[sscard]

can am timing is done counter clockwise
set the rear cylinder (1-2) then counter clockwise to (1-1)
as far as the perfect spot to set valves lol, these heads can be set sitting on the bench, the gap between lobes is about 30 degrees (a guess but thats about how far you can turn a relaxed can am head that does not have a chain on it)
the only reason you would not want to turn that motor would be if your timin was off, other than that turning it backwards causes zero issues, the chain does not have a tight side, if it did you would need to change the chains before it jumps time and trahses your valves

 

[Walrus800]

Are you saying start with the #2 jug, and if so what diff does it make.

 

[sscard]

the correct way to set timing is start with number 2
per the can am manual

I have no idea why its timed like that but that is the way the book says to do it
I have done it that way every time I have done one and yet to have a problem

if you are setting timing I would assume that if you started with 1 you could turn it clockwise to 2 but that is not what the book says to do

 

[Walrus800]

the correct way to set timing is start with number 2
per the can am manual

I have no idea why its timed like that but that is the way the book says to do it
I have done it that way every time I have done one and yet to have a problem

if you are setting timing I would assume that if you started with 1 you could turn it clockwise to 2 but that is not what the book says to do

I did #1 first. Only difference I see is if you started with #2, then you would need to cycle the chain around more to get #1 to TDC.

 

[mongoose]

again, you start with #2 cause that is where the crankthrow for the locking pin is. and Rene1 made a good point and that is the Mag bolt. i am almost certain that the "Can-Am clunk" at idle is a loose Mag rotor banging against the crank key. it sounds like a lowerend bearing at idle.

so, because i have the lock pin (bolt) just threaded out to turn to #1 TDC, the final step is to spin the engine clockwise to check the work, then lock the crank again and torque the Mag Bolt/cam sprockets/set chain tensioners and torque primary clutch bolt. there are details and personal preferences you will develop but it must start with the basics.

 

[Walrus800]

again, you start with #2 cause that is where the crankthrow for the locking pin is. and Rene1 made a good point and that is the Mag bolt. i am almost certain that the "Can-Am clunk" at idle is a loose Mag rotor banging against the crank key. it sounds like a lowerend bearing at idle.

so, because i have the lock pin (bolt) just threaded out to turn to #1 TDC, the final step is to spin the engine clockwise to check the work, then lock the crank again and torque the Mag Bolt/cam sprockets/set chain tensioners and torque primary clutch bolt. there are details and personal preferences you will develop but it must start with the basics.

Do you have a pic of the locking bolt location? See if I got this right. Put in locking bolt. Rock engine to get it set to TDC on #2. Adjust #2 valves. Rotate engine backwards 280* verified by a degree wheel to get to TDC on #1. Set Valves. Then check work. Also, retorque Mag Bolt because you probably loosened it by rotating engine backwards. Without a degree wheel, TDC on #1 is a guess at best? This seems like rocket science to me.

 

[Over50]

Walrus, you done right first time, your valve setting gap is good i am sure, this is another thing, I was just saying about turning motor back wards and yes the reason to start at #2 is the location for the locking pin bolt to match up with crank notch, no notch at #1 position. The things you learn from a post and a little research and helpfull posters, got to like it, everyone.

36 Hp VW with mechanical advance, been there done that.

 

[Walrus800]

Walrus, you done right first time, your valve setting gap is good i am sure, this is another thing, I was just saying about turning motor back wards and yes the reason to start at #2 is the location for the locking pin bolt to match up with crank notch, no notch at #1 position. The things you learn from a post and a little research and helpfull posters, got to like it, everyone

Well, you start second guessng yourself. Why all the second and third chances to get the TDC right? I mean, TDC for #2 seems stright forward enough. But why put the marks on the cam sprockets? And why put the #1 and #2 in the sensor sight hole? If all you had to do was lock up the crack, and put a degree wheel on, why all the second chance marks to get it right? To me, if you get the timing marks right, yes with a block of some kind or measure with a ruler or by dead eye dick sight, and you center the #1 or #2 in the sensor hole, not just so you can see it but really center it, it's gotta be TDC isn't it?

 

[lunatic]

The base circle of the cam is huge. As long as your not on the up ramp or down ramp you can set your valves. You guys are making this way more complicated than it really is. Example align the flats of the cam sprocket turn motor in either direction check valve clearance then rotate back past and check it . The freaking base circle of the cam is perfectly round. The margin of error is big either side of top dead center. Putting in the locator pin and using degree wheels is going to get the exact same results.

