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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Got some more Can Am goodies for the ATV's and the SxS's

VFJ fully adjustable weights and spring kit.:aniwheeler6:

These weights have massive adjustability from 34.5 to 46 gram covering 650-800-1000cc's in the Renegade, Outlander and even the Commander 1000.



Above you can see These adjustable weights can be bolted from either side. With these weights you can add and subtract mass from Mid and Tip areas of the flyweight. These use ultra high quality screw in fasteners both steel and billet aluminum, screw in, screw out. There is nothing to drill out and replace or purchace again if you want to really test and tune until you are satisfied.

The Base Curve at the beginning of the ramp will lessen higher rate stall engagments but still give you that low and mid punch these clutches need vs the stock weights.

This pic shows them with the fasteners that are included and will cover most all increments inbetween 34.5 to 46 grams, they are adjusted with the included bolts and washers of various weights and sizes included in the kit

Here's what you get:

3x Adjustable arms base weight 34.5 grams
12x Aluminum bolt head fasteners 0.8 grams each
12x Steel fasteners bolt head 2.15 grams each
12x Thin steel washers 0.5 grams each
6x Thicker steel washers 1.5 grams each
3x Tungsten washers 3.5 grams each



I have some primary springs ready but will be doing some testing before I finalize rates. I have been running my VFJ#5 kawy spring for months and I have made a thinner diameter can am replacment 60/160 which seems to do very well in the 800 as well as the 1000. I have optional larger rate secondaries for bigger tires as well. I am working on the 1000 torsion spring secondary spring as well, but I feel it may not be needed unless you run very large tires or pull heavy loads.

I'm still doing some testing (dyno and asphalt drag strip 1/4 mile) before everything is finalized this weekend while my motor is still stock.

The weights and all adjusters will be 200.00 :yahoo:
springs are 25.00 each :th_smiliethumbsup:


John
 

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Nice work. Can't wait to see some results compared to stock.
 

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Yes Sir that is always what happens when you make plans, heh heh heh. Hope you get some good weather.
 

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John did you ever get the results?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes they definatly worked. I have them in a few 1000's already with stock 25 to to 29 inch tires and they are working great.

i also have a few different ways to set them up per different tire you have.

I also lowered the price on them to 200.00 as I got better pricing for having more made up.

unless you have larger than 29 inch tires. just bolting in the weights alone will set your RPM wherever you want it. it also engages so much smoother due to the lower ramp of my weights. larger than 29's and I have an optional primary spring to install.

this can set your shiftout rpm anywhere from 6600 rpm (set up heaviest) to 7600 rpm (set up lightest)

I find piped machines that are tuned correctly like 7200-7400 shiftout pending tire size and tread. stock machines like the 7100-7200 range.

shiftoing out over 7400 rpm is really a waste of time as it lowers the rwhp. but with larger tires like 28-29 it really helps the low range and tire spin ability from 0-40 mph where a mud setup would run at.

John
 

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So stock bike with stock tires you would just switch out the weights? Do you machine the clutchs like the Brutes like I had John? and does it really improve it. Im not going to change my tires but would love more holeshot
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, just switch out the weights. I was making springs as well for the primary. but... why up the primary spring tension then make the adjustments in the weights heavier to compensate?? this way it saves money and the end result is the same and it can hit any target RPM you want to. there is far more adjustment in these weights that the stock primary spring is more than sufficient until you get to larger tires 29.5+ and I can't fit any 30- 32's on it without taking off the floor boards to test.

I cannot machine the 1000 clutches and really gain anything. Belt already goes up and out of the clutch, so you can't add overdrive. and sheave angles are very good the way they are and you can't mod the spider like the kawasaki's as the spider is what locks the sheave down to the centershaft of the fixed sheave.


I do have a kawasaki clutch with a welded spider I am going to retrofit to the can am once I bore the crank taper larger. This guaranteed will be hands down better than the stocker and rid the one way bearing and start off better holeshot. BUT....It may lessen the top speed as it's smaller in diameter. just something to try

John
 

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Sweet I think im going to get some of the weights in the spring Jack and I may be taking a trip to see you as he is thinking of Nitrous for his prairie and wants to have it dyno'd
 

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Discussion Starter #12
how do u think this will do for my xmr1000? on 30x9 SB

I have been told they are working very well. Just the weights and primary spring change was all that was necesssary on the XMR. No secondary spring change was necessary to run a set of silverback 32's on a 2013 xmr all else bone stock.

John
 

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Do you have kits for a 2011 Outlander X XC im using stock size tires just looking for improved bottom and midrange..are they pretty much ready to go outta the box I don't have much time for tuning..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The bottom and midrange is where you notice it most. top end stays about the same as they can both hit the speed limiter on bikes I have tested

with the outlander your stock weights are 38 grams, this kit will help. I would run them about 36 grams with a mid and tip adjuster and you can adjust from there if necessary. this will raise the rpm out of the hole and jump to rpm faster while lessening engagment rpm.

John
 

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Did you ever mess with the clutch in a 650 outlander? I would like to get more bottom end like a brute force. I mostly use it for trail riding and plowing snow but I like acceleration. What do you recommend?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
reason these don't have the bottom end of a brute is the 1 way bearing. this starts th ebelt up too high in the primary and you loose the low end gearing.

only way to get that (brute force low end) affect is to lower the starting ratio with a clutch like cvtech, stm, or qsc.

I tried to get a kawy clutch on there, but the spacing is just too far off on the atv clutch and the Teryx clutch is too deep. The spider would have to be welded or bolted on somehow to prevent unscrewing.

John
 

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I really don't want to drop the money for a new primary. It doesn't bother me that much. Do the clutch kits do anything to help the bottom end? I am considering going up an inch in tires size for a little more ground clearance.
 
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