they all run on the warm side. Better get in the right forum before you get in trouble

 

First off, welcome to the AWF. The exhaust has been running very hot on the 800's. Some people have decided to pay and them ceramic coated, which has reduced the heatconsiderably. Most when through performance coating, which OSOKILL set up a discount through the board on.

 

I mean when it's running hot the fans on all the time, even after about the first 5 minutes of riding, plus my red light has come on 4 or 5 times. My rad is clean.

 

Hairy, you better get that thing checked If the RAD is cleanlike you say, thats just not right. Ican feel the heat from the pipe ontightslow trails but have never seen the red light... The wife's Kawi runs hot only when the radiator is plugged. I have to take that thing out of the quad to clean it properly. I bought some royal purple Ice to try this summer for the KAW, it says you will run 15-20 degrees cooler. Good luck.

 

Mine is doing the same thing. My radiator was caked, I cleaned it out but it is over heating sometimes at idol, fan is allways on to. Also I am stuck in 4wd and my belts are slipping or something, not sure yet whats wrong im gonna pull it apart when I get a chance..Then got to take it to the shop

 

make sure you check the Radiator again. I just got back from a trip and the first day there my 800 was over heating. I cleaned the Radiator and the second day was better ,but it was still over heating after about 75 miles of riding. I found out that when i was cleaning the radiator i was hitting it with water from both the front and back.I must have not put enough time into cleaning it , because i compacted thedirt in the middle of the radiator and was unable to see that it was clogged up. After a very good cleaning I had no other problems and the outty ran great.

Make sure you don't bendyourradiator fins with high pressure water,you live and learn.

 

The ECM turns the fan on at 208f/98C engine temp, and switches it off at 203f/95C. The fan will also be activated if the intake air temp reaches 190f/88C, and swithes off below 185f/85C.

-at 239f/115c the check engine light comes ON, and the scrolling text message reads "check engine"and Engine Overheat.

-at 244f/118c, the engine will go into limp home mode, limiting the engine rpm to about 4000. The check engine lights flashes and the text "limp home mode" is added to the scrolling display.

if the last occurs you must letthe engine down. limp home mode is only to get you out of harms way. continue to drive the unit could cause Serious Enginedamage.

all outlander 500,650 800v-twins

 

You must work at a dealership and looked at the "What's News " today . Nice post Hymark, your name gives you up too. What kinda Summit DOO you have? NBM out.

 

Since we know we're all running hot, and I'm bored, and it's 90 degrees outside, and I wasted yesterday driving 6 hours trying to find a ATV "pull event" that nobody knew where it was and the date was posted wrong for the 2nd time on the WATV website....

Don't see any sense in a temp gauge or manual fan switch (had both on my previous Traxter Max just for "pulls") (never beaten by the way). If the thermostat and sensors and fan are running and the rad is clean, knowing the temp or turning on the fan manually won't do any more good.

You'll have to get your manifold and muffler ceramic coated as many of us have (no more heat on left leg, some heat on right leg).

You'll also have to add "Water Wetter" (there's a couple different brands) will lower the coolant temps by 15-20 degrees and should reduce the fan going on so much. To be able to add it you'll have to suck out an equal amount to what you want to add with your wife's turkey gravy baster.

Another cooling trick is to use Castrol 0-30 synthetic oil. It's made in Germany with a special blend (different from other Castrol synthetics) and your engine will run cooler. Just don't tell your dealer (most won't care).

After you've done all the above don't worry about it. Your seat shouldn't melt or you won't damage the engine from heat (if your CVT cover hasn't warped), they are intended to run hot. Horsepower makes heat. On my Subaru the turbo plumbing gets red hot when pushed hard.

What the heck. Think I'll go put on my SS shift knob, and charge up the Jeep battery and use it for towing instead of the Legacy. Stay cool... :tg:

 

what's some other names of the water wetter stuff ? I think i might try some

 

There's another product called "40 BELOW". Costs $23 plus shipping for 30 oz. It says use up to 2 cans in a small block Chevy. Says it cools "up to 40 degrees".

