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800R fuel pump replacement

148K views 82 replies 48 participants last post by  800_XXC  
#1 ·
a big thank you to burner who posted the autozone part numbers a while back. it turned a $250 OEM replacement job into a $135 job. the part number for the fuel pump is E8213. i did the work on my buddy's bike that when i got it was running at 12 psi. once it was cleaned out and a new pump installed, its running right at 50 psi. if you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, i highly suggest investing in one. mine has given me the peace of mind when i thought something was wrong and helped me diagnose a few bikes now. well worth it and they are pretty cheap.

first off, if you need help getting the pump out of the tank, i highly advise that you let someone else fix your bike from now on. if getting the pump out is an easy task, this shouldn't take long at all. i'm not going into the steps to get the pump out as that is very straightforward. the whole process is, but pictures do help some people.

here's what you've got when you remove the pump assembly:

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make sure to clean it off real well. i got lucky in that someone else had already flushed the tank and cleaned everything off.

here's the pump from autozone:

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all you need from the box is the pump itself and the metal retainer for the filter:

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start by carefully removing the bottom cap. there are three points where it is held on. just use a flat blade screwdriver to get it off:

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note the junk just in the bottom cap. once i saw that, i knew there had to be more in the pump. thankfully i was warned that there was junk in the tank and when i talked to the guy who cleaned it out, he said the filter was darn near solid with crud when he pulled it out and the tank was filthy.

snip this zip tie to give more slack in the wires going to the pump:

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remove the gray plug from the top of the assembly by prying the metal locking tab out of the way:

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remove the plastic body that is around the fuel pump from the black piece. like the bottom cap, there are three retaining points:

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push down and slide the metal piece towards the top of the assembly to remove:

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here's the stock pump vs. the aftermarket pump:

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pop the connector off the stock pump:

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slide the plastic plug and hard washer off the stock pump:

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pry the filter off the bottom of the stock pump. use a flat blade screwdriver and work your way around it so you don't damage the plastic. i pried from between the pump and the plastic, not the plastic and the retainer:

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pry the filter off around the inlet hole:

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the pumps are a little different, but not enough to make a difference:

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slide the filter on the new pump and use the retainer that came with the new pump. the stock one might work, but its on a plastic post vs. the metal post of the aftermarket one, so i decided to use the one that came with the new pump:

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the plastic plug and washer won't stay on the new pump since it doesn't have barbs on it, but it has to be installed for it to work:

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plug in the new pump and slide it into the plastic housing:

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make sure that the outlet of the new pump lines up with the regulator:

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slide it all together and make sure the black wire goes through the tab on the white housing and make sure the parts lock together:

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pull the metal piece back into place:

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pop the endcap on and the replacement is finished:

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now here is why you should check the regulator on a regular basis:

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that came out when i removed the fuel pump. the darker particles are probably from this area of the country.

then i blew back through the regulator and this came out:

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the lighter particles are probably from the last time my buddy was in texas.

i soaked it in parts cleaner for a while and blew some compressed air through the regulator and kept doing it until what came out wasn't looking like mud:

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when i used compressed air to go in the normal direction, no particles came out. but in the reversed direction was when i got all the junk out of it. that leads me to believe that it has some sort of built in filter on it, so inline filters aren't as necessary as i first thought.

to get the regulator out, just pop off the metal band that connects the two black pieces:

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all this mess was caused by the gasket in the gas cap not being seated or something like that. so make sure your gas caps are in good working order. but in the event you're not getting enough fuel pressure, i would suggest first cleaning the regulator. if that doesn't work, replace the pump.
 
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#3 ·
U are the man!
 
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#4 ·
thanks guys. its an easy process, but some might be scared to try it themselves without seeing it done. it didn't take long to change out or do the write up. hopefully it helps save some guys some time and money.
 
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#5 ·
may be a stupid question, but will this fix the fuel guage problem? (sending unit)
 
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#9 ·
no, it will not. look at the blue piece in the pictures, that is the plastic part that the arm for the float connects to and goes up and down across the metal strip to give a signal of the fuel level.
 
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#6 · (Edited)
Good to hear you nailed it on the first time Wake!!!
and big :th_smiliethumbsup: for that excellent review..
however...
my theory about the pump..see if someone with more knowledge can lighten this up..

