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New G2 Outlander 850 owner and a few questions about noises

3.4K views 40 replies 15 participants last post by  HpLander  
#1 ·
Hello everyone. I am a 2024 brand new new Can Am 850 g2 outlander owner with a few questions about all the noises this machine makes. I read that most or all are normal but can I get an opinion on my machines noises?

Rear end howling, very loud!
Squealing noise, I guess from CVT??? More noise as it heats up, no noise cold. It used to be in N/P but now its in every gear.
When starting hot, it seems to make a quick thump thump thump noise from front of engine (valves, pistons)? Then it goes away.

Lastly it hates going into all gear without rocking, can the rod be adjusted like some show on YT or will that not help? Anything else I can do?

And boy howdy does the thing like to run hot. Going up logging roads it is at 205f constantly. Assuming OK?
 
#4 ·
Take it to a trusted mechanic and get the squealing and howling checked out.
I have had to rock my machine to get it into gear since day one on my 23 outlander 570 G2, I changed the shift arm base bracket from plastic to billet and it seemed to help a little but didn't fix the issue all together. Either way you should upgrade that bc they are known to break after a while. My part # was 707000971, could be the same for you.
I test drove a 25 outlander 1000 and they have fix that issue now.
 
#5 ·
1st off, welcome to the site.

If it's still under warranty take it back to the dealer and have him check out those issues.

One of the things that worked form me on the shifting issue, was to clean and grease the 1-way bearing or to replace it. Afterwards, mine shifted like butter.
 
#9 ·
can the rod be adjusted like some show on YT or will that not help?
Making sure that the shifter rod is properly adjusted will only help shifting. A poorly adjusted rod will make shifting worse. Chances are that you will still have to get used to humping the ole girl into gear.
I bought a metal shifter bracket to replace the plastic one but then decided against installing it. It is a natural reaction for us when the shifter gets stubborn to push harder on the lever. Is it better to break the plastic bracket or tear a metal shifter bracket out of the airbox?
It seems better to me that we should avoid over stressing the shifter mechanism by using the humping technique (as irritating as it might be) to best advantage.

And boy howdy does the thing like to run hot. Going up logging roads it is at 205f constantly. Assuming OK?
Many Outlanders seem to run hot. Not a problem as long as the rad fan kicks in when it is supposed to. Do you ever hear the fan kick in?
If it gets too warm for comfort installing a manual rad fan switch will allow you to cool things down at will.
 
#19 ·
Making sure that the shifter rod is properly adjusted will only help shifting. A poorly adjusted rod will make shifting worse. Chances are that you will still have to get used to humping the ole girl into gear.
I bought a metal shifter bracket to replace the plastic one but then decided against installing it. It is a natural reaction for us when the shifter gets stubborn to push harder on the lever. Is it better to break the plastic bracket or tear a metal shifter bracket out of the airbox?
It seems better to me that we should avoid over stressing the shifter mechanism by using the humping technique (as irritating as it might be) to best advantage.


Many Outlanders seem to run hot. Not a problem as long as the rad fan kicks in when it is supposed to. Do you ever hear the fan kick in?
If it gets too warm for comfort installing a manual rad fan switch will allow you to cool things down at will.
Regarding the shifter bracket, most of the failures that I've seen in person and read about online do more damage to the airbox when the plastic bracket brakes. It tends to crack or completely rip a hole in the airbox where it's mounted. And the aluminum one doesn't break and doesn't tend to pull off of the air box when you are shifting hard. Like they say if you're forcing the shifter hard enough to rip the aluminum one off of the airbox then you're obviously the problem not the shifter because there's no reason to be pushing that hard. But you don't need to push that hard to break the plastic one and when it breaks that's when it does the damage to the air box. That's why I typically the aluminum bracket is the superior choice and should have been there straight from factory.
 
#10 ·
I am going to take it in and try to get a reservation to have it worked on. These shops are busy. Only one I would take it to here.

The squealing is getting much louder. Like an old pick up truck with a slipping fan belt. The rear end/tranny howl is louder then the engine going down the road. UGH! I have a sinking feeling I made the wrong choice buying a very expensive quad. I would not be able to sell this with these noises, no one would buy it. If I trade it in on a Grizzly I would lose 5-6k in the deal. I wanted to buy a Griz and my wife talked me into the canam. Should have went with my gut!

Coming from a Honda, that made ZERO noises I am totally freaked out about this. And now I learn the warranty is only 6 months. Holy crap that was something the dealer failed to mention. Honda had a 1 year warranty and up to 5 could be bought. The can-am will sit all winter so I may get a couple hundred miles on this before the warranty expires.

I am so frustrated right now for buying the wrong machine. The quad has to be hot for all these sounds to reproduce so the dealer letting it idle in the parking lot and then saying "its normal" is what I am expecting to happen.