No mention of antifreeze properties in cold weather. Can be found and purchased with a Google search.

i sent for a can. Next timeI have service I'm having them install new spark plugs (terminal is different) and drain the radiator and add the full can of "40 Below" before antifreeze. :tg:

 

When the Polaris 800's came out there where many of them that were running hot down here in our area. High Lifter did some testing on them using HLP Heat Fighter kits and some of the temperature drops were astounding.:ban:

The water wetter mentioned above is probably similar to it.

I haven't used any of them yet but might do some research and testing on them in the near future and let everyone know the results.

BigDozer66

 

Any links for the HLP heatfighter stuff?

 

www.highlifter.com

 

hymark wrote:

The ECM turns the fan on at 208f/98C engine temp, and switches it off at 203f/95C. The fan will also be activated if the intake air temp reaches 190f/88C, and swithes off below 185f/85C.

-at 239f/115c the check engine light comes ON, and the scrolling text message reads "check engine"and Engine Overheat.

-at 244f/118c, the engine will go into limp home mode, limiting the engine rpm to about 4000. The check engine lights flashes and the text "limp home mode" is added to the scrolling display.

if the last occurs you must letthe engine down. limp home mode is only to get you out of harms way. continue to drive the unit could cause Serious Enginedamage.

all outlander 500,650 800v-twins

Thats some great info. I just got back from riding in the Black Hills for a week in temps of 90+ degrees. Two outty's and no problems but the fansran a lot. I think some of that radiator additive would have helped out a lot

 

Something the dirt bike riders are using is called engine ice,made by cyclelogic. In Canada it is available at Parts Canada. I know many riders really notice a difference. It claims to reduce operating temperature as much as 50 degrees F. You have to remove all the old coolant though.

 

Water Wetter is made by Redline and is available at most auto parts stores for about $8. Water additives will not run cooler than your thermostat. To state your engine will run cooler by 15, or 20, or 40 degress is just not true IF you are already running at your thermostat's rating.

As I understand it (someone weigh in with more knowledge please) these additives work by reducing the small air bubbles that form against the cylinders as the coolant gets close to its boiling point. Boil some water on the stove and you'll note a large number of small air bubbles forming on the inside of the pan as the water gets close to its boiling point. These bubbles create mini "hot spots" because no cooling occurs at their location. If there are enough of them, overall cooling may be compromised. By making the water "wetter" (a chemical change) these bubbles are reduced and better heat transfer occurs, reducing temperature "highs."

I tow a lot. With my old truck, a '92, the temp gauge would be constantly rising with every hill. After the addition of Water Wetter the gauge never moved off its normal spot as dictated by the thermostat. As a result I run it in everything.

The above said, these products are not a cure-all and will not make a problem go away, but they will help your cooling system work like it was designed.

 

JimJa pretty much summed it up.By having air bubbles in the cooling system it reduce's the coolants ability to carry away the heat to the radiator to be dissipated through convection.By eliminating the oxygen in the water (bubbles) the coolant becomes more efficient.The one thing you will notice is your fan will not run as much because as JimJa said,your staying in the lower range of the thermostat ie:normal operating temperature.The air bubbles create a dead airspace,so to say.

 

did u mix it with just water in the old truck, or antifreeze too ?

 

The highlifter product is called Super Cool. I ordered some from them and they were timely and professional. It states that it reduces temps up to 40 degrees.It is not an antifreeze.

Instructions on back of bottle

Drain radiator completly. Shake can well. Add 4 to 6 ounces of Atv & Motorcycle Super Cool. Finish filling radiator with mix of 80% distilled water and 20 % premium ethylene glycol antifreeze. Immediately go for a 30 minute ride or let engine idle to circulate product.

Patent pending

Made in the USA


I have not used it yet but when i do i can give some feed back.I also ordered there Motor Cool that reduces engine heat up to 57 degrees. The motor cool claims it also reduces radiator water temps by 7 degrees.

 

Wondering if painting the backside of the side panels with silver header spray paint wouldn't prevent panel and maybe seat damage?

