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I’m getting a 10” Rigid from Santa,,,do most people go with the combo one,,,,or is the flood really only necessary? And,,is the 10” sufficient,,or should I go to the 20”? Most of what I’ve heard/read leads me to believe the 10” will be fine,,just wondering what folks on here think. Thanks for any & all input.
This?

https://www.rigidindustries.com/e-series-pro-e-series.html

Holy cow!!! Are those the real prices? I'm sure for that price it's a nice quality item, but for that much money, you could buy 10 of the cheap ones off Amazon.

I personally like the combo one. You get that nice intense beam 100 yards (or more) out in front of you, the the floods on the sides light up the sides of the road too. Good for seeing if a critter is going to jump out in front of you.

Yes the Rigid are expensive. BUT you get what you pay for. I've tried others and the Rigid are by far a better light. More intense and a way better beam pattern. I use the Rigid in specific applications and do use knock off brands for others.

shmoky
 
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I run a 30" curved led bar with combo patterns bolted to the push bar with grade 8 bolts. As bright as the combo is I would rather run a spot beam pattern on the bar due to the HID's in the headlights giving me plenty of up close light. When you are bombing down the trail at high speeds I would rather see farther up the trail rather than just up front of the machine. If you take it easy on the trail then a combo pattern would be fine.
 

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Had sirius pro series led bar on my xmr, amazing light and great price
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Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
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Yep,,Rigid isn’t cheap,,a lot of the the time ya get what ya pay for. So,,,Im going to go with the 10” combo beam. It’s funny,,sitting in your yard in the dead of night you’d think the stock lights are fine,,like it’s been said there fine for just putting down the trail,,that’s IT. I can’t believe how crappy they are most of the time when “I’m” riding @ night. Thanks for the input all.
 
Had sirius pro series led bar on my xmr, amazing light and great price
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Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
that stuff looks more like super soggy sawdust than mud lol
 
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I've used Rigid and black Oak Led. i try to buy products from USA or Canada, cheap China stuff just don't last long, the prices is right but i don't want an issue on a trip i have a lot invested in only to have my light bar crap out. the black oaks are half price to rigid and are just as bight, i now have 4. there america owned veteran operated and they have a life time guarantee. my first black oak was a six inch i got in 2013 its is still going strong and bright as the day i got it and no leaks and its been through hell.
 
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i try to buy products from USA or Canada
IDK. Try all you want, but I see "Made in Vietnam" all over a lot of the parts on my 2017 Can Am. Did the dealer sell me a knockoff? LOL
 
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i try to buy products from USA or Canada
IDK. Try all you want, but I see "Made in Vietnam" all over a lot of the parts on my 2017 Can Am. Did the dealer sell me a knockoff? LOL
Matts you got hosed take that junk back! Lol. I have no problem buying stuff from other places as long as its quality, I just try and limit buying junk from China.
 
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Where did you all mount your relays? These things are pretty damn tight to fit my hands in most places much less any accessories.
Mine is under the seat in conjunction with a 4 spot fuse block. I got the idea here:


 
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The rigid bars look cool but it's a lot of money.
 
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I installed mine on the linq rack - pain in the butt but clean and secure, especially if you have the front grill installed.

I'm relaying the following instructions from memory so if the size of the nuts/bolts isn't spot on, they're damn close. If you go this route; here's how I recommend going about it:

Step 0 angle your LED bar prior to installation and make damn sure the angle before performing the steps below. This can be achieved by resting the LED bar in it's brackets and set on the linq rack. Connect your wiring and switch and test against a wall. Make sure the beam is inline or centered with your low beam.

1-start removing both (black) T30-35 torx bolts from the upper front grill to the linq rack (you'll need an extension for your bit in most cases and accessing between the linq rack and body above the headlamps
2-loosen the 10mm (silver) nuts on the lower portion of the front grill mounting location (do not remove)
3-Remove the 2 silver 14mm bolts that secure the front of the linq rack up near the headlight assembly (They're at a 45degree angle)
4-Remove the 13mm grade 8 gold bolts securing the black bracket at the top of the fender that connect the linq rack
5-loosen the adjacent 5/8" (gold) plastic tap screws underneath each (black) fender next to the 13mm grade 8 bolts removed in step 4 - you'll be using a wrench to extract these and lifting the linq rack to gain clearance until the screws are fully extracted
6-Lift and flip over the link rack and install your LED bar - make damn sure you position it how you want it and lock-tite the allen screws and all hardware. If it moves or shifts you'll need to perform the above steps over again to make changes.

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Installation:
Start installing the torx bolts from step 1 and leave them loose (you'll need to use a small tool to center the hole before trying to start the bolts
Install and leave loose the screws in step 2
Install the screws from step 5 however leave them loose enough you can start the bolts in step 4 then work both of these screws/bolts on each side until nearly snug but leave loose
Snug up the bolts in step 3 but don't torque
Snug up the screws/bolts from the previous step and torque all rack bolts
Snug and lower grill nuts and upper torx bolts and then torque to complete

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I ran my LED wiring harness direct to the battery via relay to a switch on the front. I plan to add a small waterproof fuse panel off the battery instead as I install the HID's in the low & hi beam locations. Let me know if you have any questions.

 
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