Get some miles on it. Like 500 or so then see what it had for coolant in it.
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
Weep hole leaking after seal replacement
Dealer just replaced the water pump seal under warranty and the hose has about 4” of coolant in it again already. It’s been a week and roughly 50 miles. Do you think the entire water pump is shot? Fan runs often but no overheating.
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Think it just needs time to seat into place? Find the sweet spot more or less?Get some miles on it. Like 500 or so then see what it had for coolant in it.
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4" of fluid in the hose seems like a lot of coolant getting past the seal. I would drain the hose and see how long it takes to refill. I had the dealer change my 1st leaking water pump and the replacement leaked just as bad. I don't believe that the mechanic followed the proper procedure when installing the new seal. I bought the proper tools and changed that water pump seal myself and never had it leak again.
To your question "do you think the entire waterpump is shot". No, your water pump has the housing and the impellor and then the ceramic seal, not too much to go wrong with the housing and impellor.
To your question "do you think the entire waterpump is shot". No, your water pump has the housing and the impellor and then the ceramic seal, not too much to go wrong with the housing and impellor.
Excellent advice.4" of fluid in the hose seems like a lot of coolant getting past the seal. I would drain the hose and see how long it takes to refill. I had the dealer change my 1st leaking water pump and the replacement leaked just as bad. I don't believe that the mechanic followed the proper procedure when installing the new seal. I bought the proper tools and changed that water pump seal myself and never had it leak again.
To your question "do you think the entire waterpump is shot". No, your water pump has the housing and the impellor and then the ceramic seal, not too much to go wrong with the housing and impellor.
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I did drain the hose and will put some miles on it this weekend. It's a bummer that you take the machine that only has a six month warranty to the dealer to get fixed and it is returned with the same issue. I will do it myself this next time if need be. thanks for the replies.4" of fluid in the hose seems like a lot of coolant getting past the seal. I would drain the hose and see how long it takes to refill. I had the dealer change my 1st leaking water pump and the replacement leaked just as bad. I don't believe that the mechanic followed the proper procedure when installing the new seal. I bought the proper tools and changed that water pump seal myself and never had it leak again.
To your question "do you think the entire waterpump is shot". No, your water pump has the housing and the impellor and then the ceramic seal, not too much to go wrong with the housing and impellor.
"Some" coolant in those weep hole hoses is "normal"
You do need a larger sample size to say whether something's amiss or fine, imo
You do need a larger sample size to say whether something's amiss or fine, imo
Drained the hose and have a couple of short rides since, maybe 10-15 miles. After every trip there is a few inches of coolant in the hose. I am wondering if the tech didn't set the inner part of the bearing and it is unable to move like it should. Going to tear into it this week and see what I find. Waiting for the new seal to arrive in case I need to replace it, AGAIN.Excellent advice.
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Contact the dealer.
If they did work to it and they did not fix the problem they should be willing to take a close look again at no charge, it is called a "come back".
Mechanics do make mistakes like everyone else , they need to fix it. Now if they do go in there and find say a crack in one of the surfaces so it is NOT a failure of the mechanics skill changing the part but his / her ability to verify they solved the problem . You want that done under warranty and if you brought it in prior for the seal job and they missed a bigger issue they should be able to get that warrantied as you brought it in for the same problem while IN warranty.
If however you touch it, you own it and they are less likely to go to bat with canam if it is a bigger issue.
If they did work to it and they did not fix the problem they should be willing to take a close look again at no charge, it is called a "come back".
Mechanics do make mistakes like everyone else , they need to fix it. Now if they do go in there and find say a crack in one of the surfaces so it is NOT a failure of the mechanics skill changing the part but his / her ability to verify they solved the problem . You want that done under warranty and if you brought it in prior for the seal job and they missed a bigger issue they should be able to get that warrantied as you brought it in for the same problem while IN warranty.
If however you touch it, you own it and they are less likely to go to bat with canam if it is a bigger issue.
Like Ducvet said, if they did the work, they should fix it.Drained the hose and have a couple of short rides since, maybe 10-15 miles. After every trip there is a few inches of coolant in the hose. I am wondering if the tech didn't set the inner part of the bearing and it is unable to move like it should. Going to tear into it this week and see what I find. Waiting for the new seal to arrive in case I need to replace it, AGAIN.
