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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
im going to start getting into the valve area pretty soon to do my valve adjustment, check the chain guides and install a aluminum valve cover. Since I’m getting up in the valve area I was thinking about removing my decompression lever. As I’ve heard about the weight going through the valve cover and it being nothing but trouble. I was wondering if it’s worth removing it or just leaving it hoping it doesn’t break. If I should remove it what parts do I need in order to remove it. I’ve looked for threads and videos for directions on how to remove it and can’t find any, I know they are somewhere on the internet but I’ve had no luck. would like to get everything at the top of the motor all done with so I don’t have to mess with it for a while.

This is for my 2005 outlander 400
 

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I know someone who had it fail. It broke in a few pieces. It looks like he got lucky and got all the pieces. He put a new one in and didn't tighten the bolt enough. It loosened and the timing sprocket slipped off it's post. Lucky it's not an interference piston/valve set up!
I helped him remove it and try to time it without the proper crank holder bolt size. We thought we got it, but after we got home he called me and said it seemed low on power. I live a few hours away so I am not there to help him check that. Not sure if he has figured it out yet or not. It has nothing to do with the weight though.
Unless you have to pull start it, you will not know it's gone on a 400.
 

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I had well over 4000 miles on my 400 when I sold it and never had any problems with it.
Others have had problems I've read.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Did some looking and from what I’ve read I need a new cam sprocket (what they call a “steering wheel”). The cam sprocket comes off the front cylinder of a 800 outlander. Why can’t I just remove the decompression system off the sprocket on it now instead of putting a new sprocket one on it? Is it because the stock sprocket has holes in it? Looking at the 400 part diagram I see the decompression thing on the camshafts that flips around when starting and creates a bump on the camshaft pushing the exhaust valve a bit as it goes around. Once I remove the decompression thing on the sprocket does it stop the thingy in the camshaft from flipping out and hitting the exhaust valve or is there some way to disable it? Also, how hard is it to time the motor once I remove the sprocket?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Or maybe it’s the rear cylinder, the rear one doesn’t have that cam gear (what’s that for?) and the cam chain tensioner is on the same side as mine (is pointed away from the opposite piston).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
After some looking and thinking, I can’t bring myself to buy the aluminum valve covers right now. If they come for sale in Canada sometime I’ll grab em but for now I’m going to leave them. Also, I’m going to do some more research on the decompression and maybe once I find aluminum covers in Canada or my plastic covers start to leak I’ll remove the decompression, do the valves and check the chain tensioner. So for now I’m just going to leave as I don’t want to wreck my valve seal or go into the top end twice, would rather do it once and not touch it for a while.
 

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I was thinking about removing my decompression lever.
Do it, it costs nothing, and can potentially save you an engine.

There are 3-4 threads on this site, recent ones, mine included, that detail how to go about it/what you need to do. Let me see if I can pull 'em up real quick for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

Thanks Bomb!
I read it and from what I got out of it is that I need to remove the cam sprocket and the camshaft, then remove the metal rod in the camshaft that bumps the exhaust valve open when starting so it’s not wiggling around without the decompression thingy on the sprocket.Then remove all the decompression thingys on the cam sprocket. Then put the same 400 cam sprocket back in and use a shorter outlander 800 sprocket bolt on the sprocket.
Is that right or am I missing something?

I also see that jungle man removed part #11 bolts (the ones beside the spark plug), it looks like it has nothing to do with the the valve area so what is the purpose of removing it?
 

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You're over-analyzing this, and I think even "need" is a strong word, lol.

I removed all my "prone to failure/moving" components ( the three I pictured in that post ) and didn't purchase anything new. I re-used my original bolt, just because when I got the impulsive itch to do this, my local dealer didn't have an 800 one in stock.

You don't have to touch the camshaft, and you certainly don't want to remove the cam sprocket, you could throw your mechanical timing off. Take the valve cover off, remove the bolt holding all that crap together, remove the three pieces as shown, and reassemble, torquing the sprocket bolt to spec. It's that easy/simple.

OR, if you have the time to grab the shorter 800cc cam bolt, you can remove the "spacer" hell it's nothing more than a washer now, and bolt the sprocket straight to the gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You're over-analyzing this, and I think even "need" is a strong word, lol.

I removed all my "prone to failure/moving" components ( the three I pictured in that post ) and didn't purchase anything new. I re-used my original bolt, just because when I got the impulsive itch to do this, my local dealer didn't have an 800 one in stock.

