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Great information. Thank you!
Symptoms of a worn belt.
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If someone made a Youtube video on greasing a one way bearing, I'd watch it again and again. I don't know what/where that is or how to do that.
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439 Posts
"Not trying to start anything here , just telling you why I don't do it . "
No worries remember I am trying to learn here, I may not agree with you but I want your opinion/experience otherwise I would not ask.
Thank you!
Been doing it for over 25 years on motorcycles(all 4-stroke) , learned at the dealership. Never have seen a problem with injectors,sensors, rubber parts etc but it may be in the type used (aerosol fogging oil) It sounds like you are using something heavy? As well as how it is introduced. we fog through the intake with the machine running or if possible straight into the intake tract often through a sync port or vapor recovery line. It is mandatory on anything running race fuel and we always do it in the fall when the bikes will sleep for 6 months.
No need on these machines for pistons , rings etc as the nikasil and rings will be fine it is really to preserve the valve seal and prevent needing to pull heads and cut seats.I would want iron lined cylinders to be protected to prevent rust rings and sticking. I get that atv's do not get much love (based on the care of used ones I see) so performance is not often top priority but the time to fog is minutes vs a potential loss of what power it does have seems worth the risk. Hey look at it this way I am happy to be your guinea pig , fresh seats and valve faces . No injection here so I assume I will not suffer any failures with those components.
What is a IBV?
No worries remember I am trying to learn here, I may not agree with you but I want your opinion/experience otherwise I would not ask.
Thank you!
Been doing it for over 25 years on motorcycles(all 4-stroke) , learned at the dealership. Never have seen a problem with injectors,sensors, rubber parts etc but it may be in the type used (aerosol fogging oil) It sounds like you are using something heavy? As well as how it is introduced. we fog through the intake with the machine running or if possible straight into the intake tract often through a sync port or vapor recovery line. It is mandatory on anything running race fuel and we always do it in the fall when the bikes will sleep for 6 months.
No need on these machines for pistons , rings etc as the nikasil and rings will be fine it is really to preserve the valve seal and prevent needing to pull heads and cut seats.I would want iron lined cylinders to be protected to prevent rust rings and sticking. I get that atv's do not get much love (based on the care of used ones I see) so performance is not often top priority but the time to fog is minutes vs a potential loss of what power it does have seems worth the risk. Hey look at it this way I am happy to be your guinea pig , fresh seats and valve faces . No injection here so I assume I will not suffer any failures with those components.
What is a IBV?
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439 Posts
"If someone made a Youtube video on greasing a one way bearing, I'd watch it again and again. I don't know what/where that is or how to do that. "
There are videos of people servicing the primary and I am sure it is in one of those if I come across one I will link it here.
There are videos of people servicing the primary and I am sure it is in one of those if I come across one I will link it here.
I believe the servicing of the one-way is an older approach to the open-faced OE bearings that actually allowed for cleaning and re-greasing.
Almost every "newer" version of the one-way bearing(s) are now a double-sealed bearing, no real way to "service" them, apart from just replacing, which is simply easier to me anyway, if you're in there.
Almost every "newer" version of the one-way bearing(s) are now a double-sealed bearing, no real way to "service" them, apart from just replacing, which is simply easier to me anyway, if you're in there.
Typically, yeah, but it's hard to even find any OE bearings in service anymore, to compare lifespan.
The main giveaway that your one-way bearing(s) are going out is shifting will become more of a chore. As they tighten up and "go out", the secondary will be driven faster and faster, leading to difficulty shifting.
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1,565 Posts
If you're going to attempt the one way ,
Be extra careful when removing it from the snout . There are 2 caps with springs that engage the one way shell to the snout . Pull gently tword you and follow the twist . Once it starts to walk away from the inner sheave , wrap a shop towel around the space that's being created , and carefully remove .
They'll fly across the garage and disappear forever.