But, I would question them as to the procedure they followed and if they have the proper tools. Here's a link to an earlier posting of this issue. If their not using the right tools and following the proper procedure you may continue to end up with the same problem. (36) Waterpump weep line - What does this mean? | Can-Am ATV Forum (can-amforum.com)
The biggest problem with installing the ceramic seal is that a lot of people think that lightly tapping it in with a hammer is OK, and for some it may work out OK. It is definately the fastest way to install it, but it is a ceramic seal and what could possibly go wrong by tapping on a ceramic seal with a hammer???, plus another part of the issue is that there is a plastic gear on the other end of that shaft, and you can damage that gear if you fail to follow the proper procedure and that would require quite a lot of additional work to fix.
If you decide to do the work yourself, invest in the proper tools and follow the procedures outlined in your service manual.
I completely understand, however I do not have much faith in the quality of work that is being done at this dealership. Not to mention it is going on 48 hours of reaching out and I still have not heard back from anyone. I only have 2 months left on the warranty and if I do the work myself at least I know it was done right and with care. I am going to open it up and make sure it is seated and the middle of that seal is functioning as it should be. I have heard of people having to set the middle a little further than what it was originally and all of the leaking stopped.Like Ducvet said, if they did the work, they should fix it.
But, I would question them as to the procedure they followed and if they have the proper tools. Here's a link to an earlier posting of this issue. If their not using the right tools and following the proper procedure you may continue to end up with the same problem. (36) Waterpump weep line - What does this mean? | Can-Am ATV Forum (can-amforum.com)
The biggest problem with installing the ceramic seal is that a lot of people think that lightly tapping it in with a hammer is OK, and for some it may work out OK. It is definately the fastest way to install it, but it is a ceramic seal and what could possibly go wrong by tapping on a ceramic seal with a hammer???, plus another part of the issue is that there is a plastic gear on the other end of that shaft, and you can damage that gear if you fail to follow the proper procedure and that would require quite a lot of additional work to fix.
If you decide to do the work yourself, invest in the proper tools and follow the procedures outlined in your service manual.
I appreciate all the feedback.
Not sure what you're referring to "set the middle". The only thing I can think that you could check is to see if the seal is fully inserted.I have heard of people having to set the middle a little further than what it was originally and all of the leaking stopped.
I appreciate all the feedback.
I was referring to the middle section of the mechanical seal. The part that moves with spring tension. I have read that it hangs up on the shaft and doesn't allow it to move like it should if it isn't seated. Could be BS but I thought it was worth looking into.Not sure what you're referring to "set the middle". The only thing I can think that you could check is to see if the seal is fully inserted.
You usually find either a seal is not made or damaged or one of the sealing surfaces are worn or damaged. Wear should not be possible on such a new machine so that means you may have a damaged component. Inspect everything carefully when you get it apart if you choose to do it yourself, seals sit where there supposed to imho you only change the location when a component is unavailable and you must change the sealing surfaces location due to wear.
Option 2 is they did not install the seal correctly on the repair and you replace the damaged parts and will be done if you do better.
Option 2 is they did not install the seal correctly on the repair and you replace the damaged parts and will be done if you do better.
At this point I am going to tackle it myself. I do not have much faith in the quality of work that is being done in the service department at this dealership. At least this way I will know the condition of the housing and shaft while I am in there.You usually find either a seal is not made or damaged or one of the sealing surfaces are worn or damaged. Wear should not be possible on such a new machine so that means you may have a damaged component. Inspect everything carefully when you get it apart if you choose to do it yourself, seals sit where there supposed to imho you only change the location when a component is unavailable and you must change the sealing surfaces location due to wear.
Option 2 is they did not install the seal correctly on the repair and you replace the damaged parts and will be done if you do better.
