from the gearbox.

I drained as much as I could with the left side of the bike lifted. Filled it, ran it, and changed it again.

Here鈥檚 what it looked like the first go around... sorry about all of the leaves, knocked them out of the skid shield while it was draining.



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Here鈥檚 the drain plug. A little hairy, but no part numbers.;) Cleaned it off, all of the ferrous material was very small filings... nothing major.


100056
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Ran it after the gearbox change. It was better, but still very loud. The loud squeal went away though. Went ahead and changed the engine oil, I think this is the first time the fluids have been changed on it. :cautious:

Here鈥檚 what I found in the filter housing. Again, nothing large, just a lot of filings.:confused:


100057





D
 

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Discussion Starter #36
If this is its first oil change, I鈥檇 assume that鈥檚 not too bad.
 

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That is quite a bit of material for being just engine oil, but I'd run it and see what happens.

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Discussion Starter #38
Here鈥檚 what it sounds like when it鈥檚 cold...


 

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Your video is private.


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Discussion Starter #40
Here鈥檚 what it sounds like after it warms up...


 
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