As far as greasing the bearings , all I have ever seen are the sealed ones and I just replace them if they feel rough.
Some may frown on this but when reassembling I always put a VERY light coat of Mystic red high speed bearing grease on the part of the snout where the bearing rides and on the friction washer . I emphasize VERY light.
Be extra careful when removing it from the snout . There are 2 caps with springs that engage the one way shell to the snout . Pull gently tword you and follow the twist . Once it starts to walk away from the inner sheave , wrap a shop towel around the space that's being created , and carefully remove .
They'll fly across the garage and disappear forever.
As far as greasing the bearings , all I have ever seen are the sealed ones and I just replace them if they feel rough.
Some may frown on this but when reassembling I always put a VERY light coat of Mystic red high speed bearing grease on the part of the snout where the bearing rides and on the friction washer . I emphasize VERY light.
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1,282 Posts
There once was an awesome vid on oneway service, but it seems to have disappeared. But here's a good historical thread:
How to Install aftermarket Bearings in the ONEWAY....
How to Install aftermarket Bearings in the ONEWAY....
The parts that need servicing are the two spring loaded pawls (sleeves) that ride in the space between the ball bearings. These slide in a groove that has ramps. The first time that you do the procedure you will understand the mechanism. The ball bearings themselves if sealed don't need servicing.
The service manual is very clear on this procedure and recommends Topas grease. It was not easy to swallow the price tag of the Topas but I did not want to out-guess BRP. Others have used a substitute which they may be happy with.
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1,565 Posts
Topaz ?
I have never heard it called that before .
Just Googled it . I have been educated.
Topas
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1,565 Posts
I have 2 (two) tubes of Isoflex . I used a finger full of one of them on my one way early on in my Can Am life and the crap got slung all over my primary . I put the cap back on it and it's been there ever since .Topas seemed to be too expensive to be spelled with an S but I stand corrected. Thanks.
I use Mystic red high speed bearing grease .
Maybe I'll try a bit of Echo bar & chain lube next time. It stays put on my 8k + RPM antique McCullough saw .
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439 Posts
Interesting I wonder how much the Isoflex is designed more for the extreme low temperature vs say a more conventional grease. It may not be a pressure rating they were after but a -50C rating for snowmobile use. Some may need / want extreme cold whatever you use for lube I would pay attention to the temperature rating.
TOZ what manual is that from I also want to say my machine did not have the plastic washer between the spring cup and bearing. Now you guys have me heading back in to the primary since I am so close. If anyone wants a picture of anything specific in there let me know, it will take a while before I get back to it but should be withing the week. NOw I will need to decide if I am ordering the plastic washer or not for my model that I do not think was there from the factory.
Well at least it was not all together yet anyway but I think this is the second time a thread has popped up about a week AFTER I did something and has changed my mind....lol
TOZ what manual is that from I also want to say my machine did not have the plastic washer between the spring cup and bearing. Now you guys have me heading back in to the primary since I am so close. If anyone wants a picture of anything specific in there let me know, it will take a while before I get back to it but should be withing the week. NOw I will need to decide if I am ordering the plastic washer or not for my model that I do not think was there from the factory.
Well at least it was not all together yet anyway but I think this is the second time a thread has popped up about a week AFTER I did something and has changed my mind....lol
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439 Posts
So back to add parts to my order I looked at the 2004 outlander 400 and no plastic washer. looking all years of 400 and 450 these parts fiche show the 400/450 never used the plastic washer. It seems the 650 and up did use it so I am not sure what the purpose yet.
At the same time I noticed they do not call for Isoflex at that time buy Loctite 767 for the same location so there was a change there as well.
Here is the 767 which is a antiseize not sure if the isoflex was found to be better in wear, function or cost.
At the same time I noticed they do not call for Isoflex at that time buy Loctite 767 for the same location so there was a change there as well.
Here is the 767 which is a antiseize not sure if the isoflex was found to be better in wear, function or cost.
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