Savage, I have those parts waiting to go on my bike as well..lol. There is a you tube vid on it . Just google "front prop shaft removal 2014 canam outlander" . Will do mine this weekend. Looks simple, mabee two beers.. you will also need some otiker clamps, 2 of each size & a boot, like the one in the rear of the prop shaft, to stop the front-back play. I'll try to get some pics .

 

Thanks MuddinMike for the info:th_smiliethumbsup:

 

Any time.

 

I tried to do a search on if any one has changed out themselves the Front Diff seal on the input shaft. Mine is leaking and wondering if it is a hard fix. Can it be done with the diff still in the frame or does it have to come out? Just changing out the seal should be not to hard to do, but the Wear bushing on the shaft should be replaced too, so can it be switched out while still in Frame? Thoughts anyone,

PS it is on a 2012 Outlander 1000XT

Cheers,


Savage

To take out the front diff if I remember right it isn't hard at all. As for replacing the drive shaft boot as shown in the vid its easy

 

Wear ring and front diff seal. I too have not found any good info on replacing the wear ring, I have the new wear ring and seal just have not be ambitious enough to do it. The new wear ring does not seem to be a quality item , it is not completely round and it is not that smooth, just wondering if this is the reason these front seals wear out so fast and leak . My 650 has only been on a trail once, mostly used for plowing and grading our road, has very little hours and kms on it, but it leaks. If you go to the skf site they talk about the speedy sleave, how smooth it is and the material it is made from, I believe stainless steel. It has an almost polished surface compared to the brp part. I will probably get the speedy sleave and put it over the brp wear ring , as i'm tired of working on these toys.Think of how far you drive in your car and the seals do not leak, I have over 200,000 km and none of the seals leaked on my front wheel drive car or my pickup driven through harsh winters and summers. When you buy your wear ring take a look at it, then go to a bearing supply store and compare it to a speedy sleave, its night and day, just my 2 cents worth. Some else posted that they put the speedy sleave over the wear ring and it hasn't leaked since. I hope someone can find or post a video of how they remove or and the new wear ring.

 

Well I finally got to the prop shaft seal replacement today, this is how it went...

 

You have to take out the front motor mount bolt and right side bracket to lift and wiggle the motor over, just a bit to get the shaft out. After you take off the boot clamps the shaft will move tward the motor enough to get it out.

 

Next was the bolt in the front shaft sleeve, with the wear ring on it. With a bit of persuasion it finally came loose. Standard thread, just tight as hell. I had to wedge the hubs on both front wheels to break it loose.

 

Pic of the wear sleeve. Wore all to hell...
The sleeve was pressed on the diff extention that was held on by the bolt. I split mine with a cutoff wheel to make it easy to get off without messin up the sleeve. Then I didn't have a way to get the sleeve all the way on, so I had to mig weld it back together to use it to help press it on all the way.

 

Pic of the wear sleeve. Wore all to hell...
The sleeve was pressed on the diff extention that was held on by the bolt. I split mine with a cutoff wheel to make it easy to get off without messin up the sleeve. Then I didn't have a way to get the sleeve all the way on, so I had to mig weld it back together to use it to help press it on all the way.

I saw in a video where I guy just used a vise grip to squeeze it together and hold instead of tack welding. FYI

 

The sleeve presses on past the end of the diff extention, you need the old sleeve to help with the install to get it in the right location.

 

Gonna look into a different wear ring for next time, like Plowed mentioned.

 

Hey Muddin Mike Thanks for the info, if you have not put it back together can you take a micrometer reading of the input shaft were the wear ring goes, a friend of mine might have some speedy sleaves that might fit, the brp wear ringis cheap junk made to wear out quickly so we buy new ones, I guess everyone that has one of these machines should pay attention to what you are doing. My dealer said about three hundred bucks to replace the seal and ring, well at 98.00 cnd per hour it dose not take long to add up. Once I see how you guys are doing it I will try it but like someone else on these sites said put the speedy sleave over the old wear ring and forget about it.

 

Mine is back together already. I can get a mic in behind the sleeve tho. There is a little room before the shoulder, just have to score a mic from my buddy. The ring was difficult to press on the whole way so it must be the same diameter all the way down. I will try to get something for you tomorrow night or thurs morning.

 

When I do mine I will heat the ring up in boiling water and put the shaft in the freezer, someone else already mentioned that so trying not to claim their idea, but when I was working as a millwright we had a fridge that would cool down to -64 f specifically made for shrinking parts, and a small magnetic induction heaters to heat up bearings so they would have a tight fit and not be damaged by the heat before being put on the shaft.I believe about 300f and the bushing bearing would drop on the shaft no pressing required, but you only had seconds before it would shrink, and not fit.

 

Did anyone find and use this speedy sleeve for the wear ring ? If so where can a guy get one. Thanks

 

Well I was gonna try to get some good measurements on the wear ring but cant get a mic or caliper in there now that it is back together. I will disasemble again if I can order a speedy sleeve ro put on. Get some good numbers when you pull it apart.

 

NAPA has speedi sleeves.

 

If anyone is still monitoring this post, Can you tell me if the speedy sleeve goes over the wear ring or applied directly?

 

Goes over the existing wear sleeve.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

I had the front diff start leaking on my ATV (with 9,000 km) and I changed the original oil seal and wear ring yesterday. No more leaks now. The old wear ring was barely scored which means the leak was definitely caused by the oil seal alone but I changed both for the peace of mind and for future preventative maintenance.

Thanks for all the advice and tips given here. Pictures below.