 

i finally said frig it and put some water wetter in. Only product like that i could find in a store around here and it was fairly cheap.Dont like ordering online that much.Didn't empty all the antifreeze either cause i dont want to change it all againtwice a year. So i warmed the bike up and drained what i could of the top of the rad and from the overflow (1/2 liter),put almost 3 oz of ww in and the rest water. Drove all weekend with 1 pretty hot day and it seemed like the fan was on less cause i forgot all about it before long, but i didnt get any real proof of anything. Come winter i can do any tweakin on top again if needed. Kinda wanted to try engine ice but it cost 4x as much (2 x1.8 liter jugs)and had to order it and it might not do any different.

 

I thought this might be helpful . It isan article fromMotocross Action Magazine.





THE SECRET WORLD OF RADIATOR COOLANT

(11/16/2001)

Motocross tuners work at a 170-degree coefficient. That's the temperature at which a motor can efficiently churn out the most horsepower for the longest period of time. Easy to achieve inside a dyno room, but impossible to control on a track. There are too many factors to account for. It could be 102 degrees in the shade. Mud could clog the radiator. Deep loam could bog the engine down. All in all, if your engine temp begins to climb above 170-degrees it is shortening its lifespan.



QUESTION ONE: HOW DOES A RADIATOR WORK?


The cooling system uses water to sap heat from the cylinder. The heated water is transferred into the radiator's aluminum vanes where its heat can be radiated into the air. As soon as the air has absorbed the heat, the cooled water is sent back to the hot engine to continue the revolving process.

Manufacturers design the cooling system so that the internal thermostat-the restriction created by the speed of the water pump, hoses and internal plumbing-keeps the engine running at an optimum temperature.

It is important to keep your radiators clean and the coolant fresh to help this system work properly. Check the radiator, mounting bolts, hoses, clamps and brackets after each moto. The radiator should float on its rubber mounts without directly contacting the pipe, tank or frame. Inspect to insure that there are no leaks, crimps or cracks in the hoses. Also check for leaks at the water pump cover, radiator cap or around the cylinder.



QUESTION TWO: CAN YOU
CLEAN A RADIATOR?


Yes. It's easy to clean the exterior of a radiator with a pressure washer (or you can resort to good old elbow grease). If you find dirt between the radiator fins, remove the front louvers and radiator shrouds. Take a soft bristled brush and skim the dirt off. If the radiators are packed with mud, use water first to splash off as much muck as possible.

Be careful. The soft, paper-thin fins can be easily bent. Smashing the fins closed restricts air flow just like plugging it with dirt.



QUESTION THREE: HOW DO YOU CHECK THE WATER?


By removing the radiator cap and looking inside. If the fluid level has dropped, start looking for the leak. If no obvious signs of a coolant leak are found, it's possible that the engine overheated. Think back at how the bike ran. Was it just as fast as ever? Did it lose power halfway through the moto? Was it detonating? Did you smell the sweet odor of burnt coolant? When you dove into the hairpin, were you surrounded by a cloud of steam? Check the exit area of the radiator overflow tube. Has burnt coolant sprayed out towards the back of the bike? If you answered yes to any of these questions, you have a major leak.



QUESTION FOUR: CAN THE
RADIATOR CAP GO BAD?


Yes. Since the boiling point of water is higher when pressurized, the radiator cap keeps the coolant under pressure. If you think your bike has a cooling problem, the next step is to inspect the cap's O-rings and gaskets for cracks. A broken gasket means the cap can release hot coolant out of the overflow (where it exits as steam). Even if no broken gaskets are found, the radiator cap can be faulty.



QUESTION FIVE: WHAT ARE THE MAIN CAUSES OF OVERHEATING?


The list is long. A faulty impeller, coolant blockage, lean jetting, thrashed top end, bad coolant or a blown head gasket can all cause steam to be pumped out of the radiator overflow hose (add a blown base gasket to that list if you're aboard an intercooled TM.)

Starting from the top, anything that impedes the speed at which the coolant flows through the radiator will cause it to overheat. Additionally, old, contaminated coolant can have such a low boiling point that it will spew out of the overflow when the engine is used hard. Finally, a blown head gasket can leak exhaust gases into the coolant and pressurize the system so much it triggers the radiator cap's blow-off.



