Schmed613, Heat expansion and Vacuum. This system is designed so that air doesn't enter and the radiator cap allows coolant to pass as the systems heat is causing coolant to expand, the expansion fills the overflow bottle as necessary and when the system cools down, it in return creates vacuum drawing the coolant back into the radiator, SALUTE!

 

I think it wise that I point out one key thing about mounting the bottle lower than the unit........This design can in essence exhaust air in the system if freshly topped off because of this very air tight design but it becomes increasingly harder for the system to exhaust this air if any is trapped and the bottle is installed extremely low because if there isn't enough coolant to fill the system and or the system isn't being pushed to it's limits say during the winter months the vacuum could fail. Like drinking through a straw and trying to scavenge the very last bit of liquid out of the glass.

With this being said, it is highly important that riders not focus on the bottle as their determination of a properly topped off system. Checking the radiator itself is always recommended over the "bottles between minimum and max so it's good" theory. A completely topped off system can draw coolant from a bottle below but if there isn't enough in the system it could fail causing internal evaporation and the overflow still be full......SALUTE!

Edit; It's also fare to say, you might need a larger overflow bottle the lower you decide to place it due to it being necessary to keep a positive feed in the overflow line from the bottle. This would ensure at an extreme distance below the radiator that the coolant in the line wasn't able to force the level in the bottle to rise and an air pocket be created in the line breaking the suction/vacuum.

 

That is not technically an overflow tank it is technically called a surge tank and is a sealed unit except for the exhausting of fluids out of it. it cannot suck air back in to the system if it's not in there to begin with. Impossible.

 

MUDDINMIKE, actually wrong, if the system where to purge itself due to overheating and the bottle being to low without a adequate sized bottle to create back pressure in the line, the gases created during over heating could then create an air pocket per say. It's harder to create if the bottle is level or above the radiator but if below and not sized accordingly it is indeed possible. SALUTE!

Maybe I should clarify, you're correct in that it can't suck air but in this case it can not suck coolant back is the point. (the Radiator)

 

Ok well I didn't want to change the bottle so.....
If you mean purge itself meaning boiling over I believe if I don't try to drive a long distance in limp mode that shouldn't happen. With the rad relocated that shouldn't happen anyway.
It's going to be fun filling the system by the looks of it.
How are you's filling your systems with no cap in the rads when relocated ??

 

I believe it's actually an expansion tank really no?

 

Schmed613, No, it is not an expansion tank, correct. An expansion tank holds extra liquid/fluid and so forth with the aid of pressure to lengthen the operating time of said substance before a pump has to then be run to bring the system back to it's designating operating pressure. An expansion tank cuts down on a pumps operation/how many times it has to be run to sustain a pressure. SALUTE!

 

All bets are off once you overheat. if you do not overheat,that surge tank could be anywhere high or low in the system it doesn't matter.

 

All bets are off once you overheat. if you do not overheat that surge tank could be anywhere high or low in the system it doesn't matter.

Overheat as in boil over? It's only happened once in two yrs and the rad was caked so I'm sure I should be good or willing to take the chance ! And IF I do boil over I have to " burp" the system from high point and drive no further I presume would be the bets are off part eh

 

Ok so I'm leaning on moving the bottle somewhere where rad was then. I'll try to keep it high as I can.
Man now I wish I got a kit that relocates the bottle too sort of !!

 

Schmed613, what kit did you get?

 

Thanks guys. This is a huge help.

 

You will save a lot of headache if you beg, borrow or buy one of these to fill the system

 

Hehehe maybe.... it's 200 before tax. I'll check around I may be able to borrow one

 

Rubber down customs. It's sitting too low as is and hitting my snorkels so they are making some brackets that are taller. Apparently they used to be made taller but people complained so the lowered the profile so to speak. Then I email them asking for taller side brackets !!

 

 

View attachment 69098

Schmed613, pictures are worth a thousand words. I see your dilemma..., SALUTE!

 

 

Most good mechanics will have one

 

Yes, all you need is an air line to create a vacuum once the system is attached. Less than 30 seconds, your done. It will even check for leaks.

 

2016 g2 570

 

I saw the two-up seat in the picture and instantaneously pictured a 1000......assumption and attention to detail, complacency got me this time! SALUTE!

 

And the over flow tube from bottle only gets activated when pressure builds in bottle and the cap allows it?

 

Yes, if the levels are correct in the bottle it will push some fluid in when hot and draw it back into the rad and motor as the bike cools.
When you first fill it it's probably going to be too full if you use that system I showed you. After a few runs and cools it will burp some fluid out so just keep an eye on it.

 

$200 getting one tomorrow. So your saying the tool will fill my overflow bottle full, then after a few rips the extra fluid will be pushed out the overflow? And air will enter the overflow tube leaving my bottle somewhere close to recommended levels? Same if my bottle is below the rad ?
It's a 2016 if this matters.

 

Having the bottle out of the pod will surely give me room for the snorkel tubes. It was pretty easy to remove. One more step done.

 

Does the xmr have a piece that replaces the top plastic that the rad was mounted too? Without the rad existing plastic just flops around.

 

Schmed613, XMR cavity; SALUTE!

 

Looks like you can remove it. I think it was just an air dam.
You are lookin at the one with the extra long bolts added, yea?

 

Yes that one.

 

Thanks common. Looks like there's a few difference ms from the 2016. Like the rad hoses both make it past the front shocks on the right side. I can't quite see from your pics up under the hood where I'm looking.

 

Schmed613, better shots, SALUTE!

 

Thanks common and muddinmike it's awesome to be able to bounce things off people and pick your brains!
It does appear there's a plastic there on xmr. Which is good once I find the part number because that's where my fuses are relocated. Or I secure existing piece better....

 

These Outlanders are very finicky as to where the fluid likes to adjust itself in the bottle, as long as you're not sucking air or pushing too much fluid out it will self-regulate after a few days of hot/ cool down runs.

 

The biggest advantage to using that system is to use it correctly so read the instructions. Once you get the vacuum pulled on it and put the hose into the fluid, it's imperative that you have fluid in the intake hose so as not to pull any air in when you're drawing fluid in. that way you have no air pockets left in the motor, hoses or tank. That is the most important thing to master is not drawing any air in when you switch to the fluid fil from vacuum. any questions, just ask, good luck.