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Which brand name of grease do you all recommend? Xps, redline, Lucas, etc???...it's time to lub my xmr and want to know what the best is....
 

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Just greased mine this morning, anything synthetic. I use royal purple
 
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I only use greases with aluminum complex base. Its performance is superior to a lithium base in protecting bushings/bearings from water contamination. Specifically, I use Schaeffers 274 Moly EP synthetic #2 in everything from bushings to bearings. IIRC I pay about $7 a tube through my dealer and have it shipped to my home.
 

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I use the XPS stuff. I think here in Canada at my dealer is $15 a tube.
 
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i use amsoil marine grease for everything from my quad, truck and trailer all the way down to my rc car and it's been flawless.
 
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Waterproof Green Grease

 
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Good stuff ^

I was using Mobil 1 but am switching , the M/1 is great grease but the problem is is seems to separate & the liquid oozes out of the gun & leaves a waxy substance afterwards .
It smells horrible too .
 

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Good stuff ^

I was using Mobil 1 but am switching , the M/1 is great grease but the problem is is seems to separate & the liquid oozes out of the gun & leaves a waxy substance afterwards .
It smells horrible too .
For as reputable a company as Mobile 1, there truly is no substitute for an aluminum complex grease in these applications. AFAIK Mobile uses lithium complex in all of their common over the counter formulas which is good for certain applications but is not as good as an aluminum complex when it comes to wash out and contamination, which is particularly important for bushings and bearings that are repeatedly submerged in water and mud.
 

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I have read here and elsewhere, to stay away from molybdenum type grease in bearings, it will separate dry out and stop ubricating.
It can be useful as an additive in crankcases and transmissions where it is continually "stirred up".
Definitely use a product that stands up to water wash-out, and grease often.
I used to alternate Green Grease and a white lithium grease or the blue colored stuff from Amsoil, so while pumping it in and the new color came out, I knew that I got a fresh supply of new grease in. Also used to grease them every 150 to 200 miles, Cheap insurance!



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I've been using belray waterproof grease lately in all my machines.
 

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I have read here and elsewhere, to stay away from molybdenum type grease in bearings, it will separate dry out and stop ubricating.
It can be useful as an additive in crankcases and transmissions where it is continually "stirred up".
Definitely use a product that stands up to water wash-out, and grease often.
I used to alternate Green Grease and a white lithium grease or the blue colored stuff from Amsoil, so while pumping it in and the new color came out, I knew that I got a fresh supply of new grease in. Also used to grease them every 150 to 200 miles, Cheap insurance!
Molybdenum disulfide is used as a boundary lubricant in most types of greases, including Amsoil. Amsoil actually uses lots of moly and for good reason. It is a low cost, low friction additive that is resistant to heat and acidic conditions. Graphite is another boundary lubricant that is very effective but is not as cheap as moly, and not as widely used.
 

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Also, alternating between grease types can be detrimental. You'll be fine if using the same type, I.E. using different brands of lithium complex (which is most off the shelf greases). Calcium, barium, and clay complex bases may not be compatible with other types depending on the manufacture. Aluminum complex is the most resistant to water wash off and contamination, and depending on who makes it some are cross compatible and some arent. (Schaeffers is.) Read the manufacturers recommendations before using different brands as some require you to completely clean the old grease out before switching types. This likely isnt a issue for most off the shelf greases but it can be for some of the special purpose types.
 

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How about switching from a conventional grease to a synthetic grease, do you need to clean out the old stuff?
 

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It depends on the situation, but generally speaking no. Now if I were repacking a set of wheel bearings, I would try to get as much of the old out as possible regardless of what it was. But for general greasing of bushings and such like we do on our machines, no worries. You can have a conventional and a synthetic and both still be a lithium complex, or aluminum complex, etc. etc.
 
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