QUESTION SIX: ARE THERE
TRACK-SIDE FIXES?


If your water level is very low, but you haven't found any obvious signs of leakage, make the call to race the next moto by how far you estimate the coolant level has dropped. As a rule of thumb, if you can't see any coolant in the radiator you have big trouble. If the level has only dropped to the top of the inner core, the day can still be salvaged. Fill it back up and go to the line, but play it safe by borrowing a radiator cap from a buddy for the second moto.



QUESTION SEVEN: CAN COOLANT SYSTEMS BE CHECKED?


You bet! Snap On sells a coolant system pressure tester. The Snap On cap replaces the OEM radiator cap. Snap On uses a hand pump to inflate the system to the maximum pressure listed on the radiator cap. If there is a fault in the system, coolant will leak from wherever the fault is. If fluid comes out the overflow before reaching the blow-off pressure, the radiator cap is bad. If the coolant system holds the maximum pressure for 10 minutes you're fine. A good race shop should have a cooling system pressure tester.



QUESTION EIGHT: HOW OFTEN SHOULD COOLANT BE CHANGED?


Coolant should be replenished as frequently as gear oil (at least once a month).



QUESTION NINE: DOES
COOLANT WEAR OUT?


Yes. Running fluid through a metal-based system strips impurities off the surface. These impurities are similar to the harsh minerals and corrosives found in tap water. Your engine's water pump impeller forcefully spins the polluted fluid and scrapes the corrosives throughout the system. If left unchecked, the impurities will deteriorate the coolant's rust inhibitors and cause the radiator, water pump and coolant channels to corrode. A corrosive buildup places a barrier between the water and the cylinder it is trying to cool. Cooling efficiency can be lost.



QUESTION TEN: SHOULD I USE SPECIAL COOLANTS?


Yes. Most coolants use ethylene glycol as the main ingredient. This alcohol-based fluid can raise the 212-degree boiling point of plain water by as much as 60 degrees. A coolant is also called an antifreeze because it drops the freezing point down to as much as minus 80 degrees. Inhibitors are also added to coolants to control corrosion. Silicates aid in the lubrication of water pump seals. De-foamers maintain the consistency of the coolant as it's being whirled around by the impeller.



QUESTION 11: CAN I USE
TAP WATER?


You can, but it would be wrong (in a Nixonian sense). Distilled water is actually steam water. Boiling forces the impure sediments to the bottom, while the steam vapor is collected. The liquid is collected as vapor and is the purest form of water you can buy. By using distilled water you eliminate the impurities and hardness that scrapes, scars and corrodes the cooling system.



QUESTION 12: WHY DOESN'T MY TRUCK USE DISTILLED WATER?


Your truck has a massive cooling volume with large hoses, ports, cores and channels. The auto builder designed the system with the idea that there would be a degree of corrosive contamination. You can use tap water in your truck without fear.



QUESTION 13: WHAT IS
MAXIMA COOLANOL?


Maxima Coolanol coolant is premixed with demineralized water mostly for user convenience (the impurities are removed from tap water using a reverse-osmosis deionizing process). Besides an additional anti-foam and water pump lubricant, Maxima adds a surfactant that improves the coolant's heat absorbing abilities. Maxima Coolanol has a fluorescent green color.



QUESTION 14: WHAT IS A
SURFACTANT?


A surfactant is a solute which reduces the surface tension of fluid. Reducing surface tension makes water cling tighter against the surface it's trying to cool, thus improving heat transfer.
You can make your own surfactant by squirting a few shots of liquid dishwasher soap into a radiator filled with distilled water. The slippery, soapy solution breaks surface tension and will help your homemade coolant transfer heat better. That is until the temperature climbs upwards of 200-degrees. The surfactants that Maxima uses might be soap-like, but they are designed for the high temperatures of motocross use.



QUESTION 15: WHAT IS
ENGINE ICE?


Engine Ice is a premixed coolant, but they claim to up the ante by mixing a propylene glycol with deionized water. Engine Ice says that their deionizing process removes more harmful minerals and chemicals than is possible through distillation. The synthetic-based propylene glycol is claimed to be more efficient at dissipating heat. Engine Ice has an aqua-blue color.