How do I reproduce the "hot" noise issues at the dealer? Ride it up the mountain and video the noises?

Help!
 
#15 ·
So the dealer has a 24 Griz NEW old stock for 9800. He will give me 9k trade-in on my 1 week old Outlander (I paid 11.5k + fees) OR, I can buy a 5 year warranty on the Outlander for 2k. One way Im covered for 5 years the other way Im done with the headache and 1 year warranty on Griz.
 
#17 ·
#1, I wouldn't put up with any **** from any dealership if I bought a brand new machine and it had problems right off the floor. If it only makes noises hot then run it around the parking lot and get it hot! Can am is a good machine, get it fixed and it will treat you well. Mine is a 2023 with 350hrs and 2110 miles, has treated me well with the stuff I put it through...
 
#18 ·
The sticky gear change can be fixed and the dealer should do this. Sounds like your belt etc need a check over by the dealer to resolve any issues. I have an old 07 650 and a 2012 650 I got when I wanted power steering. The 07 shifts better than the newer one after my dealer serviced it so your quad just needs checking over and lubricating now it's had a little use. My 07 has been to hell and back, overheated multiple times with clogged up radiator in mud, run into by an out of control 2 wheel trail rider. It's been such a faithful old girl I kept it even after getting the newer one and still use it. In the colonies ( NZ ) we don't upgrade every year like many I read about on this site and tend to get huge miles out of our quads and SXS's. Canam's have really taken off here, especially in the farming which used to be dominated by Honda's and they don't look after their quads too well. I would just get it serviced to resolve any issues. Probably something simple.
 
#20 ·
One of the things that worked form me on the shifting issue, was to clean and grease the 1-way bearing or to replace it.
Same here, and if they're not already I always remove the both inside seals on said bearings. Shifts smooth and clean for a good while anyway. Once I start having to do the Can Am hump to excess then I know its due for a bearing service of cleaning and regrease.
Just to note, since it was a month old (in 2014) I also removed the two springs/pucks (items # 22 & 23) from the one way system. But I'm about sure that makes zero difference in regards to shifting.
typically the aluminum bracket is the superior choice and should have been there straight from factory.
Completely agree! Especially so if you do much snow plowing...The time will come when ya wanna take your frustration out on it...
 
#21 · (Edited by Moderator)
OK I dropped the noisy pig off at the dealer this AM. Showed him 9 videos of every problem. Said they were all normal. Did not write any of my concerns on the paperwork. Not very hopeful how this is going to turn out.

I have a backup appt. at a much larger and staffed dealer for July 11. If this clown show doesnt fix the machine I will bring it to the other.

Question...

I called around to get quotes for an extended warranty. Every single dealer "tried" to up-sell me on better insurance then the BRP OEM warranty. When doing more research online the 3rd party warranty companies suck!!! They are cheap because they deny all big clams, and probably the small ones too.

No way I am going to lose sleep over a 3rd party warranty.
The best quote I got was $800 for a 3 year BRP best. Is that a good price?

Also I used a search engine to try and find a Grizzly 25 camo EPS and only 3 within 500 miles of me (all are over 400 miles away). Crap!

Is the BRP warranty any good or do they deny claims as well?
Can I find it cheaper?
 
#22 ·
OK I dropped the noisy pig off at the dealer this AM. Showed him 9 videos of every problem. Said they were all normal. Did not write any of my concerns on the paperwork. Not very hopeful how this is going to turn out.

I have a backup appt. at a much larger and staffed dealer for July 11. If this clown show doesn't fix the machine I will bring it to the other.

Question...

I called around to get quotes for an extended warranty. Every single dealer "tried" to up-sell me on better insurance then the BRP OEM warranty. When doing more research online the 3rd party warranty companies suck!!! They are cheap because they deny all big clams, and probably the small ones too.

No F'ing way I am going to lose sleep over a 3rd party warranty.
The best quote I got was $800 for a 3 year BRP best. Is that a good price?

Also I used a search engine to try and find a Grizzly 25 camo EPS and only 3 within 500 miles of me (all are over 400 miles away). Crap!

Is the BRP warranty any good or do they deny claims as well?
Can I find it cheaper?
IMO all those extended warranty's suck. They are there to make money, not to make pay out's. But, for the warm and fuzzy feeling that your covered I would probably stick with the manufactor warranty and not some 3rd party warranty.

For $800 for 3 yrs, doesn't sound too bad. The last warranty that I got from BRP, I don't remember exactly what I paid, but I do recall that I only made one claim which they honored, but my brother who had the exact issue and didn't have any warranty took it in and they fixed his at not cost. So in hind sight, the only thing that I got out of that warranty was the "warm and fuzzy feeling" during the warranty period.
 
