so ever since you swamped the cvt its been giving you problems? sounds like maybe you have damaged the secondary? you mentioned some significant wear your clutches should be in like new condition especially considering its a new bike other wise you have big issues. your down to major engine problems or something seriously wrong with clutches . it raises a big flag for me when you say significant wear if that secondary not performing properly you can have the issue your having. by listening to your video to me sounds like someone shifting their bike to early. and bogging it down....your clutches are playing tug of war it maybe your secondary Since you changed the primary..

 

I did buy a new torque gear which had some wear and retaining ring. Going to buy a new helix as well but haven’t had time with the other issues to even begin digging into helix angles and the effects they have or if I should just remain stock helix. The secondary sheaves look perfectly fine, although I do need to measure bushing ID. Only swamped once 9 months prior to this starting. Cleaned it meticulously and no issues water or dust in it since.

edit: this also started before I changed the primary

 

operation:
This is from my conversation with a friend who was helping me set my clutches.
I run a 40/32 Helix One benefit of the dual helix is that it will shift out faster off the line giving acceleration. But then when in the meat of power at speed, allow higher rpm to be a peak power.


shift out rpm is set with the primary.
(along with engagement rpm)

shift curve is set with the seconday.
(along with power transfer efficiency and belt squeeze)

Adjusting clutch to 8000 is no big deal. PROVIDED the proper helix angle is being used.
If wrong helix is being used, it will force you to take too much weight out of primary.

Clutches tug of war each other. The tugging of the primary upshifts. The tugging of the secondary downshifts. The helix plays role in both backshifting, upshifting and downshiftiing.

Just follow:
Set primary for rpm wanted / needed.
Set secondary for proper belt pinch or not too much. If primary slips, secondary is tugging too hard. If secondary slips, its not tugging hard enough.

 

hopefully the pump is your problem

 

Does anyone make a marginally larger radiator by now that is more efficient? I searched and found old threads where it was discussed and some guys having custom ones made, but has anyone followed through and offer them? Also if not, what a preferred oem equivalent brands without going to cheap quality? Like everything searches for the 450 come up with nothing.

 

Update for anyone still invested. After new map/t, new spark plug, new fuel pump consistent at 51psi, cleaned injector, new fuel controller with problem also occurring back to stock with no fuel controller...problem still occurs and will not build rpms over mid 6s and top speed is 38-40 mph. Seems like the only thing left is buy a new injector or it being an ecm issue? The guy that I had lined up to troubleshoot it and do the cam won’t respond anymore, even though he’s very reputable, so I’m back to square one figuring this thing out on my own. Same symptoms as first post, none of this started as a result of swamping it. It just started out of nowhere.

 

..........

I'm out of what I'd consider "rational" ideas, at this point.

Is the rear brake caliper dragging?

And we did at some point, confirm it's a power generation issue, and not a power delivery issue, right? Will the bike rev clean in neutral/park? In other words, something weird in the clutches isn't preventing max rpm/speed

 

..........

I'm out of what I'd consider "rational" ideas, at this point.

Is the rear brake caliper dragging?

And we did at some point, confirm it's a power generation issue, and not a power delivery issue, right? Will the bike rev clean in neutral/park? In other words, something weird in the clutches isn't preventing max rpm/speed

The bike does rev clean in neutral it seems. Somewhere around page 3 I started to consider maybe it was the clutch and it was acting in a way I didnt expect which made me ignore it. Leading up to this issue, however, nothing on the clutch was changed or altered and hadnt been sunk. I put a new belt on it exact dimensions of the stock belt and it didnt make a difference. I then put the cvtech primary in and changed back to the stock helix and secondary spring and it didnt make a difference. In one of the videos you could hear it bog noticeably when the RPMs flatten out and it wont go any more. The new pump showed 51 psi under load and at idle revving up. The only thing I can think of is replace the injector and after that look at the ECM.

I am going to install the PCV and Autotune module in tonight so hopefully that will give me some insight once I can see AFR.

 

I would be too, but I cant come up with anything to save my life. Aside from taking it somewhere, which I cant find anyone that I trust or that can even look at it for more than a month and just refuse to let a dealer keep it for months playing a guessing game and getting one over on me. I really hope the AFR will give me a direction once I hook the PC stuff up.

 

There is no update on my issue, other than out of curiosity I put the new torque gear in the secondary which eliminated alot of play that developed after parts started noticeably wearing. I wonder if the stock secondary is playing catch up really bad with the cvtech and 30s and is just causing it to wear down parts that have friction against one another. I never had wear on the helix or torque ring like this until I installed the cvtech and 30s. The main problem at hand began prior to the clutch wear, however. Hopefully I have that issue resolved I just ordered a STM secondary, and unrelated also ordered the camshaft. Im hoping tonight Ill have time to install the PCV and check the AFR.

 

I actually do have something to mention. Last night I cranked it up and had a new issue arise. I changed the fuel pump sunday and it cranked right up no problems after the install. 51 psi and held there. When I cranked it up last night it studdered like it wasnt going to crank then idled pretty rough like it may cut off at any moment. It also puffed a small amount whiteish grey colored smoke while it was struggling to idle. I shut it down and took a look around waited about 5 seconds and then started it again and it fired up like normal with no hesitation. Still not getting any top speed or rpms out of it, but this is the first time it has ever done that.