QUESTION 16: ENGINE ICE
OR COOLANOL?


Anyone would be remiss to claim that propylene glycol (Engine Ice) is superior to ethylene glycol (Maxima) or vice versa. As many studies as you can find claiming superior test results for one, you can find just as many studies supporting the other.

The deionizing process removes positive, harsh particulates by filtering out the charged ions. There is no scientific data supporting that deionized water has less bicarbonates (magnesium, calcium or iron) than distilled water. Some automotive coolants have more abrasives than are good for motorcycle water pumps.
As a rule of thumb, Maxima and Engine Ice are both better than water. If you don't use a motocross-specific coolant, shop for an automotive product with a low silicate and phosphate-free content. Check that the coolant is compatible with all metals including aluminum and magnesium. Any coolant should be mixed 50/50 with deionized or distilled water.



QUESTION 17: WHAT IS
WATERWETTER?


Manufactured by Red Line, this pinkish-red surfactant can be added to coolant or plain water to reduce surface tension. Additional ingredients improve the coolant's ability to be attracted to and cling against hot surfaces, also improving heat transfer. While it includes water pump lubricant, anti-cavitation and anti-corrosive additives, it does not raise the boiling point of water (like Maxima Coolanol or Engine Ice). The idea behind WaterWetter is to improve cooling properties and lower the operating temperature. Four ounces of WaterWetter is enough to treat a gallon of water and coolant.

WaterWetter has become extremely popular with the factory teams. Factory mechanics support Red Line's claim that a WaterWetter mixed with distilled water runs up to 5 degrees cooler than water and glycol coolant mixes.



QUESTION 18: WHAT'S ALL
THAT BUILDUP?


When you peer inside your radiator, do you see shiny alloy cores or scales and barnacles? If you answered yes to the latter, your radiator should be flushed.

It's possible to clean the cooling system by operating the engine and running a Windex, Simple Green or vinegar-and-water solution through it. But, to guarantee that all the buildup is removed, it's necessary to disassemble the cooling components. You should clean the radiator hoses and inlet and outlet spigots with a soft bottle brush. Also, unscrew the water pump cover and remove the buildup inside it.

Once you are ready to clean your aluminum radiator, you will need to cap the cooling hose spigots and fill the radiator with Windex, Simple Green or vinegar. Agitate it like crazy and dump. Stick a garden hose in the radiator cap hole and flush the system with clean water.

If that doesn't get rid of the scaling, resort to an automotive radiator flush. Do not run automotive flush through the cooling system by operating the motor.



QUESTION 19: CAN A LEAKY
RADIATOR BE FIXED?


Yes, but it depends on the quality of your local radiator repair shop. Since motorcycle radiators are aluminum, most automotive shops are wary of them. Most shops, however, can successfully weld a cracked tank or spigot, but they will have little success repairing damaged cores.

The best place to have an aluminum radiator repaired is at a specialized shop. Try Myler's at (800) 367-7699; they offer one-day service (although they are in Utah) and have a good reputation with motorcycle owners.
Radiators are very expensive, but sometimes you have to bite the bullet.



QUESTION 21: DO RADIATOR GUARDS HELP?


No. Anything that obstructs the flow of air to the fins of the radiator is bad for cooling. The factory teams often modify the stock plastic guards to allow more air in. Most heavy-duty aluminum aftermarket radiator guards reduce air flow and can raise engine temperature as much as 10 degrees. Not good. If you are worried about the life of your engine, as opposed to the life of the radiators, do not mount obstructive radiator guards.

 

I don't know if this helps or not, but on another thread regarding octane ratings to use in the Outty's, it was explained that they only need regular fuel. My dealer recommended premium, but the tech explanation indicated that higher octane wouldn't really improve performance over regular, but WOULD raise temperatures. I had been using premium fuel and had some overheating problems in my 800 and my wife's 650XT, so I am not using premium anymore to see if that helps too.

 

That is so true. The pistons are made to run regular fuel and are machined for that octance level and compression.