You don't have to touch the camshaft, and you certainly don't want to remove the cam sprocket, you could throw your mechanical timing off. Take the valve cover off, remove the bolt holding all that crap together, remove the three pieces as shown, and reassemble, torquing the sprocket bolt to spec. It's that easy/simple.

OR, if you have the time to grab the shorter 800cc cam bolt, you can remove the "spacer" hell it's nothing more than a washer now, and bolt the sprocket straight to the gear.
Yeah, I guess I am over analyzing this. Thought I’d need to remove the camshaft and remove the decompression thing in it, guess not. If it’s that easy I’ll do it very soon. Is it important to get the 800 bolt or is it fine to just use the spacer and the original bolt permanently? I couldn’t view the pictures so I’m not sure what three parts you took out but I’m guessing you took everything off the sprocket, correct? Also any idea what the torque on the sprocket bolt is?

What I understand now is that I need to remove the cam bolt while keep the sprocket on the camshaft lip. Remove all the decompression parts on the sprocket and put the spacer and original bolt back on the sprocket.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ahhhhhh, ok. I think I finally figured this out. I found the parts diagram that Jungleman was looking at to refer the parts.

FBE494FC-2264-4B43-93C0-205159F44D56.png

(I circled all the parts Jungleman said to remove)

I think I’ve got this figured out now. You said I didn’t need anything to do this so could I just keep using the 400 sprocket bolt with the spacer permanently or should I remove the part in front of part 14 and remove 12 to put in a 800 bolt (or is that how you use the 800 bolt?). Just like jungleman I couldn’t find a answer to removing the part 13 shaft, is that necessary to remove as it’ll just sit in there loose?
 

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I think you're going to have a little chuckle, maybe a facepalm moment, when you finally get around to doing this- it's SOOO simple, and will become crystal-clear, what you're going to do, as soon as you pull the valve cover and see what's ahead of you.

I left item #12 in, just because I didn't have immediate access to an 800cc bolt. If you want to get one before doing this, then you could remove it along with 11,13,14.

Are you able to view the video/pics in my thread? They're working for me
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I think you're going to have a little chuckle, maybe a facepalm moment, when you finally get around to doing this- it's SOOO simple, and will become crystal-clear, what you're going to do, as soon as you pull the valve cover and see what's ahead of you.

I left item #12 in, just because I didn't have immediate access to an 800cc bolt. If you want to get one before doing this, then you could remove it along with 11,13,14.

Are you able to view the video/pics in my thread? They're working for me
once I found that diagram I felt stupid and I definitely over analyzed it. Now that I’ve done a bit more research it looks a lot easier than I thought it. I think I’m going to do it today along with valve adjustment and checking the chain tensioner. Then I’ll go to my dealership sometime and pick up a valve cover gasket and the 800 bolt then do the bolt and gasket. Wondering about the plate piece in between part 14 and the bolt and if I’m supposed to remove that when I get the 800 bolt or should I always have that there no matter what bolt?

I’m not able to view any pictures/videos on your post probably because I am using my phone. I’ll try viewing them on my laptop when I get a chance. Thanks for all the help.
 

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Heh, don't sweat it, we're all ignorant until we get a chance to experience what we don't know. I was just as apprehensive going into it. Didn't mean to come across so "heavy-handed", just trying to let you know how simple a task it was/is.

the plate piece in between part 14 and the bolt
That one stays regardless of what bolt, iirc. I wanna say theres a dowel pin on the camshaft that interacts with it and the gear, to hold everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Heh, don't sweat it, we're all ignorant until we get a chance to experience what we don't know. I was just as apprehensive going into it. Didn't mean to come across so "heavy-handed", just trying to let you know how simple a task it was/is.



That one stays regardless of what bolt, iirc. I wanna say theres a dowel pin on the camshaft that interacts with it and the gear, to hold everything.
Thanks for everything, was pretty nervous about getting into this at first but now that I know what to expect and what to do I’m pretty confident I’ll get r’ done.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I took the cover off and looked at the chain tensioner treads...

A82546BE-E9BF-4610-9CDF-D274B5C64D84.jpeg


There is 9.5 threads showing, don’t think that is too good. If the tensioner needs to be replaced no way in hell am I doing it, I’ll take it to can am and have them do it along with my front chaincase oil (the drain plug is stuck).
 
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