As we all know the fuel inyection sistem runs at 50psi, right. but the pressure regulator takes care of that...the pump can put out 60, 70, 80 or 90 psi (since mots car pumps run at that pressure) and the regulator reduces the pressure to the normal specs (50)..
I dont know if the OEM Bosh pump that comes in our ATV is 60, 70 or 90...for that matter...mabe it could be that the pump is running 75 and not pumping too much to make the regulator work overtime...

so if you replace it with a aftermarket pump that runs up to 90psi and the regulator is forced to reduce it to a manageable 50psi... wont we run the risk of damaging the regulator by putting in excess pressure and having another pump issue all by itself.


Vooodo... please include this post in the HOW-TO section....
 
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#8 ·
my take on it is that there is no way BRP would spend the money to have a special fuel pump made for these bikes. a lot of other parts are from the automotive industry, so the pump would be no different. i'm sure airtex just copied the bosch pump to make a cheaper version available at auto parts stores. i do find it odd that i can't cross reference the bosch part number either, though. they probably have one little change to a standard bosch pump to give it a distinct part number for BRP's use. but the internals of the pump are surely the same. also, the previous years allowed for the pressure to be jacked up pretty high by putting a pressure regulators on the return line. the 800R's don't use the same system and have their regulator right after the pump. but there wouldn't be any reason for them to go to a lower pressure pump. the regulator is a mechanical device that shouldn't be affected by increased pressure before it, either. i dunno for sure, but there are quite a few people out there who have used that same pump now with great success :thumbsmilie:
 
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#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Excellent job got wake? :th_smiliethumbsup:

This is one of those "how-to's", that I print out and stick in the back of my manual. :smilietwocents: (it's getting a bit bulky)
 
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#11 ·
well i just pulled the tank on my buddy's renegade and the pre '09 fuel pumps are the same. they are just a lot more of a PITA to get out since you have to pull the whole tank.

i really think the reason why i've heard of more '09 fuel pumps failing is because of the larger in tank filter. the previous years have a filter that is half the size, so you'd notice the effects of a clogged filter much faster. when that happens, we all know to drop the tank and clean it. since the '09's have a larger filter, my theory is once junk gets past the pump and clogs up the regulator, the fuel pump gets overloaded and that is what actually burns it up. that also goes well with my theory that the '09 style doesn't have an inline filter because the regulator catches what the in tank filter misses. the '09 style goes from the pump, to the regulator, to the single fuel line to the injectors. the previous style went from the pump, to an inline filter, to a Y, to the injectors on one side and to the fuel return line on the other, which went to the fuel pressure regulator. the two line system works better for putting an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator in to jack up the fuel pressure. in the '09 style, you'd have to remove the intank pressure regulator and put one outside the tank. its not hard to do, but not as easy as previous years. these are just my theories, and i have been dinking for four hours (yes, i started at 10:15 AM), so take it for what its worth, lmao.
 
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#17 ·
well i just pulled the tank on my buddy's renegade and the pre '09 fuel pumps are the same. they are just a lot more of a PITA to get out since you have to pull the whole tank.

i really think the reason why i've heard of more '09 fuel pumps failing is because of the larger in tank filter. the previous years have a filter that is half the size, so you'd notice the effects of a clogged filter much faster. when that happens, we all know to drop the tank and clean it. since the '09's have a larger filter, my theory is once junk gets past the pump and clogs up the regulator, the fuel pump gets overloaded and that is what actually burns it up. that also goes well with my theory that the '09 style doesn't have an inline filter because the regulator catches what the in tank filter misses. the '09 style goes from the pump, to the regulator, to the single fuel line to the injectors. the previous style went from the pump, to an inline filter, to a Y, to the injectors on one side and to the fuel return line on the other, which went to the fuel pressure regulator. the two line system works better for putting an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator in to jack up the fuel pressure. in the '09 style, you'd have to remove the intank pressure regulator and put one outside the tank. its not hard to do, but not as easy as previous years. these are just my theories, and i have been dinking for four hours (yes, i started at 10:15 AM), so take it for what its worth, lmao.
What style or brand of after market regulators works on the older style systems. What do you do with the old regulator? Do you leave it attached and run the original and a after market together? I want to jack up the pressure before going to bigger injectors first.
 