Here's information on the tools that you will need to properly install the new seal:
Rotary Seal Pusher Plate (p/n: 529-036-130) ($29.99 from Partzilla)
Seal Pusher (P/N: 529-035-766) ($23.99 from Partzilla)
4x M6 x 85 screws (P/N: 420-440-347) (I got mine at local hardware store)
And you will need 4 x tubes 70mm (3.75in). (I fab'd these out of a lamp pendate stem)
![]()
And here's a 3 part series of videos that show how to change one of the seals using the proper tools and procedures.
Can am defender water pump seal part 1 - YouTube
Can am water pump seal part 2 - YouTube
Can am water pump seal part 3 - YouTube
Good luck to you.
Rotary Seal Pusher Plate (p/n: 529-036-130) ($29.99 from Partzilla)
Seal Pusher (P/N: 529-035-766) ($23.99 from Partzilla)
4x M6 x 85 screws (P/N: 420-440-347) (I got mine at local hardware store)
And you will need 4 x tubes 70mm (3.75in). (I fab'd these out of a lamp pendate stem)
And here's a 3 part series of videos that show how to change one of the seals using the proper tools and procedures.
Can am defender water pump seal part 1 - YouTube
Can am water pump seal part 2 - YouTube
Can am water pump seal part 3 - YouTube
Good luck to you.
Thank you, much appreciated.Here's information on the tools that you will need to properly install the new seal:
Rotary Seal Pusher Plate (p/n: 529-036-130) ($29.99 from Partzilla)
Seal Pusher (P/N: 529-035-766) ($23.99 from Partzilla)
4x M6 x 85 screws (P/N: 420-440-347) (I got mine at local hardware store)
And you will need 4 x tubes 70mm (3.75in). (I fab'd these out of a lamp pendate stem)
View attachment 111864
And here's a 3 part series of videos that show how to change one of the seals using the proper tools and procedures.
Can am defender water pump seal part 1 - YouTube
Can am water pump seal part 2 - YouTube
Can am water pump seal part 3 - YouTube
Good luck to you.
Quick question. is the tube diameter 70mm, and the length 3.75"? does this have to be exact diameter or as long as it fits the bolts and plate would be ok? I just ordered the parts but until I have them in hand I am not sure exactly how this all goes together. I have some spare scrap laying around and don't want to order anything else if not necessary.Here's information on the tools that you will need to properly install the new seal:
Rotary Seal Pusher Plate (p/n: 529-036-130) ($29.99 from Partzilla)
Seal Pusher (P/N: 529-035-766) ($23.99 from Partzilla)
4x M6 x 85 screws (P/N: 420-440-347) (I got mine at local hardware store)
And you will need 4 x tubes 70mm (3.75in). (I fab'd these out of a lamp pendate stem)
View attachment 111864
And here's a 3 part series of videos that show how to change one of the seals using the proper tools and procedures.
Can am defender water pump seal part 1 - YouTube
Can am water pump seal part 2 - YouTube
Can am water pump seal part 3 - YouTube
Good luck to you.
thanks for all your help
I believe I just answered my own question. I could be wrong but I believe 70mm = 2.75". I am assuming that is what you meant to put in the description in instead of 3.75". Am I correct or am I heading down the wrong path? Sorry, I originally read that as diameter / length but I believe you converting MM to inches.Quick question. is the tube diameter 70mm, and the length 3.75"? does this have to be exact diameter or as long as it fits the bolts and plate would be ok? I just ordered the parts but until I have them in hand I am not sure exactly how this all goes together. I have some spare scrap laying around and don't want to order anything else if not necessary.
thanks for all your help
AGAIN, THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP
No, your correct it does not have to be the exact diameter as long as it fits.Quick question. is the tube diameter 70mm, and the length 3.75"? does this have to be exact diameter or as long as it fits the bolts and plate would be ok? I just ordered the parts but until I have them in hand I am not sure exactly how this all goes together. I have some spare scrap laying around and don't want to order anything else if not necessary.
thanks for all your help
Also, I was just looking at some other videos on removing the ceramic seal and I ran across this one. I can tell you for sure that you will be cursing the seal when you are in the process of removing it. This guy has come up with a procedure that I have never seen before, but it looks like it really works and makes it much easier. If I every have to change another seal, I will probably give this a try. Can am water pump seal tips ( will work on other bikes too ) - YouTube
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