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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was installing my new light bar, took the right side plastics off to run the wires to the battery and noticed coolant by the hose fitting on front cylinder and a bit on cylinder, also noticed a bit in the weep hose, bottle is low with only about an inch at the bottom, will bring it in next week since its still covered, heres a pic
Auto part Vehicle Engine Fuel line Car


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Leaky bleeder screw. Easy fix, may just need to snug it up a little more. Try that first then go from there. A couple droplets of coolant in weep hose is normal, especially on a new atv. If it's dripping out of the hose then there's an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ill try that, the weep hose has coolant in it for about 2-3 inches


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I also have a slow coolant leak I just noticed on my 2014 Outlander 800 XT. Mine emptied my resiv completely. Where is this bleeder screw your refering to? I took my right inner fender plastic off to attempt to detect the source of the leak and its above where the dealer connected my winch contactor so i cant really tell where exactly the leak is originating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I also have a slow coolant leak I just noticed on my 2014 Outlander 800 XT. Mine emptied my resiv completely. Where is this bleeder screw your refering to? I took my right inner fender plastic off to attempt to detect the source of the leak and its above where the dealer connected my winch contactor so i cant really tell where exactly the leak is originating.

The bleeder screw is right by the front cylinder on the right side, need to remove the side body plastics to see it


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Can i top it off with regular green antifreeze?


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I had the same issue with my 20013 800 max. turned out I just needed to tighten the bleeder screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I had the same issue with my 20013 800 max. turned out I just needed to tighten the bleeder screw.

Ya it seems it was the bleed screw, it turned pretty easy with a wrench so ill top off the coolant and see what happens


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So here is the issue with this bleeder screw... it is apparantly a very coarse threaded screw and is screwed into plastic, when ever you remove it and try to put it back in I dont think you will ever get a tight seal. Has anyone else noticed this? Why on earth would a bolt not have been used and bolt into a metal female threaded hole to get a good seal? i suspect this design is the reason so many people are having issues becuase A) the coarse threaded screw will vibrate loose way easier from bums and B) this design is not proper for the ANY type of pressurized system. You almost need to use some kind of thread sealent or something to get the screw to fit back in tight because of the wear in the plastic you are screwing into.
 

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I had the same issue with my 20013 800 max. turned out I just needed to tighten the bleeder screw.

Ya it seems it was the bleed screw, it turned pretty easy with a wrench so ill top off the coolant and see what happens


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mine turned easy also but that was due to the fact that I think it was stripped, it wouldnt actually tighten to where I felt it was preventing any seepage from around the screw itself. If you remove te screw you will see that it looks like a wood screw screwed into a plastic hole and the only thing keeping tension on it is the origional threads cut bu the screw itself. Piss poor design if I have ever seen one because you will never achieve a good seal after the frst time its loosened.
 

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The thermo cap is cheap cheap cheap. I've replaced both of mine. One dissolved from the inside out and then split ????????? If you replace the cap, before mounting, carefully screw the bleeder screw in and out a few times to get some threads cut in the cap and to get a feel for when its tight. Easier that way as opposed to mounting it first and then trying to get the bleeder screw in straight.:smilietwocents:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Myself I didn't bother, snugged up the screw and seems to be good since
 

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word to the wise... if filled correctly there is no reason to actually use those bleeder screws when trying to burp air from the coolant system. they make a ridiculous mess and as previously mentioned may continually leak anti-freeze down the road.
 

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word to the wise... if filled correctly there is no reason to actually use those bleeder screws when trying to burp air from the coolant system. they make a ridiculous mess and as previously mentioned may continually leak anti-freeze down the road.
Newbie question, what is the correct way to refill with coolant to avoid having to remove screw? Just did rad relocate and now have to put coolant back in
 

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Guaranteed to never need those bleeders again.
 
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