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Discussion Starter #21
So I have a new diff on the way, new u joint, new yolk and wear ring just in case mine has one. Going to be a big task but I’ll handle it. Pissed it lasted 1600 miles!

I did talk to mud n wheels a ton and I flat out asked him what made his diff better. He said they buy them new and pull them apart and “make them better”. Well I couldn’t justify another $150 for that statement. Same seals, same bearings. Only failure on my current one is the pinion bearing and seal. So just picked up another can am diff. I’ll be watching my diff seal much more closely!!!!! I grease every zerk after every water ride.

Melted 2 vent lines too... that really sucks. Already fixed the gearbox vent and will be changing that fluid. Other vent is the weep hole. New tube on the way. Weep hole vent tube was my own dumb routing.


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So I have a new diff on the way, new u joint, new yolk and wear ring just in case mine has one. Going to be a big task but I’ll handle it. Pissed it lasted 1600 miles!

I did talk to mud n wheels a ton and I flat out asked him what made his diff better. He said they buy them new and pull them apart and “make them better”. Well I couldn’t justify another $150 for that statement. Same seals, same bearings. Only failure on my current one is the pinion bearing and seal. So just picked up another can am diff. I’ll be watching my diff seal much more closely!!!!! I grease every zerk after every water ride.

Melted 2 vent lines too... that really sucks. Already fixed the gearbox vent and will be changing that fluid. Other vent is the weep hole. New tube on the way. Weep hole vent tube was my own dumb routing.


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The backlash spec is why the diffs keep failing. M&W takes apart the new diffs and re-shims to their spec, not BRPs spec.
 

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The backlash spec is why the diffs keep failing. M&W takes apart the new diffs and re-shims to their spec, not BRPs spec.
That's a pretty interesting statement.
I wonder just what BRP's tolerance is here opposed to the aftermarket one .
 

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The backlash setting is causing leaky rear diff seals, or total diff failure? I can see if the shaft is wobbling, it will wear out seal. My diff seems perfect, when full. I hope I dont have to replace more than the shaft, and real seal.

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Discussion Starter #26
I am thinking I can rebuild my rear diff, replacing the pinion bearing looks easy with the correct pinion nut tool. I might end up rebuilding my old one and selling it or keeping it. I wonder if M&W would rebuild my old one. I'd have to contact them.

Anyway, I got a new can am rear diff. 1 day shipping since CANAM PARTS GUY is so close to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The backlash spec is why the diffs keep failing. M&W takes apart the new diffs and re-shims to their spec, not BRPs spec.
I wish he would have just told me that... I would have purchased from them.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
So, change in plans. Going to ship can am factory diff back (well just drop it off). I just ordered a Mudd N Wheels built diff. Guy was super nice and helped me out a bit in this crappy situation. Should have the new g 2.0 diff next week!

Thanks for the input guys.

Going to remove my drive shaft and check it too. If it's clocked I'll get it to a driveshaft local shop to fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
$850. $150 more than the factory can am diff. Guess the tolerances for the factory can am are not good. They are put together quite poorly. Mud N Wheels fixes that. Will come ready to install aside diff fluid (which makes sense.)

I will replace the wear ring and u joint as well (have them in hand).


Coupled with a full rear suspension bushing swap out from garage products... I'm going to send the living piss out of this once it's back together!!
 

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There is slight play in shaft at rear diff. The only drive problem. I'm getting the mud,n,wheels shaft, seal kit at end of riding season. Thanks for the 2 u joint clarity, wish it would solve the problem though, eh. All parts I use are after market. I have no trust in brp.
my ip birthday wishes tneb
Sensing a pattern here............went for a nice run on Saturday, (101 km) found this after a visual inspection at home:
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I don’t see a pic???


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Discussion Starter #35
Can't wait to share the pic next week when I have it all tore apart. I'll call it my messterpiece.

Really it won't be all that bad I don't think. I'm going to put bellows on my diffs and possibly gear box. Sounds like a person can run them on the gearbox per CANAMPARTSGUY's listing. I need to make a heat shield for the gearbox vent or bellow (depending on what route I go...stay vent line or go to bellow).
 

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We'll add me back to the list. Two months ago diff seal and seal at the gearbox were replaced cuz of leaks. Riding yesterday stopped at intersection and me and my buddies could smell gear oil. Sure enough the seal at the gearbox leaking badly and gear oil all over everything. Back to the shop it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
We'll add me back to the list. Two months ago diff seal and seal at the gearbox were replaced cuz of leaks. Riding yesterday stopped at intersection and me and my buddies could smell gear oil. Sure enough the seal at the gearbox leaking badly and gear oil all over everything. Back to the shop it goes.
reading this pissed me off. sorry bud.

on a more positive note garage products bushings showed up!! not sure how to replace sway bar bushings... will have to look at them. I know those go failry fast and squeak. People use these GP bushings and never have another issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Here’s what $100 in bushings look like... lol



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Discussion Starter #40
Where is the rest!?
LOL! the rear set is $100. Front set is like $115. They are expensive but apparently they last forever and require little greasing. I'll still grease the piss out of them. Only thing extra I have to take apart to replace these while doing my rear diff is the upper link and the sway bar bolts. Seems like since I'll be in there that deep I should just replace them. Apparently these Mud N Wheels diffs are the way to go. I've done more reading as well (upon the recommendations here). I knew they offered built diffs but didn't know why. I now know! BRP's rear diff builds are a joke.

On a side note, I'm going to run bellows for the diffs and also wrap the other vent tubes in heat wrap (from summit racing). I also have a maverick belt to install.

I will have my mud n wheels diff next week Friday. Going to disassemble the wheeler Friday night and hope my drive shaft is good... then reinstall it all Saturday. Unless I get the wild idea to work Friday night into early Saturday AM. We'll see.
 
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