#25 ·
Just read this whole thread, made me think and go start my 850 up and let it run for 20 minutes and it makes all kinds of sounds. Rear end is quiet, but my exhaust is super load from the Looney Tune pipe. I think your bike is fine, get out and ride it. If something breaks its covered. Mine is a 2020 850 with 500 miles and I love riding it.
 
#27 · (Edited by Moderator)
Dealer just called, said no abnormal sounds. Said engine knock is clutch or timing chain. Said squeak is one way. Said rear end howl is straight gears, all normal.

I had them put 10-40 and drain the 0-40 out. I also listed the unit on Craigs for what I think I can get. Called around to about a dozen Yamaha dealers and found one that would give me 9k trade-in, most were 8k and one was 7k. So if I trade it in I am losing 6-8k dollars. Not good!. I will buy a warranty and ride it. I am leaving it up for sale and when it sells I will get a grizzly.

Spoke to the salesman and he was less then useless! Offered me, after much arm twisting, 7k for an atv he just sold me for much more, ! Told me to call service and work it out with them. So the dealer refuses to help in any way.
I am on my own.

From videos I watched the noises were coming from the one-way and the sprag clutch. Supposedly the VBX aftermarket one way bearing is good but the seals are crap. I don't know anything about the sprag. Do they make a better aftermarket for that?

Can I install a VBX and use OEM seals? It is really hard to shift right now.


I wish Honda would make a CVT unit instead of the herky-jerky DCT.
 
#28 ·
Sorry to hear that you are not happy with yours machine. I came to Can-Am from Polaris camp, both brands have their own things but Outlander serves my needs better, especially it has a real engine 😆🤣

Anyway, mine CVT howls too when in neutral, i did clean CVT and regreased one way bearing (with wrong grease, Redline CV-2) but nothing changed, still feels and sounds same.

Gear change, not so smooth and "one finger" usable as in 570 Polaris.
But i replaced the plastic mount to alloy one, changed gear oil to Amsoil 75W-140 and it has improved a bit. Some times it goes to "not this time bloke" mode and you need to do the "rain dance" 🤭 but still had improved slowly.

Yours is brand new like mine was, well mine was 50h old but anyway, i think it just needs a bit of hours and gear changes and then a fluid change.

Rear end noice, i have a spiral gears on rear diff so can not tell what is noisy and what is not. Front diff has straight cut on mine so when in 4wd it will make more whining noise on higher speeds.
 
#33 ·
In that video you said "it's gone away" so the knocking is in the video or no? It's REALLY hard to tell. Basically sounded normal to me but disclaimer it's so so hard for me to hear it through a video. Sorry. Good luck
 
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#35 ·
So normal is a rod knock sound that wasnt there when new but showed up after 10hrs. I hate to say it but BRP makes such crappy ATVs they have the whole planet brainwashed into thinking bad is normal.

This is brand new. Not 5 years old and beat to hell and back.

How can ANYONE not hear the horrible knocking at the start of this video???
Listen on headphones or a desktop not a phone with tweeters for speakers.

Noise from 06-10 seconds then goes away. Sounds like someone beating the handle of a screwdriver on a valve cover.

 
#40 ·
Listened with headphones, don’t hear anything wrong with it.


So normal is a rod knock sound that wasnt there when new but showed up after 10hrs. I hate to say it but BRP makes such crappy ATVs they have the whole planet brainwashed into thinking bad is normal.

This is brand new. Not 5 years old and beat to hell and back.

How can ANYONE not hear the horrible knocking at the start of this video???
Listen on headphones or a desktop not a phone with tweeters for speakers.

Noise from 06-10 seconds then goes away. Sounds like someone beating the handle of a screwdriver on a valve cover.
 
#36 ·
It seems you already have a bad taste in your mouth. If I were in your shoes , I'd cut my losses and get the Grizz . Did you ask the dealer for an oil sample so at least you had something to back up your feelings ?
I could have bought any bike I wanted but chose my 23 850 . This is my 3rd Can Am since 09 and I personally would never settle for 2nd best .
I ride them hard and take care of them .
When they break , I fix them and keep riding.
None of my machines have ever left me walking .
 
#39 ·
Bad tastes comes from second time in shop in 3 weeks. Bike is brand new.

I have owned probably 50 cars, trucks, street bikes, dirt biks, jet skis, snow machines, scooters etc. Never once did any of them sound like this machine. Not once!

At this point the quad is up for sale on craigs. Dealers won't give me anything on trade and I refuse to lose 7k in 3 weeks on a new bike. As soon as I get a buyer I'm gone! I have owned 4 quads and all were perfect without any engine knocks and drivetrain clunks. Yamaha and Honda have never let me down. Sorry I moved brands on so many levels right now.