 

[Walrus800]

That's what I was getting at. I've never had trouble. Those marks are there for a reason. They are tools to help get to TDC. Locking it up is an option, but probably not needed.

 

[nitro570]

Now I`m a little confused, it seems pretty straight foreward on the sticky,so wich method is the correct way to do it,this is an important task,which method does a reputable dealer use? The first method is fairly simple the sticky method the second way is a little more confusing and time consuming.

 

[Walrus800]

I'm thinking sticky. There are times when you want to lock up the crank, but not neccesary for valves. Otherwise, why put the #2 in the sight hole or timing marks on the #2 cam sprocket. Seems redundant.

 

[rene1]

it really doesn;t matter about the crank position, when you line up the 2 marks on the cam sproket to be level with the head, the cam(which is what is really all that is important), is in the TDC position. meaning both valves are closed, and the cam is in the upmost center position for setting valves.
doing this, it doens;t matter about guide wear, chain stretch, loose tensioners etc....the cam is exactly where it needs to be....go to work.

 

[Walrus800]

Thanks rene. Maybe we can put this to rest now. Maybe.

 

[Over50]

Maybe,
but then my curious mind asks,
if we can use the lines on the cam gear alone to set the proper position the cam should be to set valve gap why does Can Am have the proceedure that the CPS sensor be removed and line up the 1 or 2 to a notch on magneto cover, as lunatic pointed out there is enough room on the cam that is off the lobe ramp that to be dead on accurate is not nessesary to do the valve gap job. I am just wondering if Can Am is wanting us to look deeper if in doing there proceedure of line up the 1 or 2 mark to notch that if the lines on the cam gear do not line to be parallel with the head.
I will gladly use the cam gear marks as rene1 has show knowing as lunatic said there is lots of room on flats of cam so no need for concern, thanks for this easy to do tip rene1.

 

[rene1]

You can set proper valve lash with the heads removed sitting on the bench.... Can-am manual explains useing the crank.. As that is the most effective way to turn the engine over... And to set actual timing of the engine when disasbled. Do it how ever you guys feel... Either way you do it, your only lining up the cam in the proper position.. That is it!

 

[BigOutlaw]

I agree here, with a mechanical lifter/cam setup you can do this on the bench! Your cam gear is mounted...to the cam. So if your reading your cam gears marking correctly you will be at the proper position to perform your lash adjustments.

It doesn't matter what the crank or chains are doing as they don't even need to be there. However if you TDC your Cam Gears and there "is" an alignment problem with the lower end...well you've got a problem as your OUT OF TIME. You'll see this all the time with cars and timing belts, This is exactly how you find out if you DID IT WRONG. You line up your cams, lock em and check your bottom end. If you can't line up your cams (Your a tooth off on either the exhaust or intake) If you can't line up the crank (Your off on the crank) and so on.

TDC your cam gears, lock em perform your lash and your outta there. Theres nothing specific to Can Am here just engine knowledge in general. (With regards to OHC's anyways) :tools1:

 

[Walrus800]

Maybe,
but then my curious mind asks,
if we can use the lines on the cam gear alone to set the proper position the cam should be to set valve gap why does Can Am have the proceedure that the CPS sensor be removed and line up the 1 or 2 to a notch on magneto cover, as lunatic pointed out there is enough room on the cam that is off the lobe ramp that to be dead on accurate is not nessesary to do the valve gap job. I am just wondering if Can Am is wanting us to look deeper if in doing there proceedure of line up the 1 or 2 mark to notch that if the lines on the cam gear do not line to be parallel with the head.
I will gladly use the cam gear marks as rene1 has show knowing as lunatic said there is lots of room on flats of cam so no need for concern, thanks for this easy to do tip rene1.

We need the 1 or 2 along with the marks because there is a 50-50 chance that the 1 or 2 will be visible with the marks indicating TDC and a 50-50 chance the numbers won't be there when the marks are parallel.. Remember this is a 4 stroke.

 

[BigOutlaw]

Pull plugs, rise Cyl one to TDC, verify cam gear for fine tune and set...repeat for bank 2....DONE

 

[Over50]

Walrus, close but just 1 thing, the cam turns 1/2 the speed of the crank in the 4 strokes. so the cam gear marks will only be parallel to the head at the right TDC