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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
***UPDATE***

2013 Outlander 650XT

The throttle is sticking. Luckily, it happened in a wide open field. Going around 25....will not idle down. I kept opening and closing the throttle and nothing. Got it back in garage

If I start it in neutral, it idles at 1250...rev the engine up and it sticks...then I hit the kill switch. When I restart it without touching the throttle it idles at 1250...until I give it gas again.

This leads me to believe its some sort of sensor in the fuel injection system? I have not taken anything apart so I don't know if its as simple as a stuck cable...and I don't know how the fuel injection system works. But the fact that when it sticks...shut machine off and restart without touching throttle and its back to idle....leads me to believe its not a cable that is staying open.

Any ideas? Thanks!!!
 

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Have you ever lubed the cable? Part of the routine maintenance. Should be a link on here somewhere to download a service manual. Worth it's weight in gold.
 

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Have you ever lubed the cable? Part of the routine maintenance. Should be a link on here somewhere to download a service manual. Worth it's weight in gold.
x2 and if you have snow or ice or debris accumulation on the throttle assembly.
 

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I can't believe there isn't a throttle safety switch in there? All the older Polaris stuff even had them, so if the throttle hung, it shut down.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have never lubed the cable. I will but do not think that is it. Why would it return to idle rpm after shutting it down?

And this is a 2013 machine that is stored in a heated garage. Only has about 600 miles on it.
 

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I agree that it doesn't sound like a stuck cable, although I'm not really sure of where else to look.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk so please excuse my fat finger syndrome.
 

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I can't believe there isn't a throttle safety switch in there? All the older Polaris stuff even had them, so if the throttle hung, it shut down.
There's a kill switch for your left hand.
 

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Need to test the throttle position sensor. (TPS)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I took the airbox off....that was fun,,,to see if the flapper was sticking...nope. I loosened and tightened the throttle cable. No difference. Everything seems to work smoothly and as it should. I'm at a loss. Now I'm hoping its the TPS and not something more expensive....

I give up. Its going to the dealer.
 

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Find the tps and ohm it out with a multimeter, it has a range it supposed to be within. Every sensor does. If your dealer is worth anything and wants repeat business he will look it up and tell you. Also bring up your stripped gearcase plug. Seems like lots of guys use drills with the "clutch" set to speed up the assembly of stuff. Good luck!
 

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it is a mechanical throttle body. Only a sticking cable or throttle plate can cause it to go WFO. If the plate is closed the efi can add all the fuel it wants, with the plate closed it gets no air and can only flood out, NOT go WFO! Spray some throttle body cleaner in the TB and TB plate area. Lube the cable. Could be moisture in there, maybe freezing.
 

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There is a position sensor. Position Sensor
270000251
 

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it is a mechanical throttle body. Only a sticking cable or throttle plate can cause it to go WFO. If the plate is closed the efi can add all the fuel it wants, with the plate closed it gets no air and can only flood out, NOT go WFO! Spray some throttle body cleaner in the TB and TB plate area. Lube the cable. Could be moisture in there, maybe freezing.

He never said it went WFO... Throttle just won't come back to idle. Sounds like TPS or a sticking idle bypass valve.


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IAC sticking would probably stall. still think it's cable or plate.

That's not true. It can very well be getting hung up at a certain spot and won't return fully until the voltage is completely shut off to it. Hence why it idles fine when the machine is shut of and restarted. A stuck cable or throttle plate wouldn't do that. Restarting the machine wouldn't have any effect on that.


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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Thank you for all these suggestions. If on restart it went back to high idle I would say its a stuck throttle plate or cable. But it goes right back to 1250. Every time. One of the mechanics at work said the TPS may have been dislodged slightly. I think it needs to get connected to BUDS to see exactly whats going on.

And its been in a heated garage all winter. No freezing. If I have it WFO it doesn't stay there. It will drop down to about 1/3 throttle. Opening and closing throttle does not help.
 

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Idle speed is not adjustable. The ECM controls the idle speed of the engine primarily through control of the throttle plate position.
Did the TPS come loose? If you ever touch the TPS it must go back to dealer to be reset via BUDS.
Also never adjust the sealed idle stop screw. It's set from the factory.
 

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Idle speed is not adjustable. The ECM controls the idle speed of the engine primarily through control of the throttle plate position.
Did the TPS come loose? If you ever touch the TPS it must go back to dealer to be reset via BUDS.
Also never adjust the sealed idle stop screw. It's set from the factory.

Just curious how the ECM controls a throttle plate via a mechanical cable? I'm gonna go out on a limb and say it's controlled by the idle bypass valve, which sounds just like an IAC valve to me.


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Discussion Starter #19
No. The TPS has never been loose...to my knowledge. However, the throttle was "stuck" once this winter. I had to use some force to get it to move. Why? I don't know. It worked smoothly after that. I thought maybe after a few months of sitting it just stuck. I'm thinking maybe I jarred something out of adjustment when freeing the throttle?
 

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I'm not saying that the TPS is the problem, because I'm not there to diagnosis it personally, but a buddy of mine he'd the same exact thing happen to him on his 2011 650 outlander xt and it was the TPS. So he put a new one on and it fixed it
 
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