Can you apply 12 volts directly to the fan and check rotation?

 

Just ran cable from battery to fan terminals and no go on spin

 

Just food for thought...
My 2005 Outlander cooling fan failed to engage even though the over temp light was on.
I jumped the terminals at the radiator mounted sensor connector and the fan came on.
Removed the pins from the connector and found the pin sockets were spread out and not making contact with the pins of the radiator mounted coolant (fan) sensor.
A quick reshaping of the terminals solved the no fan issue.

 

You can replace just the motor. $50. My findings from 2 weeks ago - Radiator Fan Options - Motor only

Replacement get the130w version.

12 Volt Electric Fan Motors 90-180 Watt 2-4 Bolt Hole Mounting

Bolt-on replacement 12 volt electric radiator fan motor. Includes male and female adapter plugs and pigtail wire. Sealed for dust and water resistance to increase longevity. 2 or 3 or 4 bolt patterns fit common brand electric fans. For automotive uses and general engineering projects. 90 Watt...

www.americanvolt.com

 

Alright I removed the radiator and fan. Tested the fan again for shits and giggles and it works, a little scuff sound but I think it's just dirt because I can't see it touching anywhere. I'll clean it up before putting back in.

When it was connected it didn't turn on with the heat sensor pulled. It overheats pretty quick on trail and sitting on in the garage in about 15 mins.

I'm going to pull the boyesen impeller cover and check on that tomorrow. Will flush the radiator again before putting it in. Fins are pretty good overall. No dirt. Would air gaps cause any of this?

Terminals look great.

Any ideas on the fan not turning on?

 

Your bearings are shot more than likely on that fan and it may seize up if it sits for long and then when it needs to turn on it can’t.. I didn’t know mine where shot until I pulled it apart and installed a new fan motor did not know the fan sounded this quiet..

 

I replaced the fan motor. Tested the terminals and they work fine. Fan turns on with direct power. When I let it run the fan still does not turn on when it gets hot enough too. I pulled the sensor to force it to go into limp mode, which should turn the fan on, it does not. I swapped the relays around to see if any of those were bad, they were not. Tested power at the relays and there is power. Flushed radiator, replaced coolant. I'm stumped. What else can I test?

 

Does the limp home activate when you unplug the sensor? If it does , I'd check for a broken wire .

 

It does go into limp mode when the sensor is pulled. Any lead on what wires?

 

Checked for power at the relay when I pulled the sensor, machine goes into limp mode as it should, relay has power on both sides, fan plug does not have power to it. What do you think?

 

Are you saying the line side and the load side both have power?

If there is power at the source and no power at the fan, there is only wire in-between. Right?

 

I think so. I'm searching for a scuff or something but it all looks fine.

 

Okay so the plot thickens. I left the ATV running for a little while and the fan did actually come on eventually. My concern is that the fan didn't come on when I pulled the heat sensor plug. But hey, the fan came on!! I think I'll just wire a switch in and call it a day. Use it when I think its necessary. I wonder if there is something I can wire in to show me the current temp?

 

When you say temperature sensor, are you referring to the one in the head or the radiator?

 

Correct, head mounted sensor. Know why it wouldn't kick the fan on when removed?

 

Did you pull the connections with the engine off or running? I read another post where the leads were removed on a key on engine off and the fan kicked on.

Here's the fan on temperature ranges according to the manual...

 

I pulled off the sensor when it was running. I also started it with it pulled off and no fan. I'll try it with engine off. Thanks

 

Trying not to derail OP thread, but using the word "sensor" for either of the carb'd bikes "switches", is a bit of a stretch. To the best of my knowledge, they are simply on/off switches, heat-operated. They don't have a measuring range like a typical sensor does (the EFI machines), but more of an on/off operation, dependent on temperature.

 

I'm going to replace my temp sensor as well. Why not.

 

Anyone know the size of the nut that holds the fan blades to the fan motor? I'm looking too but thought I'd ask here if anyone had a quick way of finding.