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What are the symptoms of a bad u joint, how it feels while driving...
U joint
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if its really loose you can feel a vibration. easiest way to check is grab in at the joint and see if there is any play up and down movement, should be next to none. i would check all the bolts after every ride that connects them to the diff and through shafts as well. they come loose and can back out all together, very common, i also use lock tight on them its a must for sure.
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I just picked up some high quality u joints from canamparts guy. Gotta get my drive shaft out and swap them.
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The vibrations come from the muffler, the small rubbers on the muffler holder (anti vibration rubber) are melted from the heat, so there is friction of the metal, I can't find those rubbers, did anyone have an idea how to solve this
Which brand did you buy from canamparts guy? Spicer, Neapco, or the OEM ones? and why? Thanks.
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These:u joints high quality
I opted for these per Jared from can am parts guy. The zerks are on the outside vs being between the yolks. These make greasing easier!
Thank you for the prompt response. Since these fit on your 2017 XT, they should fit fine on my 2016. Can you please confirm? And how many miles have you had on them so far?
I'm debating between aftermarket and OEM and from what I've read, OEM seems best but I also know that Jared only sells quality stuff.
Any insight would be highly appreciated.
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I would imagine so yes, it shows it fits all v twins. I have put 500 miles on roughly since I redid them. WAY easier to grease/service. Id also suggest replacing your wear ring since you''ll have the drive shaft out. I used a cut off wheel to cut if off. Then a press to press it back on. Make sure you put it back on the RIGHT way.
Jared knows his stuff, he's local to me and fantastic to deal with.
I need my rear shocks rebuilt, they are leaking oil terribly bad...
Well noted. So although the description says rear u-joint, I believe that covers both u-joint a between the gearbox and the rear diff since the parts diagram shows the same part number.I would imagine so yes, it shows it fits all v twins. I have put 500 miles on roughly since I redid them. WAY easier to grease/service. Id also suggest replacing your wear ring since you''ll have the drive shaft out. I used a cut off wheel to cut if off. Then a press to press it back on. Make sure you put it back on the RIGHT way.
Jared knows his stuff, he's local to me and fantastic to deal with.
I need my rear shocks rebuilt, they are leaking oil terribly bad...
Mine are still fine but since I have over 6000 miles on my machine, I was thinking of buying and keeping them at home so that if they fail, I won't face a long downtime. If I should tackle the wear ring when that happens, I'll buy it too.
I bought the HD bolts for the clutches from Jared btw.
I've done this job before with the front diff so I'm familiar with it. When I did it, I replaced both the wear ring and the oil seal. Shall I also change the oil seal for the rear diff when I perform this job?
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I've had my rear prop shaft off 2x times now and haven't replaced my rear main seal yet. 1 time to replace rear diff with mud n wheels, second time due to finding one bad u joint. I am going to probably kick myself for not doing it. We'll see.
The u joint I sent will be the same u joint for both joints on the rear prop shaft/drive shaft.
6k miles and factory u joints? That's awesome! Have you checked them for play at all? Do you still have the stock rear diff also?
Yes. Factory u-joints. I bought the machine used from a mechanic who is the original owner so I'm sure he was always on top of maintenance and always greased them. The quad never went through any deep mud mind you.
I checked them for play 2 weekends ago and they're solid. No play at all. I grease them as often as I can so every 500km say. Yes I still have the stock rear diff.
I'm really lost whether I should go with the OEM u-joints which have lasted me this long or go with the cheaper made in japan high quality ones you refered me to.
I emailed Jared and asked him. He said both are a great option. Go figure.
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Well, ease of maintenance here is a win for me... Truth be told, I didn't know the front joint had a zerk. Which is why it failed. I ride water and mud alot. Anyway, now that front one gets grease just as much as the back one, and the rest of the zerks. I try to grease after every ride.
Thanks a lot for all your input. It is much appreciated. I wish more users on the forum were using these made in japan high quality u-joints so that we know how they compare to OEM ones. I really don't mind greasing the OEM ones since I have a smaller grease adapter that fits very easily with the zerk. I'll probably make up my mind today.
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No problem! This place should be used as a tool for people who have questions. I love forums.
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Same here. I try to help and share as much as my time allows.
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