#13 ·
you can take out the fuel filter and put it where it goes, or tap in somewhere else. where it goes to the Y piece, you can remove one side, hook up the pressure gauge there, and use another piece of hose on the other side to the Y.
 
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#14 ·
here's a funny question for you wake, im working on an 08 fuel pump (bottom style). How in the heck do you get the fuel line off the barb end of the pump? That short black line looks to be shrink fit or something, I can't pull it off without thinking im going to tear the line. May end up cutting it off and replacing with a regular piece of fuel hose...
 
#15 ·
i don't know. i didn't try taking that off when i cleaned out the tank on my '07. i just left them attached. knowing how i do things, i'd probably get frustrated with it, cut it down the side, then put another piece on it.
 
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#16 ·
yea I was thinking the same. I come back out the shop to make sure the airtex fuel pump was the same as the 09 and thought about it, never went back out there, lol!

I dont think my pump is the problem, just the pre-filter was clogged bad. I just want to pull the pump so i can remove and clean the regulator as well. The funny part was it would still read 46-48 psi on a gauge just didnt have enough volume to run right under a load..
 
#18 ·
Thank you for this post. I just brought my canam to the shop to get the fuel pump replaced ( after 1/2 tank it would run right) and they said they could not because it did not send a code to the computer. SO I will pick it up today and tell them I WILL DO IT MYSELF! This post was perfect timing for me. I should have just done it all myself anyway.
 
#20 ·
i'm pretty sure at the dealer they can only get the entire assembly anyways, which is quite a bit more than just the pump.
 
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#26 · (Edited)
i thought i would add this to Gotwakes thread since the pumps are the same, just the procedure is a lil bit different...



ok i just changed out my fuel pump in my 06 800, its a bit different than than the newer models. this unit mounts in the from the bottom of the tank..
here is a quick little tutorial for the step to replace the pump instead of buying a whole unit..
 

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#28 ·
Good info.
 
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#29 · (Edited)
more tips, found this cross reference on ebay

Manufacturer Cross References
Airtex E2111 E2471 E8213 E8229 E8271 E8404 E8532
AC Delco EP318 EP370 EP372 EP394 EP472 EP474


Bosch 69697 69496 69248 69691 69487 69722 69752



this way you can check out other sources, went to Napa here in canada, they wanter over $400, checked ebay- $30 at my door !!! or i can get AC Delco for $70. far Cry from the Can-Am price or Napa
Kudos to the finder of this information and sharing!!!
 
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#30 ·
Thanks for the help!! Had my second pump go out in about 4 rides because I didn't clean the tank. If you get it at a parts store and buy a new bottom filter. You can get a 1yr warranty. This could come in handy! This pump goes to many cars. Just don't tell them the warranty if for a wheeler. Thats what the parts guy told me. Thanks again for saving me another $100+ :)
 
#31 ·
...[A]ll this mess was caused by the gasket in the gas cap not being seated or something like that. so make sure your gas caps are in good working order. but in the event you're not getting enough fuel pressure, i would suggest first cleaning the regulator. if that doesn't work, replace the pump.
Excellent writeup, big thanks!


Also make sure when you reinstall the pump that you get it's gasket in correctly and that the flange is sitting level. I was curious if I got it right so I laid the bike over on its right side to test.


My syptoms:
My quad has developed a hesitation off idle (idle to WOT, slight lag) as well as running a bit rougher. I pulled the pump to check the tank for debris (minimal) and to blow out the regulator. The regulator was clean, going to town now to get a fuel pressure gauge to check system pressure.

As an aside, the pump does press against the bottom of the tank, spring loaded, right? I couldn't figure any other way for the sender's flange to sit correctly on the tank's opening.
 
#32 ·
If you can't find a fuel pressure gauge, an oil pressure gauge will work just fine. I got a $12 gauge from O Reilly's, a piece of 5/16" fuel line, and a hose clamp to clamp the hose on the gauge's threads, slipped that on the sending unit's barb/pipe.

I had 25-26psi.

O Reilly's carries Airtex (AIX line code) and the Inventory Value on the AIX E8213 is ~$108. My store regularly keeps one E8213 on the shelf, btw. My discount put around $132 out the door, and regular price is around $135+tax I believe.

Fixing to install the new pump.
 
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