[Maniac21]

I have a 21' Outlander 850 XT with 500 miles on it. I am wondering what signs I should look for with belt wear.

I know several signs of a worn drive belt such as choppy & higher engagement & the belt slipping. That being said, I do have a slightly higher engagement than it used to be. I also noticed that my top speed isn't what it used to be. I believe that this could be due to my modifications though. (bigger & heavier tires, etc..)

I run my Outlander in the correct gear. Low when slow or severe terrain, and high when averaging 10+ mph on average.

What are the red flags as to when I should change the belt out?

 

[Angore]

You pretty much nailed it .
My old Renegade 500 with HTR's on it has over 6,000 miles on it and it's on belt # 2 . They are built pretty tough unless they get contaminated.

 

[Ducvet]

"They are built pretty tough unless they get contaminated. "

contaminated with what?
water,mud or oil?

 

[Angore]

Either or . If they stay clean , dry and don't get glazed , they can last a long time .

 

[Ducvet]

How about age?
I deal with rubber timing belts that are supposed to be replaced every 2-5 years

 

[Angore]

I'm sure no expert but age could be a factor .
Usually 2x per season , I'll pull my cover , remove the belt , scuff the sheaves with a Scotchbrite then blow everything off . I wash the belt in hot soapy water , rinse thoroughly and air-dry . I'll check the one way while I'm in there too. I only trashed one belt because of my stupidity while reassembling the clutch cover o ring . I pinched it at the bottom. Belt got wet and gouged.

 

[Ducvet]

Got it
So really keep the belt dry and clean if possible, I probably should order a spare gasket.
Before I got the memo that oem belts are best I bought a Ultimax belt I will run it until I need another and likely try oem. Funny I work with engines that need frequent maintenance due to belts and I buy a machine that also seems to need frequent maintenance due to belts. My customers would call that Karma.

 

[Duece]

Aren't timing belts under tension? I think that's why they have a time-based life. Don't they stretch slightly over their lives causing an issue? Clutch belts are so thick, it takes a long time or as Angore said, contamination to really do them harm.

 

[xsever]

What are the red flags as to when I should change the belt out?

The Can-Am service manual calls for replacing the belt when its cord width becomes 30 mm. Brand new, the cord length is 33 mm.

 

[Ducvet]

Yes timing belts are under tension and some times it is the pulley diameter that sets the lifespan (smaller pulley diameter =shorter life). Though I would expect the drive pulleys are under quite a bit of tension based of people shredding them. I did keep the oem belt from 2004 so I have a spare lol.

 

[Tozguy]

What are the red flags as to when I should change the belt out?

Belt inspection is a regular maintenance item. The belt has a service limit as mentioned above so if it gets worn to the limit then it needs changing. Belt inspections should include measuring the width which should give you an idea of your particular belt life. Belt life is more a function of how you ride and how you maintain it. If performance falls off then an inspection comes first. Age is not a criteria in my books.

 

[Angore]

Got it
So really keep the belt dry and clean if possible, I probably should order a spare gasket.
Before I got the memo that oem belts are best I bought a Ultimax belt I will run it until I need another and likely try oem. Funny I work with engines that need frequent maintenance due to belts and I buy a machine that also seems to need frequent maintenance due to belts. My customers would call that Karma.

Yep , that's all I will buy anymore is OE .

 

[Ducvet]

"Belt inspection is a regular maintenance item. "

So do you do it seasonally or based on miles?
Does not look like it takes much time to do but I am still figuring out what needs to be on the list and when. Not expecting high miles so probably will do fall / winter maintenance when I put it away each season.
Check valves
check belt
change oil
change brake fluid
inspect air filter
stabilize fuel
drain carb
fog motor

should I add front and rear diff fluid change or anything else?

 

[Angore]

Fog motor ?
I do my saws and other two stroke suff but I wouldn't suggest fogging your Rotax.

 

[Fishermon]

How about age?
I deal with rubber timing belts that are supposed to be replaced every 2-5 years

That's the Dealer stealing money lol...

 

[Tozguy]

So do you do it seasonally or based on miles?

Actually its greasing the one way in the primary that leads me to open up the CVT.
Then the belt gets a look while the cover is off. Probably twice a year or every 100 hours under normal conditions. My 450 and my style of riding is not hard on belts.

 

[Ducvet]

"I wouldn't suggest fogging your Rotax. "

Curious as to why not?

Fogging protects the valve seats from corroding and losing valve seal when the valves close on the built up corrosion. as we speak some of your valves are open to the atmosphere and if the seat is not protected by something (pump fuel does have some protective qualities) then the seat will start to corrode. Now short term will be no issue as the valve closing should knock off any build up with little to no harm, long term is the issue where the corrosion can gain enough in size to not allow the valve to close or imbed a pit in the valve face. Enough of these and you lose valve seal, performance.

It is a storage issue and meant to be preventative. I have not heard a downside so am genuinely curios what you have heard.

"That's the Dealer stealing money lol... "
Yes it does sound that way if you are not used to the motors, in some cases it may be. Some motors like my old ford ranger or VW it did not matter much if you broke one the engine would simply stop running and all it needed was a fresh belt to return it to service. Other motors are a interference fit and if you break a timing belt you may need an entire motor.

Below is the exhaust seats on my outlander 400, might the seats cleaned up from running the bike ? unlikely as it took quite a while for me to get the seats cleaned up with lapping compound and elbow grease. I would have re-cut them if I had the right size pilot for my valve cutter, I will be ordering one.

 

[Ducvet]

"Actually its greasing the one way in the primary that leads me to open up the CVT. "

Great info.
What type of grease do you use? Antisieze, moly lube or axle grease?

What sign that you have waited too long?
should I have replacement parts on hand when I go in?

Is this turning into too much of a thread hijack that I should start another thread?
Op let me know and I will get out of your thread okay?

 

[Angore]

"I wouldn't suggest fogging your Rotax. "

Curious as to why not?

Fogging protects the valve seats from corroding and losing valve seal when the valves close on the built up corrosion. as we speak some of your valves are open to the atmosphere and if the seat is not protected by something (pump fuel does have some protective qualities) then the seat will start to corrode. Now short term will be no issue as the valve closing should knock off any build up with little to no harm, long term is the issue where the corrosion can gain enough in size to not allow the valve to close or imbed a pit in the valve face. Enough of these and you lose valve seal, performance.

It is a storage issue and meant to be preventative. I have not heard a downside so am genuinely curios what you have heard.

I do it on my 2 strokes to preserve the steel internals , rod , pin , etc as all these will get fogging oil in a charge and ( hopefully ) remain in there for the duration of the storage . Fogging a 4 stroke will coat none of the internals except the ( as you mentioned ) seats , faces the top ring(s) and cylinder walls . Unfortunately it will also leave a sticky film on your IBV , MAT sensor , Injector tips as well as have a ( long term ) effect on any rubber parts in your intake tract , unless you can find pure silicone or synthetic fogging oil .
Not trying to start anything here , just telling you why I don't do it .

 

[Maniac21]

The Can-Am service manual calls for replacing the belt when its cord width becomes 30 mm. Brand new, the cord length is 33 mm.

Thanks for that. I couldn't find that in my manual, but will keep that in mind. I measured my belt. It was 31.53. I changed it out for a new one. I guess I'll keep the other in case I have an unforseen issue develop.