I have seen this too and thought I would be giving it a try. Thanks!
I have seen this too and thought I would be giving it a try. Thanks!No, your correct it does not have to be the exact diameter as long as it fits.
Also, I was just looking at some other videos on removing the ceramic seal and I ran across this one. I can tell you for sure that you will be cursing the seal when you are in the process of removing it. This guy has come up with a procedure that I have never seen before, but it looks like it really works and makes it much easier. If I every have to change another seal, I will probably give this a try. Can am water pump seal tips ( will work on other bikes too ) - YouTube
After you do it post back your thoughts on it.I have seen this too and thought I would be giving it a try. Thanks!
Perfect, thank you. I will let you know when I get the press and get it done. Hopefully it takes care of the issue for me.Eidch13R; the video #3 didn't explain the procedure for using the press. When you get it set up you turn the bolt about 1 & 1/2 turn and then you have to remove the press and pull the shaft out (it will only move a tiny bit) then reinstall the press and "rinse and repeat". It will take a few times to get the seal seated. The reason for this procedure is so you don't damage the gears on the other end of the shaft. It's a PITA but better safe than sorry.
The issue I am having is that the entire 3+ feet of breather hose for the weep hole will completely fill up with coolant if I don't drain it after every ride. I have the XMR and that hose for the weep hole runs to the top of the machine behind the gauge cluster. I understand a drop or two may be present in the tube but it should not push enough coolant to fill that hose after a few hours of riding. I inspected the seal and opted to take it back to the dealer to have them fix this correctly although I do not have much faith in the work they are doing.The two 2013 800 XTPs in my stable have always presented antifreeze is the weep tube. My understanding regarding the weeping is as follows:
There is an air cavity between the back side of the water pump shaft seal and the front side of the oil sump seal - both of these seals are for the water pump drive shaft. The air cavity's sole purpose is to keep coolant from entering the oil sump if the water pump shaft seal should fail. The empty cavity is vented to atmosphere via the small nipple and 3" section of hose that's run down under the frame. SHOULD any coolant leak into this space, the coolant drains out of the weep hole's drain tube. IF this drain tube were to collect water in it and freeze, THEN it's possible for enough coolant to fill the cavity and to pressurize into the oil sump. But it's not likely as the block warms up with usage, and the water in this cavity will warm, and thus, melt any ice in the tube. Being clogged with mud would be a more probable culprit
It's also possible, but not probable for oil to enter the coolant system the same way, but you have to have a failed oil seal around the water pump shaft, a clogged weep hole, full weep hole cavity, AND a pressurized sump - which it isn't.
Brings to mind the question as to the quantity of coolant you are adding or have added to replenish the system requirements?The issue I am having is that the entire 3+ feet of breather hose for the weep hole will completely fill up with coolant if I don't drain it after every ride. I have the XMR and that hose for the weep hole runs to the top of the machine behind the gauge cluster. I understand a drop or two may be present in the tube but it should not push enough coolant to fill that hose after a few hours of riding. I inspected the seal and opted to take it back to the dealer to have them fix this correctly although I do not have much faith in the work they are doing.