i've never bled the brakes on mine when changing the pads.

 

^^^^

 

Don't disconnect brake line, it's no different than on cars. If it's been a while since last pad change, you may need a C-clamp to push the piston in far enough for new pads to slip back over rotor.

 

agreed leave an old pad on the caliper side and use a C-clamp to push the piston back in .... if you have added fluid to your brakes lately take the cap off while yer doing it and watch for overflow

 

Yup that is how I did it too.

 

If you do end up with spongy brakes and need to bleed the system, Speedbleeders are worth it IMO.

I have had to bleed my brakes a couple times, these little "gems" make it a breeze. :th_smiliethumbsup:

 

Hey Thanks Guys. I was able to change the front pads without removing the brake line after all, and still have the back ones to do but ran out of time. Luckily I got to them when I did, as they were down to the metal plate....literally. Rotors don't appear to be scored, and still feel smooth. The front calipers were a bitch to take off, as they are bolted down with two tapered torx screw. In fact, my torx wrench actually bent its edges a bit trying to get the screws off...that's after having doused them with Move-It even. I put anti-seize on them when I installed them again. The back caliper appears to be bolted down with hex head bolts so it should be easier to remove. Cleaned the pistons with brake fluid first, as indicated in the manual, and pushed them back in with the C clamp no problem. I didn't think of the fluid level in the reservoir, but will keep an eye on it when I do the rear brake. I did top it off a few months back as it was at mid-level, so I may have to suction some of it out first.

 

Hey Thanks Guys.... The front calipers were a bitch to take off, as they are bolted down with two tapered torx screw. In fact, my torx wrench actually bent its edges a bit trying to get the screws off...that's after having doused them with Move-It even.

Impact driver. :th_smiliethumbsup:

 

I've got 2 impact drivers, but none have torx bits. Only the standard screwdriver bits. I'll have to look for some torx ones.

 

The threadlocker they use is pretty good stuff, a little too good for the softness of the bolts.
I switched out my bolts to some regular allen flat-heads, grade 8 and use the blue locktite.:smilietwocents:

 

Pushing the brake fluid back into the lines and system with a C-clamp is, in theory, a bad idea. (that's how I do it too, cause like the appaerent majority here, I do stuff the lazy way) :thumbsmilie: . Any bits of rust, small amount of water, or particulates of dirt that have leaked past the caliper seal get forced by the C-clamp back up the brake line and into the master cylinder. This can cause other failures and damage.

Your supposed to disconnect the caliper, compress the piston, drain the fluid, refill with fresh, install the pads and bleed the brakes. But eh, to much extra work. :smilietwocents:

 

Pushing the brake fluid back into the lines and system with a C-clamp is, in theory, a bad idea. (that's how I do it too, cause like the appaerent majority here, I do stuff the lazy way) :thumbsmilie: . Any bits of rust, small amount of water, or particulates of dirt that have leaked past the caliper seal get forced by the C-clamp back up the brake line and into the master cylinder. This can cause other failures and damage.

Your supposed to disconnect the caliper, compress the piston, drain the fluid, refill with fresh, install the pads and bleed the brakes. But eh, to much extra work. :smilietwocents:

That's exactly what your supposed to do...I've done it both ways.. I prefer doing it the right way...:th_smiliethumbsup:I also think once its time for pads its time to inspect everything and change out the fluid..Might as well do it right from the start and it really doesn't take much more time or skill.