Aluminum will always protect better but you pay for that level of protection. So it really depends on the type of riding you do. If your climbing over rocks, then aluminum is the way to go. I have the hard plastic skid on my 570. I mainly trail ride with very few rocks to go over. Mainly logs and brush. So there is little chance of me cracking anything important. That’s just a decision you have to make.

 

Good data. Thanks.

 

Snow can stick and build up on aluminum, it tends to fall off the plastic. Generally not a problem though.

 

Have had BRP aluminum for over a year now and would not change. I prefer to remove the middle skid plate when doing oil changes so ease of removal is a big factor for me.

I have had to straighten out the aluminum a time or two after some hard hits.

 

Kinda surprised I couldn't find any discussion on this.

That's odd, there has been much discussion here on skid plates.

 

Pros and cons with both but either is better than nothing! I'd say either the Can-Am aluminum or the Iron Baltic plastic(HPDE). I went with the Can-Am just because of the fit and finish. Cheers!

 

i have had the Iron Baltic HPDE for several years and can tell you their is no way you can crack them. In my mind the HPDE is better than alum especially if you have to slide over things as alum will gouge and sometimes get stuck on things where the HPDE will just slide. I would never go with alum..

 

as alum will gouge and sometimes get stuck on things where the HPDE will just slide.

I have never 'gotten stuck' on anything with my aluminum plate.

 

i have seen the alum bring guys to a dead stop going over rocks

 

I second vipers sentiments - anything is better than nothing. I too chose plastic (BRP HDPE). Pros and cons to each, you really can't go wrong.

I will add this. If you go with BRP HDPE and plan to plow. Look closely at where they want you to cut. It looked like if I would have followed the instructions and had to remove the plow plate for some reason there wouldn't be anything to support the front of the midsection.

I didn't cut the tab off and only drilled holes to attach the plow plate. Maybe things have changed or maybe I misread the pictures 🤪. Just have a close look before you start cutting. Once it's cut it hard to put it back.

 

I second vipers sentiments - anything is better than nothing. I too chose plastic (BRP HDPE). Pros and cons to each, you really can't go wrong.

I will add this. If you go with BRP HDPE and plan to plow. Look closely at where they want you to cut. It looked like if I would have followed the instructions and had to remove the plow plate for some reason there wouldn't be anything to support the front of the midsection.

I didn't cut the tab off and only drilled holes to attach the plow plate. Maybe things have changed or maybe I misread the pictures 🤪. Just have a close look before you start cutting. Once it's cut it hard to put it back.

Newest hdpe dont need any cutting. It' s cut from factory to work with plow attachment..

 

>>Once it's cut it hard to put it back.

Yup...thanks for the advice. The primary use for my machine is plowing...so I'll take note of your points.

 

The problem with aluminum is that it is soft and literally flows to match the surface of things it strikes which has the effect of maximum friction. I have run the BRP aluminum skid plates on my '13 since new and it deinitely doesn't slide easy over rocks. Protects but drags badly on contact.

 

The problem with aluminum is that it is soft and literally flows to match the surface of things it strikes

Hunh???

 

All good thoughts...thanks everyone. And sorry if I've dug up previous discussion. I searched for "skid plates" sorted by "most recent" and blasted through a bunch of threads.

I'm mostly a trail/firewood/hiking type of rider, and don't do much riding in boulder fields. So I think I'll stick with plastic on the front and Al on the rear arms.

Thanks again.

 

I removed the rear axle plats after one broke. they have the potential to tear the boot when that happens.

 

Iron Baltic hdpe on my 22 xtp and they’re awesome, I don’t think about what’s under the same anymore.

 

I wish I would have looked closer at these before going with the factory stuff. The cost of being a new guy

 

I've have run Aluminum Skids since 1998 on my ATVs. There is no other product that I will trust. I have to re/re skid plates to put track plates on and none are as quick to re/re then the Ricochet Skid Plates period. I don't go out and look for big rocks to run over, but I have never in my 25 years of riding ATVs been stuck on a rock. Might have got stuck in a big mud hole though. Ya they may get scaped up some, but so will the heavy plastic.

 

Hey guys, not sure about the weight difference between Can-Am aluminum or plastic one. My only real thought is that when the aluminum ones get beat up and forms burrs that they might not slide as well. As the plastic would stay a bit more pliable and the burrs would be more flexible.
The aluminum might be more puncture resistant, but would transmit the jarring of hard hits to atv.

 

I would highly recommend a high density plastic like UHMW. Aluminum can get hung up and will inevitably get dinged up and bent. The good UHMW skids will just slide right over rocks and other obstacles, and they prove to be an incredibly helpful tool in rock crawling and rough terrain where you can just belly slide over big stuff without having to worry about anything.

 

I chose Iron Baltic aluminum skids for Alaska use. I am also a fabricator welder with aluminum. Modifications are easily done with aluminum. Never had an issue getting hung up on rocks but have high centered in rotted snow in the spring. To each is his own taste. All are good for particular needs and uses. Better than nothing. My favorite part is how the Iron Baltic protects the outside edges of the floorboards.

 

I've never experienced anyone I've ridin with, including myself, that got hung up on anything because they were using aluminum instead of plastic. That is such mute point/reason to purchase one over the other. Sure coeffeicient of friction on the plastic ones might be slightly better but in the grand scheme of things, it's very small and irrelivant.

I have, however, seen bolts bent or snapped right off of the Iron Baltic units because they are not countersunk and there are a lot of bolts used for that install. Most of the ones on the Can Am plates are out of the way, again fit and finish.

 

>>Most of the ones on the Can Am plates are out of the way, again fit and finish.

Interesting. Is this the case with BRP plastic and AL?

 

Unfortunately, I haven't had any experience with the plastic plates BRP sells.

 

Ok, I'll be sure to ask. It's a good point, thanks.

 

I pulled off severely dented and banged up aluminum plates from a Grizzly and replaced them with a Yamaha Glide Plate. One piece front to back and it held up better than the aluminum. There were no seams, gaps or hardware to catch on anything. I'm hoping the aluminum on the Outlander hold up half as well.

 

Got the can am aluminum one my outlander full setup, no issues. Never had a issue with getting stuck on a rock. Not sure what these folks are talking about they must be trying to perform grind tricks..

Anyone have a clear photo showing what the bracket is supposed to look like that holds the rear section skid onto the chassis? Got my skid second hand but never got around to install this part and lost it.. want to make a bracket that matches OEM look.

 

Have you had a look at the BRP installation instructions for your skid plate, that might provide some images of the bracket.

 

I did, photos are not clear.

You may need to make (or purchase) a rivnut tool. I believe it takes the hex shape rivnuts, not the spline type.

You know, come to think of it I bought a bag of them just to have. If you need 6 or 8 let me know and I'll send them to ya.

Look up the BRP install instructions for that part number. It will give you all the details.

Talking to me? Lol.

the hex nutserts go underfoot supports that hold the footwell protectors. All other items are bolts but can be converted to nutsert for easier removal. You’d use regular spline/round type nutserts for that

 

You may need to make (or purchase) a rivnut tool. I believe it takes the hex shape rivnuts, not the spline type.

You know, come to think of it I bought a bag of them just to have. If you need 6 or 8 let me know and I'll send them to ya.

Look up the BRP install instructions for that part number. It will give you all the details.